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HELP!!...Just had a big oops!! Installing headers...

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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:40 AM
  #21  
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Yea, seems like everything I touch breaks today. Everytime i get into a big project, I ask myself, why I started...!!! AAARG....

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:42 AM
  #22  
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now you will get your moneys worth from the Easy Out. JK.

should come right out also with the Easy Out. i know how you are feeling. everytime i worked on my supra which was alot i always had similar issues. i ended selling the car instead of shooting myself.

good luck!
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by stickystuff
now you will get your moneys worth from the Easy Out. JK.

should come right out also with the Easy Out. i know how you are feeling. everytime i worked on my supra which was alot i always had similar issues. i ended selling the car instead of shooting myself.

good luck!
How much clearance will I need with the easy out...?? It's the bolt on the front of the drivers side, so clearance is at the minimum....

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 12:58 AM
  #24  
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Please, I'm a machinist, and have had to "fix" many first timers attempt at EZ outing a bolt...
no offense, but you've broke two bolts already?
Stop, and have someone who knows what they're doing do it.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:25 AM
  #25  
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you probaly can get some more room if you remove the alternator but im not in front of my car.

but Arnie Guitar might be right. dont dig the hole to deep. luck might not be on your side this time around.

if you are going to give it a shoot. practice tapping a bolt outside the car in a vice or something. understand how the tool works and master it bit.

just from another guy who has learned to many things the hard way.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:31 AM
  #26  
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I hear yall, about letting someone else do the work, but I've done quite a bit of projects, just never have had this bad of luck on them. I'm gonna go to sears in the morning in the search of an easy out and tap set to clean the threads. I'll practice on the tensioner first, since it's out the car and not the block.... Everythig was going good for a while....then bam. Sometimes I think it's better to quit when I's goin like that and start over later....

As far as the header install....many first timers have done it....I would like to think I have a decent knowledge of mechanics, enven though right now....maybe not...lol

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:32 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by stickystuff
you probaly can get some more room if you remove the alternator but im not in front of my car.

but Arnie Guitar might be right. dont dig the hole to deep. luck might not be on your side this time around.

if you are going to give it a shoot. practice tapping a bolt outside the car in a vice or something. understand how the tool works and master it bit.

just from another guy who has learned to many things the hard way.

It's not the room next to the alt I'm worried about. It's the distance from that bolt to the fender....Maybe I can convince my wife I need to swap engines, cause this one's unfixable.....427 anyone??...

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:46 AM
  #28  
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are there any threads left on the snapped header bolt?

if so just thread on to small bolts, tighten them up together and put a wrench on. back the snapped bolt out.

good luck with the 427. let us know how it works out.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:53 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by stickystuff
are there any threads left on the snapped header bolt?

if so just thread on to small bolts, tighten them up together and put a wrench on. back the snapped bolt out.

good luck with the 427. let us know how it works out.

Yea, looks like there are about 3 threads left. I tried a vice grip, but won't back it out very well. Don't want to risk damaging it too much where the easy out won't catch onto it.


You lost me with the tighten the 2 bolts??.....please explain more...

