Seat Problem
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,890
Likes: 0
From: FL
Seat Problem
I believe that the rocking refers to the seat going horizontal back and forth as in the rails being loose.
However, on my drivers seat there is a true rocking motion that happens if I lean all of my weight forward or backward.
Is there an easy fix for this?
However, on my drivers seat there is a true rocking motion that happens if I lean all of my weight forward or backward.
Is there an easy fix for this?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 21
From: Waldorf MD
I believe you are describing the same problem. The problem is the rubber bushings in the track wear out. The solution is to replace them with metal spacers/squared washers. Maybe your front and/or rear are not gone completely, creating a rocking motion.
Do a search, you will find many fixes. Some newer fixes do it without taking out the plastic *****, I would try this method.
Do a search, you will find many fixes. Some newer fixes do it without taking out the plastic *****, I would try this method.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 21
From: Waldorf MD
Here is one fix that sounds good, I have NOT done it myself.
Although I have the rocking seat, I am tall enough that I just jamb the seat back against the back of the car (need the leg room anyway).
--------------------------------
Final rocking seat fix
I am not sure if I replied to everyone so here is the write up.
Sorry No photo's.
1. Remove the four bolts that hold the seat to the car. 15 mm socket.
( move the seat all the way back to remove the front bolts, then
move the seat all the way to the front to remove the rear bolts.)
2. Raise the rear of the seat as high as it will go. This is needed to get
to the rear # 40 torx bolt.
The torx bolts are hard to get to. I had to use a vise grip clamped to
the torx to get them loose. My torx set is for a socket ratchet.
You may be able to find the ones that look like an allen wrench.
3. Before you remove the seat move it to the middle of the track.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector. Hard to do. Took as much time
as all above.
5. Remove the seat. I placed mine upside down on a card table.
Had a piece of cardboard on the floor so not to get the top of the
seat dirty.
6. Most Important step. Make some marks with a marker on the tracks
were the two #20 torx bolts are.
I ran a line from one side to the other. Making a line on both sliding
tracks.
This will help you get the tracks back in alignment. I did not do this
on the first seat and had a lot of trouble getting them back in
were they were to start. Will bind and seat will not move.
7. Remove the two # 20 torx bolts. ( do one track at a time )
8. Remove the # 40 torx.
9. Now you can remove the screw track. Move the tracks back and
forth, it will slide out.
10. Unthread the silver block. You can also try counting turns, It will get
you close to were you began. I also wrapped some electrical tape
around the screw rod to help get back to the same spot.
You will see the destroyed rubber stops that cause the rocking and
slop in the track.
11. I used nylon washers 3 each side in each block. I put two in
front and one in back of the silver block. There still will be a little
movement but none is noticed when back in use.
Got the washers from Ace hardware. I took the whole thing down
to Ace and fitted washer till I was happy with the fit.
Size of washers are 7/16 screw 3/4 OD .440 ID. 25 cents each.
12. I also used some bearing grease to repack the block. Had that.
13. Thread the silver block back on the screw rod.
14. Slide the screw rod back in the tracks, you will have to move the tracks back and forth to get it back in place.
15. You will see it needs to go in a bushing and a little rod fits in a slot from the motor that runs the seats.
16. Your marks should line up. If not pull the whole thing out and adjust the block until it lines up. ( a real pain, but if you don't the seat will bind.)
17. Do the other side.
18. Reinstall seat.
19. Drink a beer or Crown and seven.
It took me 3 to 4 hours to complete.
Good luck, it's really not hard, just be in a good frame of mind and take your time.
--------------------
Part 2
Well I did the drivers side today.
It went much easier than the passenger side, but still took from start to driving the car about 3 hours.
Some tips.
1. Raise the rear of the seat as high as it will go. This is so you can get to the bolt. Uses a #40 tork wrench or socket.
2. Mark the rails with a marker before you remove the two # 20 bolts that hold the silver block.
By doing this the track will not bind and will fall right back into place.
