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adjusted the car lower,,, doesnt seem to be that much lower really.... matched all the threads to the same... Is it a big deal if they arent all PERFECTLY the same amount of threads?
in the frount I just went until there was no space between the rubber boot and the metal... still iam just worried does this not have to be a exact science... also anyone with pics of what is should look like after mine seems high.
adjusted the car lower,,, doesnt seem to be that much lower really.... matched all the threads to the same... Is it a big deal if they arent all PERFECTLY the same amount of threads?
It isn't the number of threads, but the height that needs to be uniform. Mine ended up slightly different on each side. Ideally you want the left side just a bit higher to account for driver weight.
in the frount I just went until there was no space between the rubber boot and the metal... still iam just worried does this not have to be a exact science... also anyone with pics of what is should look like after mine seems high.
"rubber boot" What rubber boot? There was no rubber boot on my car in the front. What you do in the front is back the plastic spacer/bushing up into the threads in the spring (IIRC).
Technically, the correct way to adjust the ride heights is to balance the corner weights at the nominal desired ride height, which takes a set of scales and a perfectly level surface. For a car only street driven, this is not a big deal and I would not worry about it.
Changing the ride height will also change the wheel alignment, and at minimum the toe should be rechecked.
After removing the bolts from the front end, lowering rear with new bolts to -1.5. Pulled off jacks and it looked like a 4 x 4. The front gap must have been 5 inches between tire and fender.
A couple of miles and it will settle. I made adjustments on rear by measuring fender height. On mine, the bolt threads showing are different to keep fenders level.
As you probably have found out already there's a ton of threads on lowering. After reading probably every one of them, I started to compile notes on what I thought was pertinent before lowering my car. The following is an excerpt from a thread I kept. Not sure who the "author" is.
"If you measure on the frame rails, just in front of the jacking puck holes in front and just behind the rear jacking puck holes the difference should be 4-5mm or 1/4 to 3/8" higher in the rear. DO not measure to the center of the fenders, Body parts are NOT equal."