headlight nylon gear replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
headlight nylon gear replacement
I have ordered the brass gear from bfranker and now the problem is trying to get the headlight motor out. I have tried using 10mm to get the nut out but i cant use a normal tool because it wont fit because the hood arm (lifting the hood) is in the way.
On top of that the wires that connect to the headlight are attached to the motor so even if by some miracle i figure out how to unscrew the three 10 mm nuts that are hidden in an impossible way to unscrew I still will be confronted with the not being able to disconnect the wire from the motor as it is taped for some reason (attached) the headlight motor wires....
I'm so disappointed as I have looked through bfrankers site and only have instructions for firebirds etc and I looked everywhere and cannot find any picture step by step instructions for replacing the corvette brass gear.
I thought this was suppose to be easy =( now i have to put everything back together again and I hope that someone will help me so i dont have to take my car to the stealership.
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
thank you
david
On top of that the wires that connect to the headlight are attached to the motor so even if by some miracle i figure out how to unscrew the three 10 mm nuts that are hidden in an impossible way to unscrew I still will be confronted with the not being able to disconnect the wire from the motor as it is taped for some reason (attached) the headlight motor wires....
I'm so disappointed as I have looked through bfrankers site and only have instructions for firebirds etc and I looked everywhere and cannot find any picture step by step instructions for replacing the corvette brass gear.
I thought this was suppose to be easy =( now i have to put everything back together again and I hope that someone will help me so i dont have to take my car to the stealership.
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
thank you
david
Race Director
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From: Houston, Tx Got traction?
CI 5-6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
There's actually 5 or 6 nuts you need to undo, and remove the entire assembly, motor and frame. Simply undo that big wire clip on top of the frame frail next to the head light motor, it all comes out as one.
All i can say is get creative on getting those bolts, i've got the head light removal and rebuild down to about a 30 minute job.
All i can say is get creative on getting those bolts, i've got the head light removal and rebuild down to about a 30 minute job.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
There's actually 5 or 6 nuts you need to undo, and remove the entire assembly, motor and frame. Simply undo that big wire clip on top of the frame frail next to the head light motor, it all comes out as one.
All i can say is get creative on getting those bolts, i've got the head light removal and rebuild down to about a 30 minute job.
All i can say is get creative on getting those bolts, i've got the head light removal and rebuild down to about a 30 minute job.
does anyone have any suggestions?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
WOW after unscrewing the bolts with a monkey wrench inch by inch. I finally dismounted the motor!!
then when i was unscrewing the three final screws to open so i can see the nylon gear the final nut broke off and now is stuck without any chance of getting it
I am going to epoxy and then replace the two nonbroken nuts.
do you guys think this will do? i hope so =(
then when i was unscrewing the three final screws to open so i can see the nylon gear the final nut broke off and now is stuck without any chance of getting it
I am going to epoxy and then replace the two nonbroken nuts.
do you guys think this will do? i hope so =(
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,492
Likes: 39
From: Tampa Florida
great, this job awaits me, sometimes it takes 3 times of turning the lights on and off to get the passanger light up and everytime i turn the lights off i hear clicking for a good 5 seconds.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 0
From: Port Charlotte FL
I just installed a new gear on mine yesterday... I didn't even need to remove the motor! All i did was remove the plastic housing around the headlight lens and sneak a small socket wrench in there. 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
okay this is a real problem that has occured. Now since i reinstalled everything the light i fixed will now go up but as soon as it gets to the top it goes right to the bottom and then comes up and then down and up and down and up and down UNTIL I shut off the lights.
its like a yoyo now and i have no idea what to do??? please help i cant drive my car like this now =(
its like a yoyo now and i have no idea what to do??? please help i cant drive my car like this now =(
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Surprise Arizona
I just did both gear replacements on a 2002 and confronted the same challenges. There are three 10mm bolts bracing the motor to the bracket and a 4th one bolting the actuator arm to the spindle of the motor. I elected to remove the motor without removing the entire assembly. Once I had the right tools to do the job, I found the most challenging thing was re-installing the actuator arm in the proper orientation. You have to do this by feel because you can't see anything. Now for the tools...I went out to Home Depot and bought a set of HuskyPro Double Box-End "Racheting" Wrenches. These little gems were a godsend and made quick work of those pesky 10mm bolts. If only I had these available when I started the project, I would have saved myself a lot of grief and time. Good luck! 
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Houston, Tx Got traction?
CI 5-6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08
Best of luck on your fix, but it sounds to me like you didn't get the arm correctly orientated to the motor. But, i've never seen this problem, so this is only a guess.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Los Angeles CA
thank you guys but how would the arm orientation be related to the light going up and down like a yoyo? If it is off a little wouldnt the adjusting of the light thing (screwing it down or up a little) have fixed it? which id didnt. so are you saying i should unscrew the bolt with the light lever and reatach it? i'm confused!
david
david
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
I just did both gear replacements on a 2002 and confronted the same challenges. There are three 10mm bolts bracing the motor to the bracket and a 4th one bolting the actuator arm to the spindle of the motor. I elected to remove the motor without removing the entire assembly. Once I had the right tools to do the job, I found the most challenging thing was re-installing the actuator arm in the proper orientation. You have to do this by feel because you can't see anything. Now for the tools...I went out to Home Depot and bought a set of HuskyPro Double Box-End "Racheting" Wrenches. These little gems were a godsend and made quick work of those pesky 10mm bolts. If only I had these available when I started the project, I would have saved myself a lot of grief and time. Good luck!
hmm okay so you experienced the same thing I had and you are saying you fixed the problem by adjusting the actuator arm. Well how do i know when it is in the right place and what confuses me is why would having the actuator arm off just a hair cause such anarchy with the headlight? I looked at the opposing light actuator arm and it looked almost the same.
