[Z06] Winter Help..
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 138
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From: Grand Rapids holy mother its cold here MI used to live in Cali what was I thinking
Winter Help..
I don't want to beat a dead horse here
.. (but I kinda have to) The only question that I have is when you are storing your cars when do you start them through out the winter time? Is it even safe to start them? Before my Z06 I had a 94 LT1, and I think I killed it through the winters. I started it a couple of time WITH THE WRONG OIL. I had 15W 50 Mobile One Tri Syn, and supposedly that oil is really bad in cold weather. So since then my 94 Vette had a really bad knock. I am not retarded, I am just from California and South Texas and went through my first winter. I pretty much know everything about storing my vette in the cold Michigan winters, except for when to start it. So please help on this One question if you would.
FYI: I have been using 0W40 and really like it. I may switch to 5W30 for the winter. This is Mobile 1 oil by the way.
Thanks
Al
.. (but I kinda have to) The only question that I have is when you are storing your cars when do you start them through out the winter time? Is it even safe to start them? Before my Z06 I had a 94 LT1, and I think I killed it through the winters. I started it a couple of time WITH THE WRONG OIL. I had 15W 50 Mobile One Tri Syn, and supposedly that oil is really bad in cold weather. So since then my 94 Vette had a really bad knock. I am not retarded, I am just from California and South Texas and went through my first winter. I pretty much know everything about storing my vette in the cold Michigan winters, except for when to start it. So please help on this One question if you would. FYI: I have been using 0W40 and really like it. I may switch to 5W30 for the winter. This is Mobile 1 oil by the way.
Thanks
Al
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 372
From: Philadelphia PA
Stick with the factory fill (5W-30). Engineers put the engine through rigorous tests and this oil proved itself through the broad spectrum of temperature changes. After all, it's been a factory fill since what, 92? Plus it eliminated the need for the oil cooler.
Anyways, as far as winter storage...there will be times when the roads are dry. So start her up and take her out for a cruise. Just keep a battery tender hooked up...
Anyways, as far as winter storage...there will be times when the roads are dry. So start her up and take her out for a cruise. Just keep a battery tender hooked up...
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Parry Sound Ontario
Originally Posted by BMF42
I don't want to beat a dead horse here .. (but I kinda have to) The only question that I have is when you are storing your cars when do you start them through out the winter time? Is it even safe to start them? Before my Z06 I had a 94 LT1, and I think I killed it through the winters. I started it a couple of time WITH THE WRONG OIL. I had 15W 50 Mobile One Tri Syn, and supposedly that oil is really bad in cold weather. So since then my 94 Vette had a really bad knock. I am not retarded, I am just from California and South Texas and went through my first winter. I pretty much know everything about storing my vette in the cold Michigan winters, except for when to start it. So please help on this One question if you would.
FYI: I have been using 0W40 and really like it. I may switch to 5W30 for the winter. This is Mobile 1 oil by the way.
Thanks
Al
.. (but I kinda have to) The only question that I have is when you are storing your cars when do you start them through out the winter time? Is it even safe to start them? Before my Z06 I had a 94 LT1, and I think I killed it through the winters. I started it a couple of time WITH THE WRONG OIL. I had 15W 50 Mobile One Tri Syn, and supposedly that oil is really bad in cold weather. So since then my 94 Vette had a really bad knock. I am not retarded, I am just from California and South Texas and went through my first winter. I pretty much know everything about storing my vette in the cold Michigan winters, except for when to start it. So please help on this One question if you would. FYI: I have been using 0W40 and really like it. I may switch to 5W30 for the winter. This is Mobile 1 oil by the way.
Thanks
Al
Attach a battery tender, or other electronic float charger and don't touch the car until you are finsihed with the storage period. Do not start the car. Other tips, make sure you are protected against mice if you are storing in colder climates, change the oil before storage. Some inflate tires, I just roll the car by hand every two weeks or so, but the tires really don't flat spot anyways.
I usually leave my 04 Z for 5 months without starting. No problems at all for the past two winters. My storage is in a heated garage to about 38 degrees, but you don't need heat.
