[Z06] Asbestos pads vs Ceramic
Will braking performance be affected by switching from OEM (asbestos/fiberglass/whatever) to ceramic...for example, agressive braking in a rally course or hard braking on the streets?
Last edited by Z06 KOS; Apr 19, 2006 at 04:34 PM.
Asbestos pads have not been made since the 1950s and early 60s. That is what Drilled rotors were for, to out gas the asbestos gasses. and we all know that when asbestos gets into the lungs it does not come out and caused all kinds or lung problems.
Best bet is just wash the car more.
Had to clean EVERYTIME I drove it even if it was just a trip into town and back.
Changed to the ceramic pads and the dust problem went away.
In normal driving, I could not tell the diference in braking performance.
Pedal pressures and stopping distances seemed to be unchanged but there were no 'max performance' trials with the ceramic pads.
Overall, I'm MUCH happier with the ceramic pads than I was with the original pads.
This would be the first mod I would do if I bought one with the regular brake pads on it.
Will braking performance be affected by switching from OEM (asbestos/fiberglass/whatever) to ceramic...for example, agressive braking in a rally course or hard braking on the streets?
Ceramic for me, very little dust, best stopping car Ive ever owned (not my first vette even)
My buddy has the factory pads on his 03 with 12K and his fronts are dirty all of the time, comapred to mine with ceramics for 5K miles theres no campare. Spend the extra jack and get ceramics





Will braking performance be affected by switching from OEM (asbestos/fiberglass/whatever) to ceramic...for example, agressive braking in a rally course or hard braking on the streets?
I apologize for being this late in reply to your question.
I put drilled, slotted rotors on my wifes 99 coupe, along with ceramic pads.
i was not happy wit hthe ceramic pads, they made grinding noises and made the swept area on the rotors look crappy.....for about 400 miles.
After they "broke in", they became quiet and are great.
I don't track my cars (drag only) so I have not noticed any reduction in stopping power as compared to my Z06.
I can tell you that brake dust in almost non-existent with the ceramics, whereas the Z's front wheels looks like crap by the time I get it home after spray-washing it.
When I replace the pads and rotors on the Z, I will go wit hthe same setup as on our coupe (sportbrakes rotors and ceramic pads).
best regards -
mqqn
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
My only problem with my Yellow Z06 is that I spend more time washing than I do driving due to the brake dust.
Ceramic pad manufactures have different levels or amounts of ceramic material in their pad. There is no set amount min or max level of ceramic material for a brake pad to be called ceramic.
Most street or stock use pads have higher compesition of ceramic material and the pad apperars to be more tan / light brown then black or dark brown.
Carbotech pads are considered ceramic. Carbotech has severl different compounds of brake pads. track pads tend to be the XP10, XP11 and XP12s. Where as the XP8 or panther and panther plus are street pads.
PFC, Performance Friction Company's brake pad are also consideded ceramic. Carbon Ceramic vs carbon metailic.
Brake pad material is made for certain temperature ranges. Standared street driving to hard racing.
Temperature range and overall friction value are the primary considerations for pad selection. The pads must be capable of maintaining the proper amount of friction for stopping power within the temperatures that will be realized on the track during the event. Then, overall wear rate must be considered. For most asphalt and road race applications, compounds in the high temperature ranges over 1000°F range are usually necessary. Dirt track, drag race, and street performance applications usually operate at temperatures between 500° and 1000°F. Keep in mind that these are general ranges, and not absolute values. Many factors and unforeseen influences can affect brake temperatures. The best indicator for pad selection will always be on track performance. If pad fade (friction loss) due to overheating occurs, then improved cooling, a heavier rotor, or a higher temperature range pad may all become necessary. source:http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html
Where as racing brake pads will have a Cf of .55 to .7 and temp ranges up to 1000-1300*F.
there really is no compound that can do both. street pads are good for street use but melt or glaze over and do not stop under repeated high braking tempeatures of 800-1000*F
on the other side race pads seldom work well at the lower street brakeing temperatures of 400-500*F.
This is an EXTREEM over simplifcation. Do your own research. If you going to the track ask the GUYS who run on the track what brake pads they use and what is there braking style??
Most common race pads are ( no particular order)
CarboTech XP10, XP11, XP12
PFC -01
Wilwood H, Wilwood A for C4s
Hawk - Blue, Black or DT70s ( there are a few others too - HP and HP+ are NOT track / race pads, but very good street performance brake pads)
Brake pad information
http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html
http://www.carbotecheng.com/prod-ct-compounds.htm
Is there a brake pad that can do double duty, street and limited track use?? From years of experience with many many differnt guys and pads tested, the ansewer is YES. The stock ACDelco C5 ZO6 pad is that pad.
I use the PFC01 and most recently the Wilwood H. In the past I have used the Hawk HP, and HP+ way too much dust on my yellow car.
HTH
Last edited by AU N EGL; Apr 30, 2006 at 11:18 AM.
Thanks for all the good information.
http://www.racepages.com/brand/akebono.html
Thanks
With my car being yellow, I don't really mind the 5% decrease in braking performance. Washing the car daily sure takes a toll on my back, even at my tender age, hehe.