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:54 AM
  #30  
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Bummer. There are a number of ways to get it out. The best is to STAY AWAY from easy outs. That is the worst name ever given to a tool. Good ones are made very hard and when they break off (and they will) in the remainder of the bolt you are in deep do-do. The best way is to slip a flat washer over the remaining part of the bolt, then take a nut and put it over whats left of the bolt and weld from the center of the nut until it is full and flush with the end of the nut. Then let it cool and turn it out. Heating and cooling the bolt and area around it is the best way to get the bolt to turn loose. Now I am going to bet you don't have a welder. (Just said that was the best way, not the only way) The next best thing is go to a parts store and get about four LEFT HANDED drill bits starting with a very small one and go up to a size just smaller than the bolt. Don't get cheap ones as they will dull before you get done. Drill the first (smallest) hole making sure you stay as close to, and lined up with the center of the bolt as you can. Go about 3/4 of the depth of the remaining bolt. Then go up one size and drill in the hole you just made. Repeat with the next two bits in order of size. With the bits being left handed there is a good chance the third or fourth bit will catch the remainder of the bolt and turn it out. WEAR EYE PROTECTION as bits can and do break. There are sprays you can get that help penetrate the threads to break then loose that are much better than WD-40, which is more of a lubricant. Ask at the store about them. There about the same price as WD-40.
Trying vice-grips on that small amount of bolt sticking out will only bugger up the small part of the bolt you have left to work with. If the head of the bolt broke vice-grips won't turn it anyway. If the drill bits don't get it out then you can try the easy outs, since you will have a good hole to work with, but be easy with them. Drill bits won't drill them out if they break.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 02:03 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Flat Broke
Bummer. There are a number of ways to get it out. The best is to STAY AWAY from easy outs. That is the worst name ever given to a tool. Good ones are made very hard and when they break off (and they will) in the remainder of the bolt you are in deep do-do. The best way is to slip a flat washer over the remaining part of the bolt, then take a nut and put it over whats left of the bolt and weld from the center of the nut until it is full and flush with the end of the nut. Then let it cool and turn it out. Heating and cooling the bolt and area around it is the best way to get the bolt to turn loose. Now I am going to bet you don't have a welder. (Just said that was the best way, not the only way) The next best thing is go to a parts store and get about four LEFT HANDED drill bits starting with a very small one and go up to a size just smaller than the bolt. Don't get cheap ones as they will dull before you get done. Drill the first (smallest) hole making sure you stay as close to, and lined up with the center of the bolt as you can. Go about 3/4 of the depth of the remaining bolt. Then go up one size and drill in the hole you just made. Repeat with the next two bits in order of size. With the bits being left handed there is a good chance the third or fourth bit will catch the remainder of the bolt and turn it out. WEAR EYE PROTECTION as bits can and do break. There are sprays you can get that help penetrate the threads to break then loose that are much better than WD-40, which is more of a lubricant. Ask at the store about them. There about the same price as WD-40.
Trying vice-grips on that small amount of bolt sticking out will only bugger up the small part of the bolt you have left to work with. If the head of the bolt broke vice-grips won't turn it anyway. If the drill bits don't get it out then you can try the easy outs, since you will have a good hole to work with, but be easy with them. Drill bits won't drill them out if they break.

On the header bolt there are about 3 threads showing.... I was gonna try this first....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfmm.0

Scott
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 02:13 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by sceia
On the header bolt there are about 3 threads showing.... I was gonna try this first....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfmm.0

Scott
I have not seen one of those. Looks like an inside out easy-out without having to worry about breaking anything off inside the bolt. Hope it works but the problem I see is the threads are going to give way becouse they are softer than a solid bolt. However if they do just go to a smaller size until you get down to solid metal. If they work let us know. I will get some.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 10:13 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sceia
Man oh man, yea, I guess I'm going that route. The idea of going to the stealership and saying I need a belt tensioner drives a sharp pain down my spine. I guess it's best that I find out now that I had a weak bolt. So if I get this bolt out, anyone know what replacement bolt I need....can I get it at the "hd" or does it have to be specialized??

Scott.
Hi Scott -

First - use the screw extractor kit linked here from Sears - I have a set of these and use it almost every time I work on a dirt bike.

You drill a hole in the bolt that remains in the hole, and use this to extract the broken piece.

That WILL remove the broken end of the bolt if you use it as directed.

If you decide to just go with a new tensioner - there is a post today in the c5 parts section where a member has a few KATECH fixed tensioners for a good price.

best regards -

mqqn
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 10:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by illmac77
take a dremel with a small cutting wheel, make a slice in the stud of the bolt...then take a screw driver and just unscrew the bolt
This is the exact advice I was about to give. FYI 2 15mm bolts and you can take the tensioner assembly out of the car so it's easier to work on.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 11:49 AM
  #35  
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I snapped one of my intake manifold bolts last weekend if it makes you feel any better... good luck!
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 02:09 PM
  #36  
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Well, a new morning brings new news.....

I have removed the remaining bolt from the tensioner.....sending the wife to lowes for a replacement. All that is left is the one on the head. I used the easy out set with the drill bits and extractors from sears...worked like a charm. Tried the reverse looking easy out set on the one on the heads....no luck....will have to drill and remove that one too....need a 90 deg attachment for my drill though....waiting for one to arrive. I'll keep yall posted on the progress...

Half the battle os done....

Scott.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 02:26 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Arnie Guitar
Please, I'm a machinist, and have had to "fix" many first timers attempt at EZ outing a bolt...
no offense, but you've broke two bolts already?
Stop, and have someone who knows what they're doing do it.





If you snapped the head off the header bolt after it contacted the flange of the header it may spin out easily. If you bottomed out the header bolt, then it will be a real bitch to remove. Good Luck with your repairs, and enjoy your mods.

Last edited by dndrsn; Oct 27, 2006 at 02:29 PM.
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