The biggest problem is the wait until warmer weather returns. I am in Parry Sound , Ontario so we have too much snow, dirty roads, and so forth to even think about winter driving. Good luck
Jim
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Grand Rapids holy mother its cold here MI used to live in Cali what was I thinking
I think I can go the entire winter without starting it. Only if thats okay with my car. Thanks for the info guys.
Al
Al
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Starting a car and just letting it idle is not really the best manner to get it internally lubricated. Wait for one of those days when you can take the car outside and just drive it easy for 10-15 minutes. That gets everything lubricated in the motor, transmission and axle, coolant circulated, etc. The heat produced will help eliminate condensation, which is counterproductive to oil lubrication. If the motor runs a little rich, driving it will reduce plug fouling. Also, turn on the heater to circulate coolant from the heater core and the a/c to charge the system.
The temperatures will come up to normal operating range faster being driven easy than at idle. Use all of the other suggested winterizing procedures...BATTERY TENDER, STA-BIL, rodent proofing, air in tires, etc.
The temperatures will come up to normal operating range faster being driven easy than at idle. Use all of the other suggested winterizing procedures...BATTERY TENDER, STA-BIL, rodent proofing, air in tires, etc.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Sep 13, 2006 at 03:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 138
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From: Grand Rapids holy mother its cold here MI used to live in Cali what was I thinking
Originally Posted by hotwheels57
Starting a car and just letting it idle is not really the best manner to get it internally lubricated. Wait for one of those days when you can take the car outside and just drive it easy for 10-15 minutes. That gets everything lubricated in the motor, transmission and axle, coolant circulated, etc. The heat produced will help eliminate condensation, which is counterproductive to oil lubrication. If the motor runs a little rich, driving it will reduce plug fouling. Also, turn on the heater to circulate coolant from the heater core and the a/c to charge the system.
The temperatures will come up to normal operating range faster being driven easy than at idle. Use all of the other suggested winterizing procedures...BATTERY TENDER, STA-BIL, rodent proofing, air in tires, etc.
The temperatures will come up to normal operating range faster being driven easy than at idle. Use all of the other suggested winterizing procedures...BATTERY TENDER, STA-BIL, rodent proofing, air in tires, etc.
Thanks for the good info
Navigator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Winter Storage in Minnesota
I have a 2007 Z06 and I asked the Head Vet Mechanic at my dealer how to store it over the winter. He said not to run it until I planned to take it out of storage. Not to use a battery tender, he felt it might damage the electronics. He advised just disconnecting the negative lead on the battery. He also said I could inflate the tires to 40psi. He felt they shouldn't get flat spots, but it wouldn't hurt to add the extra 8lbs. He said I just had to remember to take the added pressure off in the spring before I used it.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
I'd tend to agree with the tech except for the comment about a BATTERY TENDER (by DELTRAN CORPORATION).
A typical float maintenance type charge of .75 or 1.75 amp (like the BATTERY TENDER JR. or BATTERY TENDER PLUS) should not harm electronics. Mine is left on year around when my cars are not driven regularly. The only electronics failure I've ever experienced is the fading odometer syndrome common to the '96 Impala SS that I own. The imput is minimal, only maintaining a full charge on the battery then going into its "sleep" mode.
Maybe he doesn't understand what a float maintenance type charger does?
Disconnecting the negative cable would eliminate parasitic draw from the battery, but going for months w/o maintaining a full charge in the battery would probably lead to a new battery in the spring...of coarse, it is a brand new car under warranty, so follow your gut instinct.
A typical float maintenance type charge of .75 or 1.75 amp (like the BATTERY TENDER JR. or BATTERY TENDER PLUS) should not harm electronics. Mine is left on year around when my cars are not driven regularly. The only electronics failure I've ever experienced is the fading odometer syndrome common to the '96 Impala SS that I own. The imput is minimal, only maintaining a full charge on the battery then going into its "sleep" mode.
Maybe he doesn't understand what a float maintenance type charger does?
Disconnecting the negative cable would eliminate parasitic draw from the battery, but going for months w/o maintaining a full charge in the battery would probably lead to a new battery in the spring...of coarse, it is a brand new car under warranty, so follow your gut instinct.
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