EG has it
Temperamental Blinkers
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
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From: Southeast Missouri
Temperamental Blinkers
Here's the deal...sometimes I'll be going along and my blinkers will be working fine, then all of the sudden....nothing, they won't come on whatsoever. A few minutes later they will be working fine again or they will come on and before they click off they will quit working. Anyone else ever have this happen or know what to do to fix it???
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 307
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From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by captainpooby
Mine just did that and I put on the flashers (with blinker off) and turned them off then the blinkers worked.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Missouri
Weird huh? I have a friend that said a couple of the vettes he's had did the same thing and he thinks it was something to do with the switch under the dash somewhere. Can anyone that knows for sure help us out?
Supporting Tuner
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Posts: 51,896
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From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Change your hazard light switch. This is a known issue. 
Supporting Tuner
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51,896
Likes: 39
From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by captainpooby
The switch in the dash or the relay?
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Burning Brakes
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From: Hutschenhausen
The one in the dash. Just did mine.
Remove center console:
1. Use small screwdriver to pop out plastic plugs in the rear of the center compartment. 10MM nuts underneath - take out.
2. Pop off round plastic AH panel in front of console cushion - pull up from the back - two more 10MM bolts underneath.
3. Pop off the 2"x2" vent cover left of the key - pry from each side - and there is a #5 torx underneath. Remove ashtray - another #5 torx in there and next to the cig lighter.
4. Lift and scoot back the rearmost console (part with compartment) and move aside the HA (half-moon shaped) panel in front - the radio surround console should now pull back from around the radio and lift up from the rear - as you are doing so reach under the shifter and push up the shift boot so it pops out of the console piece.
5. Unplug the sensor wire left of the key and twist/remove the radio surround.
Drivers knee bolster:
- Pop off the trunk catch switch from the sides - #5 torx underneath. Undo the two bolts on the extreme bottom of the panel - 8MM I believe (majority of C5 trim fastners are these black 8MM) - this panel then snaps down from the bottom and pulls out toward the driver
Passenger area:
- Remove 4 8mm fastners from top glove box area - may be 5 I can't remember. One more 8mm fastner around near the door hinge in a recessed hole.
Back to center console:
- Remove two #5 Torx screws from pass side of radio/AC controls holding the dash down to the alum panel. I think there may be one or two above the radio as well.
Gage area
- Two more #5 torx screws - these are shorter than the rest
Final screws:
1. Pull straight towards the rear on the two A-pillar plastic trim pieces and they will pull right off. On top of the dash where the A-pillar plastic was touching, two more 8MM fastners.
2. Snap off the defrost grille, twist and pull out the two bulb-like sensors. Two more 8MM fastners under there.
Ready? Lift up on the front of the dash around the airbag and snap it loose - there is a tab on each side of the square airbag that will release when you pull out on the dash. the dash pulls out toward the rear about 2" then you can lift it off - as you are doing so follow the wires connecting the hazard switch down to the ignition area - you'll see another plug down there you can undo, then lift the entire dash pad out.
Not done yet! Take off 4 more fastners to release the AC ducts from the dash pad. Then three more fastners to release the middle AC vent from the dash pad.
Now you can pull of the middle vent and see the Hazard switch - push down on the tabs (top and bottom) and the switch pulls out rearward.
Put in your new switch and put it all back together!!
About 4 hours for me to do. Got to be the worst switch to get to on the entire car so buy a new one and enjoy your turn signals. I did not have any for two years, now I'm signaling away....
HTH
Smash
Remove center console:
1. Use small screwdriver to pop out plastic plugs in the rear of the center compartment. 10MM nuts underneath - take out.
2. Pop off round plastic AH panel in front of console cushion - pull up from the back - two more 10MM bolts underneath.
3. Pop off the 2"x2" vent cover left of the key - pry from each side - and there is a #5 torx underneath. Remove ashtray - another #5 torx in there and next to the cig lighter.
4. Lift and scoot back the rearmost console (part with compartment) and move aside the HA (half-moon shaped) panel in front - the radio surround console should now pull back from around the radio and lift up from the rear - as you are doing so reach under the shifter and push up the shift boot so it pops out of the console piece.
