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Help!! Stuck rear tire!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,386
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From: Just a little outside San Antonio, Texas
Help!! Stuck rear tire!
C5 Gen, I can't seem to be able to remove my right rear tire. Lefr rear, both front...no problem.Right rear? Problem!
Emergency brake is off, tranny is out of gear (neutral). Been banging on the inside of the wheel for 1/2 hour and it's not budging.
Any ideas?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Indiana
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Originally Posted by ArmyVette
Never mind! I got it. Guess I just needed to drink a beer first. And use a bigger hammer!!! 
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,386
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From: Just a little outside San Antonio, Texas
Originally Posted by MSD44
I have never heard of a wheel getting stuck on the bolts though!
I know when I was in college a buddy had this happen on his focus... but the first time I have heard this about a vette.
I know when I was in college a buddy had this happen on his focus... but the first time I have heard this about a vette.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,841
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
To those who do not have a clue about a car.... the ebrake has nothing what so ever to do with removing a tire or wheel....
there is plenty of clearance between the studs and the wheel holes...
the only thing holding the wheel are those five lugnuts..... although the back of the wheel can rust itself to the axle hub or rotor hat.... I would remove all of the lug nuts, and then slowly lower the car, as the wheel hits the ground it should break any rust.... the studs should be dead center of the wheel holes. once they hit the ground they will move off center.
there is plenty of clearance between the studs and the wheel holes...
the only thing holding the wheel are those five lugnuts..... although the back of the wheel can rust itself to the axle hub or rotor hat.... I would remove all of the lug nuts, and then slowly lower the car, as the wheel hits the ground it should break any rust.... the studs should be dead center of the wheel holes. once they hit the ground they will move off center.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
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From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
the other approach that I have routinely used is to loosen the lug nuts approx 1 turn. the back up the car 3-4 car lengths, slam on the brakes, drive forward 3-4 car lengths slam on the brakes. The torques on the wheel from the abrupt stops causes any rust formed between the back of the wheel and the hub to release and free the stuck wheel.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: MD
St. Jude Donor '11
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
To those who do not have a clue about a car.... the ebrake has nothing what so ever to do with removing a tire or wheel....
there is plenty of clearance between the studs and the wheel holes...
the only thing holding the wheel are those five lugnuts..... although the back of the wheel can rust itself to the axle hub or rotor hat.... I would remove all of the lug nuts, and then slowly lower the car, as the wheel hits the ground it should break any rust.... the studs should be dead center of the wheel holes. once they hit the ground they will move off center.
there is plenty of clearance between the studs and the wheel holes...
the only thing holding the wheel are those five lugnuts..... although the back of the wheel can rust itself to the axle hub or rotor hat.... I would remove all of the lug nuts, and then slowly lower the car, as the wheel hits the ground it should break any rust.... the studs should be dead center of the wheel holes. once they hit the ground they will move off center.
I'm not a rocket scientist, but I've had to fix alot of HUMMVs, 2 1/2s and LMTVs on the run. 13 1/2 years in the Army has made me very mechanically sound. 
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Gone
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St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
I would remove all of the lug nuts, and then slowly lower the car, as the wheel hits the ground it should break any rust.... the studs should be dead center of the wheel holes. once they hit the ground they will move off center.
You know this because as you noted, the lugs aren't supporting the wheels, only retaining them. Lowering the car's weight on the unretained wheels likely won't do a thing, since the wheel's center bore is still over the hub...which is exactly the place it is stuck.
This isn't a problem exclusive to any car make or model.
The stuck condition is caused by mounting aluminum wheels against steel hubs. Dissimilar metals in contact with one another cause rapid corrosion, and yes, often produce this problem.
A very light coat of anti-sieze spread around the center hub (Not the lugs) will prevent this from occuring again.
Last edited by Y2Kvert4me; Apr 11, 2006 at 11:33 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
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From: Western NY
Originally Posted by rws.1
the other approach that I have routinely used is to loosen the lug nuts approx 1 turn. the back up the car 3-4 car lengths, slam on the brakes, drive forward 3-4 car lengths slam on the brakes. The torques on the wheel from the abrupt stops causes any rust formed between the back of the wheel and the hub to release and free the stuck wheel.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 626
Likes: 4
From: Chambersburg PA
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
In theory, it's not a bad idea, but the wheels are hubcentric.
You know this because as you noted, the lugs aren't supporting the wheels, only retaining them. Lowering the car's weight on the unretained wheels likely won't do a thing, since the wheel's center bore is still over the hub...which is exactly the place it is stuck.
This isn't a problem exclusive to any car make or model.
The stuck condition is caused by mounting aluminum wheels against steel hubs. Dissimilar metals in contact with one another cause rapid corrosion, and yes, often produce this problem.
A very light coat of anti-sieze spread around the center hub (Not the lugs) will prevent this from occuring again.
You know this because as you noted, the lugs aren't supporting the wheels, only retaining them. Lowering the car's weight on the unretained wheels likely won't do a thing, since the wheel's center bore is still over the hub...which is exactly the place it is stuck.
This isn't a problem exclusive to any car make or model.
The stuck condition is caused by mounting aluminum wheels against steel hubs. Dissimilar metals in contact with one another cause rapid corrosion, and yes, often produce this problem.
A very light coat of anti-sieze spread around the center hub (Not the lugs) will prevent this from occuring again.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 25,058
Likes: 1,265
From: Virginia
St. Jude Donor '11
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
In theory, it's not a bad idea, but the wheels are hubcentric.
You know this because as you noted, the lugs aren't supporting the wheels, only retaining them. Lowering the car's weight on the unretained wheels likely won't do a thing, since the wheel's center bore is still over the hub...which is exactly the place it is stuck.
This isn't a problem exclusive to any car make or model.
The stuck condition is caused by mounting aluminum wheels against steel hubs. Dissimilar metals in contact with one another cause rapid corrosion, and yes, often produce this problem.
A very light coat of anti-sieze spread around the center hub (Not the lugs) will prevent this from occuring again.
You know this because as you noted, the lugs aren't supporting the wheels, only retaining them. Lowering the car's weight on the unretained wheels likely won't do a thing, since the wheel's center bore is still over the hub...which is exactly the place it is stuck.
This isn't a problem exclusive to any car make or model.
The stuck condition is caused by mounting aluminum wheels against steel hubs. Dissimilar metals in contact with one another cause rapid corrosion, and yes, often produce this problem.
A very light coat of anti-sieze spread around the center hub (Not the lugs) will prevent this from occuring again.
