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I am moving next week from Ohio to Mississippi (USAF) and purchased an enclosed 22 ft trailer for the vette. Where do you guys attach your tie down straps to your vette? Thanks, James
From: Southern New Jersey, The wet part at the bottom
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I don't own a trailer so don't quote me on this but I would guess the same place the Car Carrier did. The 4 slots in the frame at the lifting points. (where the jacking pucks go) I'm sure others will chime in.
From: "Man been singin' the Blues, since he began to till the ground"...Vancouver, USA WA.
The slots for "Jacking Pucks" are actually for tie downs, many people don't understand that the slotted, round piece of tin is only "spotwelded" in place. They are engineered for downforce only (TieDOWNS), there have been posts by members who have had their jackstands break through into the inside of the rocker area. What needs to be done is some vendors need to design a "Puck" that has a lip/ring that is larger than the cutout that the slotted part is spotwelded to. Very simple, kinda suprized know one has figgerd it out yet.
I don't own a trailer so don't quote me on this but I would guess the same place the Car Carrier did. The 4 slots in the frame at the lifting points. (where the jacking pucks go) I'm sure others will chime in.
The safest place is the one GM designed for the car. (see above) +Use good quality straps.
The slots for "Jacking Pucks" are actually for tie downs, many people don't understand that the slotted, round piece of tin is only "spotwelded" in place. They are engineered for downforce only (TieDOWNS), there have been posts by members who have had their jackstands break through into the inside of the rocker area. What needs to be done is some vendors need to design a "Puck" that has a lip/ring that is larger than the cutout that the slotted part is spotwelded to. Very simple, kinda suprized know one has figgerd it out yet.
Can I get more detailed info on how you tie down a vette? Do you use straps like the picture below? Or, is there another type of hook that goes in those slots?
Do you run them from a hook towards the front of the floor to the rear slots; then rear hook to front slot in the vette? Then wheel chocks?
From: "Man been singin' the Blues, since he began to till the ground"...Vancouver, USA WA.
Sounds like over the tire method may be the easiest, I know they make a net/web tiedown that covers the complete topside of the tire. Might check out JEGS Racing prods.
Depends on what your trailer has for tie down options. Most just have D-rings. Mine is an open trailer but it has 4 D-rings on the floor. I purchased (4) metal "keys" I guess I would call them from my trailer dealer. They fit several different slots/hole configs. From the ring that connects the keys I run normal tiedowns crossed. I think the best way is the tire hold-down straps but they take more D-rings at different positions then most trailers have as standard.
Sorry, should have been clear - the "keys" fit my 77 have not tried them in the slots on my C5
Last edited by 77Blue; Jan 23, 2007 at 01:35 PM.
Reason: clarification
I towed mine on my 16ft car hauler about 220 miles... Use tie down straps as pictured above.
Basically in the front, I went around the sway bar up front and the lower control arm, wrapped around both ends and then to the front corners of the trailer.
On the rear, same thing around the lower control arms on both sides, then tied to the rear corners of the trailer. To chock the tires, I got a 2x6 and screwed it into the trailer floor, that assured it wasn't rolling anywhere...
Just load it up and take a few minutes to spot everything and then determine what you best method of strapping it down is and take your time.
PCS time eh? I should be receiving some orders soon too... Go Air Force!
Bluegrass Trailers in Lebanon Junction, Kentucky. It was $4,700 for a 22' enclosed trailer. I tied down the vette just like my other race cars...used the chunk of the rear and the control arms in the front. I did not use wheel chocks; the car won't move if properly strapped down. Thanks for the replies. James
I would use the "seat belts". Just pull it over your shoulder and snap into the other side near the console. They are factory installed, so no extra cost. Drive it, its more fun, a lot less complicated, and cheaper (maybe).
I would use the "seat belts". Just pull it over your shoulder and snap into the other side near the console. They are factory installed, so no extra cost. Drive it, its more fun, a lot less complicated, and cheaper (maybe).
That's good advice right there... now tell him the part about having somebody else move the rest of his stuff for him.
I would use the "seat belts". Just pull it over your shoulder and snap into the other side near the console. They are factory installed, so no extra cost. Drive it, its more fun, a lot less complicated, and cheaper (maybe).
Also comes from someone in Tx where they dont have to deal with winter roads (sand, salt and chemicals). After spending 2 weeks detailing my car, not gonna drive in that stuff.
I just bought a featherlite and hauled my car for the first time. Northern is sold out of J hooks (crap) but I used the big straps show above, crossed and off the back side of the dif, close to the lower A arms. Same up front, just stay away from the A arms as I heard you can throw off alignment. Good luck man!
Dave
PS Aim high! I used to have an AF job, PMEL but did it in the Army... now I just chase sparks, make slides, teach younglings how to use their light sabers...
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