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I've been having a lot of trouble with my battery going dead, to begin with. Today I was driving home and I noticed that my radio would kind of go out all of a sudden (just for a split second). It would make kind of a scratchy/popping sound. When I looked down at it, I noticed that the clock was flickering, not completely going on and off but more fading in and out without completely going off. I then noticed that when I turned my blinker on, the MPH light, climate control, and radio would fade at the same time, just like the radio was doing. When I got home and shut the car off I had no juice whatsoever. I'm assuming that this is an alternator problem. Does anyone have any insight? I just put a brand new battery in this morning before all of this happened.
If it was your alternator, you would get a charging system fault warning on your DIC...you can test battery , you can test alternator...many places do both for free,,, You seem to have grounding issues...
Here is some of the best advice on electrical problem found in a Cr buy one of our resident experts in the field.,..Bill Curlee
Not only is he the guru of "Juice" he is a nice guy...Bill will walk you though this, and be your personal electrical mentor... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...al+information
Good Luck
Bill aka ET
Thanks for the info. I'll talk to Bill about it. I really don't think it's the battery because I've had about 5 different batteries in the past few months. The battery has a warranty on it and the first couple I got were actually bad batteries. I would put them in and nothing. But the others have been fine at first and after a couple weeks would be dead. I would charge them and they would keep going dead. So I would take them back figuring it was the battery. I don't think that's the case anymore. If anyone else can help, please do.
The very first thing that comes to mind and is the easiest thing to check would be the battery cables and connections. They frequently get loose and corrode causing all sort of funky things like that,
Remove both cables. I sprayed mine out with brake parts cleaner and then WD-40. I used a wire brush and got all of the corrosion off the cables and terminals and flushed them out again. Once they are clean, torque them in place using a torque wrenck to 11 ft /lbs.
You could also have a loose ground or power connect down at the starter. The main battery ground connection is on the engine block below #3 cylinder. Check for tight 12 VDC connections on the sarter solenoid.
There is a ground terminal on the frame just inboard of the battery. Follow the small ground wire on the battery cable down to the frame.
There is a very small chance that your battery could have a shorted cell. If all of the above mentioned solutions fail, consider that as a possibility.
My wife's Corvette had the same problems. I cleaned the positive terminal and retighted it. No more problems. The bolt was barely tight when I took it off. I couldn't believe it when I hook up everything and had no more problems.
I had just put the battery in this morning so im positive the cables were tight and clean. I am still leaning toward the alternator. I'm going to take it to a local shop tomorrow and have them test it. Hopefully, they will have some answers.
You said you changed the battery before this happened, right? Did it have a full charge? I see you've put in many batteries. You didn't perhaps test them before installing them in the car? That drains a lot of juice when you do that. A good alternator can be shot to hell rather quick if you don't install a fully charged battery. See if you can take the alterantor to the auto store and check it under load.
Also, put a charge on the battery and see what the DIC says. Just my $.02. Good luck
I would take the battery straight from the store and put it in my car, no testing. When I would go out and try to start it and it would be dead, I would take then charge it and usually the car still wouldn't start. It would just click, so I tried to jump it and it still wouldn't start. So then I assumed it was the battery. But every time I put a new battery in it, it does just fine for a few days (with the exception of today) and then dead again. I was sitting at a stoplight with my turn signal on today and watching it on the DIC and the voltage was all over the place....12-15 jumping around like crazy.
you should not have to charge a new battery when you buy it from the store . If it does not get a full charge from the alternator , it will slowly drain out , even if it's new . check your alternator , it is probably the voltage regulator that needs replaced . If you have an alternator rebuilt shop , most will do it as you wait .
you should not have to charge a new battery when you buy it from the store . If it does not get a full charge from the alternator , it will slowly drain out , even if it's new . check your alternator , it is probably the voltage regulator that needs replaced . If you have an alternator rebuilt shop , most will do it as you wait .
Or jsut go get a new one with a lifetime warranty. It casts a bit more but replacement is always free if you keep the receipt.
If you have a volt meter I would check the battery voltage before you try and start. It should be above 11.75 volts. Then start the car and re-check the voltage it should jump to around 14 volts. As long as the voltage goes up you know the alternator is doing it's job. But if the voltage stays the same this is indication that the alternator isn't putting out any voltage. You could also put the meter right on the alternator to see if you have an output voltage coming out but maybe not going anywhere. If that connection is bad this could be your problem. Keep us posted.
I took the alternator in this morning, had it tested, and the guy said it's working just fine. So there's one thing ruled out.
Jsut for peace of mind, put a good charge on the battery. Then make sure all your grounds are tight. Make sure the battery cables are tight but not over tightened. If the car runs and charges the battery problem solved. IF not, see if you can get a battery/charging/starting test done on the car. They cost less than $50 if you want to go that route. I personally like the test PepBoys does because I know how to use their equipment and I find it to be pretty much dead on.
If you have a volt meter I would check the battery voltage before you try and start. It should be above 11.75 volts. Then start the car and re-check the voltage it should jump to around 14 volts. As long as the voltage goes up you know the alternator is doing it's job. But if the voltage stays the same this is indication that the alternator isn't putting out any voltage. You could also put the meter right on the alternator to see if you have an output voltage coming out but maybe not going anywhere. If that connection is bad this could be your problem. Keep us posted.
Clearly something not completing a circuit - either high or low current flow. Solenoid maybe? With multiple grounding points all over the place, would tend to think something from the red + side no making it all the way thru - meeting some sort of resistance or lacking good connection somewhere - likley close from bat cable to next connection in-line - the starter? Not sure what path it takes.
There have been lots of guys here that have had their batteries leak, and cause all sorts of problems underneath the battery area. Worth checking this out. A load test on the battery and if that's OK and the alternator is OK. Well it's down to grounds and good connections on those. Do a search on grounds and you'll find lots of these. There are some big connectors on either side near the headlights. They are bolted to the frame. Open these up and see if there is corrosion in them. If so clean them out and see if this makes the difference. Keep us posted we would really like to know what the cause of your problems are. Good luck!
The thing that keeps getting me is that my battery is going dead every time. This is like the 6th battery I have put in it. I wouldn't think that a corroded ground would make my battery go dead, would it? The whole battery going dead thing is why I figured it was the alternator. Is the regulator inside the alternator on vettes?
The thing that keeps getting me is that my battery is going dead every time. This is like the 6th battery I have put in it. I wouldn't think that a corroded ground would make my battery go dead, would it? The whole battery going dead thing is why I figured it was the alternator. Is the regulator inside the alternator on vettes?
If it were mine, I'd probably run it by a Sears or Pep Boys or Autozone and see if they would test the electrical system including battery, alternator etc. I think they do it for free and maybe that will at least will get you closer to the problem. Good luck. I'm really interested in what this finally turns out to be.