5. Unplug the sensor wire left of the key and twist/remove the radio surround.
Drivers knee bolster:
- Pop off the trunk catch switch from the sides - #5 torx underneath. Undo the two bolts on the extreme bottom of the panel - 8MM I believe (majority of C5 trim fastners are these black 8MM) - this panel then snaps down from the bottom and pulls out toward the driver
Passenger area:
- Remove 4 8mm fastners from top glove box area - may be 5 I can't remember. One more 8mm fastner around near the door hinge in a recessed hole.
Back to center console:
- Remove two #5 Torx screws from pass side of radio/AC controls holding the dash down to the alum panel. I think there may be one or two above the radio as well.
Gage area
- Two more #5 torx screws - these are shorter than the rest
Final screws:
1. Pull straight towards the rear on the two A-pillar plastic trim pieces and they will pull right off. On top of the dash where the A-pillar plastic was touching, two more 8MM fastners.
2. Snap off the defrost grille, twist and pull out the two bulb-like sensors. Two more 8MM fastners under there.
Ready? Lift up on the front of the dash around the airbag and snap it loose - there is a tab on each side of the square airbag that will release when you pull out on the dash. the dash pulls out toward the rear about 2" then you can lift it off - as you are doing so follow the wires connecting the hazard switch down to the ignition area - you'll see another plug down there you can undo, then lift the entire dash pad out.
Not done yet! Take off 4 more fastners to release the AC ducts from the dash pad. Then three more fastners to release the middle AC vent from the dash pad.
Now you can pull of the middle vent and see the Hazard switch - push down on the tabs (top and bottom) and the switch pulls out rearward.
Put in your new switch and put it all back together!!
About 4 hours for me to do. Got to be the worst switch to get to on the entire car so buy a new one and enjoy your turn signals. I did not have any for two years, now I'm signaling away....
HTH
Smash
Supporting Tuner
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51,896
Likes: 39
From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
You do not have to take out the dash pad. There is a way around that.
Remove center console
Remove Radio fascia
Remove radio
Remove Hazard switch cover
Reach under green hazard switch and push retaining tab up with a screwdriver from below
With a dull chisel, place it against the right side of the hazard switch
Strike the chisel smartly - the hazard switch will pop backwards
Fish it out through the radio opening
Disconnect old one and connect new one
Push new one back in from behind
Reassemble radio, center console and radio fascia
Total time about 40 minutes
Remove center console
Remove Radio fascia
Remove radio
Remove Hazard switch cover
Reach under green hazard switch and push retaining tab up with a screwdriver from below
With a dull chisel, place it against the right side of the hazard switch
Strike the chisel smartly - the hazard switch will pop backwards
Fish it out through the radio opening
Disconnect old one and connect new one
Push new one back in from behind
Reassemble radio, center console and radio fascia
Total time about 40 minutes
It was originally posted by Stephen Levine:
---------------------------------------------
The emergency flash button -- guess what, the flasher unit is immediately behind it!
Here's the sucker once it's out. The black push button on the front just pulls off away from the dashboard.
The real GM manual instructions have you pull your whole dash off to remove this relay. I did mine with a brute force alternative. Take off the trim panel that goes around your radio and A/C and take off the knee panel above the pedals (see these directions -- http://www.vetteessentials.com/inst...ezel_howto.html).
You'll also need to pull the radio. To do this, remove the two hex-head screws shown in the following picture, located in the light metal colored tabs extending left and right from the radio. Then pull the radio toward you.
Next, you'll need to unplug the connectors from the back of the radio. They have a button to push with your thumb, which is demonstrated in the following picture, but of course you'll be doing this when the plug is still in the back of the radio.
Here’s the other connectors, which also have the same type of push button, as shown in this picture after they have been disconnected from the rear of the radio.
