Rhino Ramp Question
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Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 228
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From: Washington IL
St. Jude Donor '07
Rhino Ramp Question
I need to change my oil before winter so I'm thinking about getting a set. Are these ready to go out of the box, or will I have to use something else to make sure the air dam clears? I'm just trying to weight buying vs making some.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 281
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From: Bakersfield CA
I did a search for past post and there many different out comes of succes with these. Some said that it works fine and others said that they have clearance problems. I decided to try my luck and bought a set just this past Thursday. Came home to get the vette up on them and my air dam was hitting!! I would say you need another two inches at least to get the car on there!! I am going to return my Rhino Ramps and just make some from scratch!! Thats my $0.02.
~Mikeal
My Vette is a 99 with factory height.
~Mikeal
My Vette is a 99 with factory height.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 470
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From: puyallup wa
I just bought a pair of Rhino Extreme ramps(grey there wider than the black ones)at Auto zone to repalce my turn signals.I want to give a shout out to all the guys that had something to say about doing turn signals when I did my search on here on how to replace them.Thanks Doug
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If you don't want your air dam to hit the ramp, you will need to use a piece of wood help get up on the ramp. Or if you don't mind the air dam hitting, just drive up on the ramp. It won't hurt the air dam either way.
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From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
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Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
If you don't want your air dam to hit the ramp, you will need to use a piece of wood help get up on the ramp. Or if you don't mind the air dam hitting, just drive up on the ramp. It won't hurt the air dam either way.
I find that the air dam makes the ramps slide on the concrete unless you brace them. The piece of wood gives just enough clearance and lets you get onto the ramp without the slide.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,453
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From: Fishin' Pole FL
My car is lowered on stock bolts. I have to drive up onto a 2x12 before the ramp or the facia will hit the ramp before the wheels. You can see in the pic where the facia is and how much farther the wheels have to go before they touch the ramp.
Last edited by dndrsn; Oct 15, 2006 at 11:40 AM.
Pro
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From: Geneva, IL Bring back the Chief!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
If you don't want your air dam to hit the ramp, you will need to use a piece of wood help get up on the ramp. Or if you don't mind the air dam hitting, just drive up on the ramp. It won't hurt the air dam either way.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 542
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From: Odenton MD
Originally Posted by StephenT
The air dams are made to flex, there are no issues with the ramps.
They rub on the way up and on the way down. No permanent issues. I use mine all the time. My Z is lowered on stock bolts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Winchester TN
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Hi Illini82 -
Save your money -
Just bring your car over to my house and we'll put it up on the lift to change the oil -
pm me for my cell phone number -
I live in Lake Camelot.
best regards -
mqqn
Save your money -
Just bring your car over to my house and we'll put it up on the lift to change the oil -
pm me for my cell phone number -
I live in Lake Camelot.
best regards -
mqqn
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 211
Likes: 2
From: Glendale CA
Originally Posted by DeeGee
I find that the air dam makes the ramps slide on the concrete unless you brace them. The piece of wood gives just enough clearance and lets you get onto the ramp without the slide. (if you have an Auto)
It also helps "me" to put it in 2nd gear when driving up the ramps. If you put it in second, from a stop, it will skip 1st and start rolling in the taller second gear. This makes it much more manageble to slowly creep onto the ramps.
In first it seems that the start and stop can be more abrupt and tends to push the ramps. In second the gas peddle is much less sensitive as far as getting it rolling due to the taller gear.
This is a fucntion designed by GM to help get out of being stuck in snow or mud and to reduce wheel spin in those situations.
I was having the same sliding issue but this helped tremedously for me, it really allows you to "creep" onto the ramps instead of drive up them...
GL
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ellensburg Washington State
1) Back up on 2x4's (to get the rear higher) block wheels.
2) Jack up drivers side useing puck and floor jack.
3) Place jack stand under car as insurance, but keep car on floor jack.
4) Crawl under and remove drain plug.
5) Remove jack stand and lower car to drain oil.
6) Raise car and change filter, insert drain plug.
7) Fill with 6.5 quarts Mobli 1
No ramps and Works for me. Do this with all my cars with low clearance. Just remember the jack stand in csae the floor jack decides to go out on you.
2) Jack up drivers side useing puck and floor jack.
3) Place jack stand under car as insurance, but keep car on floor jack.
4) Crawl under and remove drain plug.
5) Remove jack stand and lower car to drain oil.
6) Raise car and change filter, insert drain plug.
7) Fill with 6.5 quarts Mobli 1
No ramps and Works for me. Do this with all my cars with low clearance. Just remember the jack stand in csae the floor jack decides to go out on you.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 9,420
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From: Southern New Jersey, The wet part at the bottom
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
[QUOTE=Shylor]Or you could use a 2x12 in front off the Rhino Ramps, that is what I do.I do the same thing. Have used 2, 2 foot x 12" lengths of presure treated for years and my '02 vert is lowered on stock bolts. If the dam touches, it is MADE to flex on the corners, and sprung in the center. No worries.