Another thing that raised my eyebrow was the the headlight when closed does not sit flush meaning it sticks up maybe 1/8 of an inch. I tried using the adjuster to wind the light down but it was as far down as possible.
Is this the result of the actuator arm being off? I'm having a hard time figuring out where and how i should be ? Remember when im working on the headlight the headlight is completely open and the other one that isnt being worked on is completely shut. So when I'm done tightening the bolts on the light im working on I then have to use the adjuster to lower the light.
Is this the right thing I should be doing? Please help me!!!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Surprise Arizona
hmm okay so you experienced the same thing I had and you are saying you fixed the problem by adjusting the actuator arm. Well how do i know when it is in the right place and what confuses me is why would having the actuator arm off just a hair cause such anarchy with the headlight? I looked at the opposing light actuator arm and it looked almost the same.
Another thing that raised my eyebrow was the the headlight when closed does not sit flush meaning it sticks up maybe 1/8 of an inch. I tried using the adjuster to wind the light down but it was as far down as possible.
Is this the result of the actuator arm being off? I'm having a hard time figuring out where and how i should be ? Remember when im working on the headlight the headlight is completely open and the other one that isnt being worked on is completely shut. So when I'm done tightening the bolts on the light im working on I then have to use the adjuster to lower the light.
Is this the right thing I should be doing? Please help me!!!!!
Another thing that raised my eyebrow was the the headlight when closed does not sit flush meaning it sticks up maybe 1/8 of an inch. I tried using the adjuster to wind the light down but it was as far down as possible.
Is this the result of the actuator arm being off? I'm having a hard time figuring out where and how i should be ? Remember when im working on the headlight the headlight is completely open and the other one that isnt being worked on is completely shut. So when I'm done tightening the bolts on the light im working on I then have to use the adjuster to lower the light.
Is this the right thing I should be doing? Please help me!!!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
I don't know if this is going to help, but I'll give it a shot. First off, I think one of your assumptions is correct...if the actuator arm is reinstalled correctly, you should be able to manually raise and lower the light thru its normal range of motion. If you can't, that would suggest some kind of a mechanical problem in the way the motor was reinstalled and/or how the actuator arm was bolted back on. I thought it was a little difficult making sure that the arm was fully mated up with the spindle of the motor before trying to tighten up the bolt. This is because I had to do it by feel because I couldn't see it. It took a little doing to find that sweet spot where the end of the arm was properly seated over the spindle. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I also disconnected the power running to the motor before doing any work and didn't reconnect until I had finished the job and had manually tested the headlight going up and down. Hope this helps
if I remove the arm actuator and I turn on the lights is the motor suppose to keep going? or is it suppose to stop at a point?
I did this and my light motor keep going and going. and when i turned off it switched directions and kept going. I am assuming that the arm will provide a stop?
if my arm is bending the proper way and when it reaches the top it straightens. this is where it is suppose to stop but mine doesnt it straightens and then it rebends and goes the opposite way,, the way its not suppose to go. then when it reaches the bottom it starts the whole thing over again
what exactly stops the actuator arm at the top?? I'm confused
david
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
I GOT IT I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!
i had to take the actuator lever off the motor spindle and put it back about 10 times and I finally found the magical sweet spot and it works. I hope that it will stay that way.
You know what sometimes when things are such a struggle you appreciate them so much more when you fix it!
i want to thank EVERYONE for their responses and their advice thank you guys a LOT.
Cheers,
david
i had to take the actuator lever off the motor spindle and put it back about 10 times and I finally found the magical sweet spot and it works. I hope that it will stay that way.
You know what sometimes when things are such a struggle you appreciate them so much more when you fix it!
i want to thank EVERYONE for their responses and their advice thank you guys a LOT.
Cheers,
david
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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From: Los Angeles CA
oman its started back up again.
after getting the actuator lever working now the light sometimes gets stuck in the on position. I lubed all moving parts but same problem.
I have a new brass gear. actuator arm is aligned so it doesnt flip backwards anymore. all parts are lubed. but it still gets stuck in on position sometimes.
any suggestions? i'm out of them myself
after getting the actuator lever working now the light sometimes gets stuck in the on position. I lubed all moving parts but same problem.
I have a new brass gear. actuator arm is aligned so it doesnt flip backwards anymore. all parts are lubed. but it still gets stuck in on position sometimes.
any suggestions? i'm out of them myself
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: Surprise Arizona
The only thing I can think of is that you don't have the actuator arm properly seated onto the spindle. Since you can't see what you are doing, you have to do it by feel. It took me multiple trys to get it right. It is possible to tighten down the bolt holding the arm onto the spindle thinking you have it right when in fact you haven't mated it up correctly. In such a case, it may work for a short time but ultimately will start slipping. This MAY be your issue. Otherwise, you got me. Good luck!