Once you have the trim pieces off and the radio out, you'll see the underside of the unit which has a tab that you can push upward -- there's also such a tab on top, but you can't get to it unless you pull the dash. In the second picture above, you can see the top tab. Push on the bottom one of those tabs with a screwdriver, and at the same time give the front of the unit a whack (note -- this picture was taken only to demonstrate the technique, and actually is the new relay after I had put the radio back in). Use a punch or chisel, and keep it to the right so it is not pushing against the push-button mechanism.
If you hit it correctly, it'll slide toward the front of the car. Snake it down and here's what it'll look like:
A new one is about $40 from a dealer. Plug it in, snake it back up and clip it place, reverse your steps and you're done.
------------------------------------------
I followed his directions and found it extremely easy to replicate his steps. Good luck
---------------------------------------------
The emergency flash button -- guess what, the flasher unit is immediately behind it!
Here's the sucker once it's out. The black push button on the front just pulls off away from the dashboard.
The real GM manual instructions have you pull your whole dash off to remove this relay. I did mine with a brute force alternative. Take off the trim panel that goes around your radio and A/C and take off the knee panel above the pedals (see these directions -- http://www.vetteessentials.com/inst...ezel_howto.html).
You'll also need to pull the radio. To do this, remove the two hex-head screws shown in the following picture, located in the light metal colored tabs extending left and right from the radio. Then pull the radio toward you.
Next, you'll need to unplug the connectors from the back of the radio. They have a button to push with your thumb, which is demonstrated in the following picture, but of course you'll be doing this when the plug is still in the back of the radio.
Here’s the other connectors, which also have the same type of push button, as shown in this picture after they have been disconnected from the rear of the radio.
Once you have the trim pieces off and the radio out, you'll see the underside of the unit which has a tab that you can push upward -- there's also such a tab on top, but you can't get to it unless you pull the dash. In the second picture above, you can see the top tab. Push on the bottom one of those tabs with a screwdriver, and at the same time give the front of the unit a whack (note -- this picture was taken only to demonstrate the technique, and actually is the new relay after I had put the radio back in). Use a punch or chisel, and keep it to the right so it is not pushing against the push-button mechanism.
If you hit it correctly, it'll slide toward the front of the car. Snake it down and here's what it'll look like:
A new one is about $40 from a dealer. Plug it in, snake it back up and clip it place, reverse your steps and you're done.
------------------------------------------
I followed his directions and found it extremely easy to replicate his steps. Good luck
Last edited by EG@EnglandGreen; Jan 5, 2006 at 09:20 PM.
Supporting Tuner
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51,896
Likes: 39
From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by captainpooby
Cost for new switch? 
Last edited by EG@EnglandGreen; Jan 5, 2006 at 09:20 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 785
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From: Hutschenhausen
Yeah I read that EG - have you tried it? It broke the center dash vent surround real nicely but would not release the switch! I was all for it but forced into submission by my Y2K plastic. After taking it apart I saw how strong the switch plastic is compared to the dash vent surround - no wonder.
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
Supporting Tuner
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51,896
Likes: 39
From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by SmashF15C
Yeah I read that EG - have you tried it? It broke the center dash vent surround real nicely but would not release the switch! I was all for it but forced into submission by my Y2K plastic. After taking it apart I saw how strong the switch plastic is compared to the dash vent surround - no wonder.
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
Supporting Tuner
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 51,896
Likes: 39
From: ================== Houston, Texas www.englandgreen.com ================== Necessary Evil™ __________
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by SmashF15C
Yeah I read that EG - have you tried it? It broke the center dash vent surround real nicely but would not release the switch! I was all for it but forced into submission by my Y2K plastic. After taking it apart I saw how strong the switch plastic is compared to the dash vent surround - no wonder.
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
I suppose it's worth a try, may want to have some glue handy. I broke a few other interior pieces taking mine out, but hey gotta expect losses, right?
Smash
Cherish your Hopes...
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 13,074
Likes: 236
From: West Palm Beach FL
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by captainpooby
I have Hurst shifter coming. Sounds like the time to do both jobs.
I wonder if I can get Carmax to pay for the switch? I'ts barely a week old.
I wonder if I can get Carmax to pay for the switch? I'ts barely a week old.
..maybe Ill just clean my Hurst shifter