3. You do not have to take the tracks apart.
The screw assembly will pull out. You will have to move the track back and forth to get it back in. But it is not hard to do.
I used 3 nylon washer on each block. Got them from Ace hardware.
They were 25 cents each.
No more rocking.
If I can figure out how to post pictures, I have the remains of the old parts or pads.
Acouple were almost in tack.
They are about as thick as electrical tape. No wonder they don't last long.
Hope this helps someone else out.
If I can do this anyone can.
Although I have the rocking seat, I am tall enough that I just jamb the seat back against the back of the car (need the leg room anyway).
--------------------------------
Final rocking seat fix
I am not sure if I replied to everyone so here is the write up.
Sorry No photo's.
1. Remove the four bolts that hold the seat to the car. 15 mm socket.
( move the seat all the way back to remove the front bolts, then
move the seat all the way to the front to remove the rear bolts.)
2. Raise the rear of the seat as high as it will go. This is needed to get
to the rear # 40 torx bolt.
The torx bolts are hard to get to. I had to use a vise grip clamped to
the torx to get them loose. My torx set is for a socket ratchet.
You may be able to find the ones that look like an allen wrench.
3. Before you remove the seat move it to the middle of the track.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector. Hard to do. Took as much time
as all above.
5. Remove the seat. I placed mine upside down on a card table.
Had a piece of cardboard on the floor so not to get the top of the
seat dirty.
6. Most Important step. Make some marks with a marker on the tracks
were the two #20 torx bolts are.
I ran a line from one side to the other. Making a line on both sliding
tracks.
This will help you get the tracks back in alignment. I did not do this
on the first seat and had a lot of trouble getting them back in
were they were to start. Will bind and seat will not move.
7. Remove the two # 20 torx bolts. ( do one track at a time )
8. Remove the # 40 torx.
9. Now you can remove the screw track. Move the tracks back and
forth, it will slide out.
10. Unthread the silver block. You can also try counting turns, It will get
you close to were you began. I also wrapped some electrical tape
around the screw rod to help get back to the same spot.
You will see the destroyed rubber stops that cause the rocking and
slop in the track.
11. I used nylon washers 3 each side in each block. I put two in
front and one in back of the silver block. There still will be a little
movement but none is noticed when back in use.
Got the washers from Ace hardware. I took the whole thing down
to Ace and fitted washer till I was happy with the fit.
Size of washers are 7/16 screw 3/4 OD .440 ID. 25 cents each.
12. I also used some bearing grease to repack the block. Had that.
13. Thread the silver block back on the screw rod.
14. Slide the screw rod back in the tracks, you will have to move the tracks back and forth to get it back in place.
15. You will see it needs to go in a bushing and a little rod fits in a slot from the motor that runs the seats.
16. Your marks should line up. If not pull the whole thing out and adjust the block until it lines up. ( a real pain, but if you don't the seat will bind.)
17. Do the other side.
18. Reinstall seat.
19. Drink a beer or Crown and seven.
It took me 3 to 4 hours to complete.
Good luck, it's really not hard, just be in a good frame of mind and take your time.
--------------------
Part 2
Well I did the drivers side today.
It went much easier than the passenger side, but still took from start to driving the car about 3 hours.
Some tips.
1. Raise the rear of the seat as high as it will go. This is so you can get to the bolt. Uses a #40 tork wrench or socket.
2. Mark the rails with a marker before you remove the two # 20 bolts that hold the silver block.
By doing this the track will not bind and will fall right back into place.
3. You do not have to take the tracks apart.
The screw assembly will pull out. You will have to move the track back and forth to get it back in. But it is not hard to do.
I used 3 nylon washer on each block. Got them from Ace hardware.
They were 25 cents each.
No more rocking.
If I can figure out how to post pictures, I have the remains of the old parts or pads.
Acouple were almost in tack.
They are about as thick as electrical tape. No wonder they don't last long.
Hope this helps someone else out.
If I can do this anyone can.
