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OK, I just got my 02Z early this week . Drove it home to Wichita from Houston with no troulbes at all. Car seemed to run great. Then today I was out driving and the Check Engine Light came on . The car was still running just fine, checked that the gas cap was seated and even filled up again later, light stays on. Ive used no lower than 91 octane every fill up. Now ive read the threads on similiar situations, But i am no mechanic, will pulling the codes myself just to see what the deal is make it more difficult for the shop to fix later if i take it to them. Since the car runs fine, It looks like i may be able to clear the codes and get the light out and be fine, but if not...just tell the shop the codes i cleared and all is well??? Help!!! what should i do!
Looks like the first two are rich fuel system bank 1 and 2. the others dont seem to be listed under the system that my car is placing them, but it looks like some loss of communication??? Everything seems to work fine, however, i started it in the garage and figured that if it was running rich at all i would for sure smell it in the garage....sure enough, smells rich. As i said, I am NOT a mechanic. So unless anyone has any contrary advice (or a REAL easly fix), its off to the shop with me! any ideas on what the "vette tax" will be on this?
Not trying to be a smartazz but did you bother reading what GLENM27 told you?????
If those are the only codes you have then they are all history items and don't mean squat if they are not reoccuring and/or have a "C" for current behind them. None of them are that important as a stand alone event so don't sweat it.
I suspect you've missed a code somewhere because the one(s) that would kick on a steady check engine light are generally emissions related and should show a "C" behind the code that tripped the light if it came on today. You can start worrying when your check engine light is flashing...as in shut off the car ASAP until you determine what the problem is.
Anyway just clear the codes as per the procedure and odds are the light is going to go out.
I would highly suggest you bone up on the car's basic functions cuz if you run to a mechanic everytime a circuit fartz and kicks a code then you better be prepared to waste, and I mean waste a ton of money on completely useless labor.
I talked to my truck mechanic when that happened to my Toyota truck. He said about 99pct of the time it is the oxygen sensor. Just a guess but according to my truck mechanic, I have a 99pct chance of being right. Oh, I will be in Wichita from Jan 19 to the 22nd. If you got time for lunch one day let me know. Maybe we could convince Wideglydejim to show up.
Yup, I read it all. As well as some old threads on it. But ill admit, Im a newbie! Thanks for the heads up on the "C" behind codes. I didnt see any, but now I know what it means if I do. I definatley have a lot to learn. I recheck the codes in the AM for a "C". If not then ill clear them and see what happens. Although it did smell a bit rich...guess ill see what happens. Ive had the O2 sensor before in an old truck, but it was old enough that it didnt have a check engine light or codes for it. I cant imagine that being too difficult, Ill look into changing that next. thanks for the heads up TORCH. Im up for a lunch, just let me know when. If you know the area I could use a heads up on a garage trustworthy of changing oil and other routine type stuff on my Vette. Thanks for all the help guys! I posted so i can learn and not pay...CF pulls through!
As Cajun says, those are history codes. Not current. If you have a check engine light something else is going on. Take it to Autozone or some other place that has an OBD-II scanner. Most check-engine light codes will not show on the DIC. OBD-II scanner is the only way to read it. I've had one for 3 months - P1416. No big deal - awaiting the $20 part from Gene.
Good luck,
Vaughn
thanks for all the input everyone! I went out this morening and rechecked the codes for anything new or current. after finding neither i went ahead and cleared everything. Car started up just fine and the light stayed out. Left it running and got out to have a wiff and the rich fuel smell is gone. Is it possible that since it was a little wet out either a sensor or elec connection got clogged or wet and somehow caused the engine to run a bit rich? Are these cars really that fragile with rain, seems i have read a few posts about troubles with them in the rain. I dont plan on driving in the rain, i just kinda got caught in it..had to get the car home though. Thanks again for all the advice!
My check engine light came on and the codes indicated that it was running lean. A quick check under the hood found that my air intake had come loose from the mass airflow sensor. After I put it back together and turned off the light it's been fine.
I have to ask this question, are you using a K&N type air filter and have you opted to install a chip in the vehicle?
The reason I state this is from personal experience, over oiling the K&N air filter will foul the mass air flow sensor and throw trouble codes indicative of low air intake into either the left or right bank or both.
When I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and air filter (using a Donaldson Blackwing) and did not oil the filter, the trouble codes went away without going back into the car programming and has remained constant for the past 3K miles.
A simple thing but maybe the real source of the problem and something you can do yourself with some care especially when using a solvent on the mass air flow sensor. I used a quart of alcohol (not the drinking type) and everything now is fine.
jrose7004 and grandpa bear, those are exactly the types of tricks i was hoping to learn. Thanks! I have the stock air box, and believe stock filter...ill check on that though. I did think to check connections and found nothing loose...but ill be honest...everything under this hood scares the crap outta me! I worked and tinkered with several engines, mostly in high school. built a few hot rods with friends (400SB, 383 stroker, and one REALLY wild 327!) and pulled/swapped crappy 4cyl in my brothers renault 3 or 4 times (that dumb thing blew motors like bubble gum). But nothing even comesclose to the complex mess of wires and hoses and stuff I have no clue what the hell it even is, under the hood of the Z! I plan to learn as much as i can but for now it scares the poop outta me. So I just signed up for the extended warranty...better safe than sorry!
The event I described happend with both our C5 and Lexus RX. Neither filter had been cleaned and was factory new.
The Lexus threw display codes, check engine, traction off, stability control off lights were visible in the instrument display cluster. Lexus wound up replacing all four O2 sensors as on a Lexus the right and left bank have to be installed new otherwise the computer will misread the O2 level. Then then came up with the oil from the air filter was causing the mass air flow sensor to become erratic, left and right bank air flow measurements were different and out of spec. They also replaced the mass air flow sensor and have notified K&N. All work was done on warranty with Lexus.
The problem with the check engine light was a dirty mass air flow sensor as described and was cleaned using rubbing alcohol by the very careful eye dropper method so not to damage any of the fine wires that translate across the air flow. No problems since and now have 3500 miles since the check engine light came on.
Thanks guys for the inputs and comments, can always learn from others, was greatly appreciated.
I have to ask this question, are you using a K&N type air filter and have you opted to install a chip in the vehicle?
The reason I state this is from personal experience, over oiling the K&N air filter will foul the mass air flow sensor and throw trouble codes indicative of low air intake into either the left or right bank or both.
When I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and air filter (using a Donaldson Blackwing) and did not oil the filter, the trouble codes went away without going back into the car programming and has remained constant for the past 3K miles.
A simple thing but maybe the real source of the problem and something you can do yourself with some care especially when using a solvent on the mass air flow sensor. I used a quart of alcohol (not the drinking type) and everything now is fine.
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