I am having a problem with starting. Somtimes when I insert the ignition key nothing happens. All the lights come on, everthing adjusts, etc. but no ignition. I never know when this will occur. I can go two or three weeks between the problem. The last time it did it I ran the diagnostic test while it was doing this and there was one code. It has something to do with the telescoping sterring column. I'm told this won't cause my problem. I cleared the code and it still didn't start. I also checked the battery read out and it said 11.9 volts. I can sit for 15or 20 minutes and eventually it will start. I've had it into the dealer twice and they found no codes and unless I leave it (forever I guess) they say they can't fix it. They have to see the problem doing this in the shop. Anyone having the same problem or got any ideas? It is a 2002 automatic coupe.

 

I hope someone else will chime in, but I would make sure your transmission it all the way into park. Also clean your ignition key. Over the years, I have read how the key can get dirty and causes problems starting. Sorry I am not more help.

 

Probably the battery

 

Another thing which may help is to clean the resistor pellet on the key. If its dirty it may prevent the security system from disarming.

Does one key cause more problems than the other?

 

I've tried both keys and I have the same problem with both of them.

 

I did move the shifter around the last time and it seemed to start quicker. I'm going to try that first the next time it happens and see if it helps my problem. I hope it is. Sure is a pain.

 

I get a reading of 11.9 volts but I've had several people suggest the battery. Dealer doesn't think it is the battery.

 

If a battery reads 11.75 volts you've probably got a dead battery. And yours is to close to that mark. Battery for sure. Dealers don't have a clue. How old is the battery? You should only expect 4 to 5 years from any battery after that you are probably going to due in your alternator trying to keep the battery up to snuff. My .02

 

In that case I'd agree with the other guys. <12v doesn't sound good. If its a 4 year old stock AC Delco its probably overdue for a change. The older AC delcos were prone to leaks although I think they'd fixed the problem by 02. Even so mine only lasted 8000 miles Take a look here if you decide to change it:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ry+performance

 

Try tightening the negative and positive connections on the battery terminals.

 

Had the exact symptoms you did. Mine is fine now (knock on wood). Here are the steps I went through to fix (eliminate) the problem. You don't necessarily have to do these, but these are the fixes that could be the root of the problem. The last one you try is always the right one, just wish I'd have tried that one first.

1. Replaced Key with new one - need to know your ignition code
2. Replace the ignition ($$) to see if there was a short possibly or not making contact
3. Replaced anti-theft deterrent module (in the BCM)
4. Replace the battery
5. Finally replaced the starter! Thought about that first, but since it would start after several minutes of sitting after a mis-start, I "assumed" it wasn't the problem.

Haven't had the problem in over 1.5 years now.
Good Luck
Ed

 

After it starts the battery volts read 14 (+). Before trying to start I get the 11.9 reading. If it's the battery would I not have the problem all the time rather that once every two or three weeks.

 

Did the problem continue after you tried the first four and the starter replacement fix the problem?

 

I agree. With the alternator working, the car should read 14 or a little more, and with the key on, but the car not started, 11.9 is so close to the 12 the battery should store that it could be a gauge error, who knows.

It almost sounds like a grounding issue to me. There are some GREAT threads available through the forum on the C5 grounding points that could be causing an issue like this.

 

It's NOT the battery - it actually irritates me when people suggest this without considering the actual scenario of the issue.

Using the DIC to read battery volts when the engine is off is inaccurate since it's designed to measure the alternator output when the car's on. 13.5-14.5V is normal with the engine running, and 11.9V with the engine off is more than enough. You should measure the battery at it's terminals with a DMM to determine it's charge and as long as it's over ~12.2V it's OK.

Since all other electricals work but you get no crank, it can be a number of things in the starting circuit:

- Auto transmission has switch to ensure tranny is in Park otherwise starter circuit is OPEN. If the switch is faulty it could cause this no-crank condition. You can bypass the switch by locating it's connector under the gear shifter and short it (but make sure the car's in Park or Neutral). Try moving the gear shift out and back into P before starting to see if that does anything.

- Theft Deterent Relay in the passenger footwell is also in the circuit. If the relay goes bad it can leave the circuit open. That relay can also be bypassed.

- The ignition switch has a contact that will enable the starter circuit.

- If the key pellet is bad you should see a DIC message indicating a problem, or a code. Are there any codes stored?

- Last, it could be the starter itself where the starter motor has a dead spot and won't turn.

I would start with the easiest and work towards the starter.

 

I had the same problem except that I would hear a clicking sound when I turned the key to crank the engine. After numerous attempts, it would eventually start. I went several months like this with an occassional problem but usually would start just fine the first try. Finally, I was at a friends house and the car would not start no matter how hard I tried so I had to have it towed home. I received many suggestions from various people much like you are now, but since I am reasonably mechanically inclined, I just ordered a brand new starter and installed it myself and my car has worked/started perfectly ever since. My car is a '98 and had about 55,000 miles on it when this happened earlier this year. It is also a good idea to replace the battery cables along with the starter which is what I did. It gets very hot down there where the starter is and think it tends to wear the starter out faster than in more normal cars. Anyway, good luck, I hope you get your ride fixed.

 

Once I replaced that, everything has been fine. I checked the grounding too, but couldn't locate anything.
ED

 

I went out to start my 04 & at first the key wouldn't even go in. Eventually it went in most of the way, but not far enough to turn. Finally we did get the key in & turn, but nothing happened. I tried moving the tranny, but it wouldn't move. Everything works (lights, windows, memory). We tried both keys.
Car now at home, me at work. I'm still under warranty, but I hate to have it towed.

Any ideas?

 

Mine was the STARTER. And couldn't find parts to fix the solenoid either. Got a rebuilt starter and that was the end of the turn key and nothing happens problem.