Is anybody else having problems installing the double locking rails with A4 seats? There's not enough mounting flexability and the seats won't work with the giant seatbelt studs! I'm getting ready to send all this crap back!

 

Likny

I hope this helps, I will be installing mine as soon as I recieve them, Mine havent shipped yet

 

THis may help too

 

What exactly is the problem you are having?

Are you installing the passenger seat on the driver rails and the drivers seat on the passenger rails? I know it's bass-ackwards but that is what you have to do to get the seats to fit.

 

I know what you're saying. I saw an earlier post with pictures (very well done, by the way to whoever did it), and they mentioned switching the rails, but they were single lockers. Do you do that with double lockers as well?

The first post above was what I was referencing. I'll have the read the second one.

 

From what I can tell you are having a problem with the seat belt stud on the tranny tunnel side binding with the carpet and the bracket wont go down far enough to bolt it down, Correct?

If this is your problem then I had the same problem. What I did is have someone sit in the seat(bolted to the bracket) on the ground or on the carpet inside or where ever. Take the nut and thread it on the stud flush with the end of the stud. Now take a large rubber mallet or if you don't have a rubber mallet you can use a piece of wood(or something to absorb a little shock) and beat the hell out of the stud until the bracket bends in toward the seat. I did this on both of my seats and it greatly improved the fit.

Just so we are clear about what I'm suggesting here are a couple pics.

This first pic is with the Schroth harness test fitted. When I did the pass. side I decided that I could trim a little of the bolt off because there were about three threads showing after I tightened the bolt down(with the Schroth harness not the seat belt receptacle). I threaded my 10x1.50mm die onto the stud after I decided how many threads I wanted to trim off. I threaded the die on to the level I wanted the stud to end up and used a hack saw to cut off the part that was sticking up. I used the die so it would true the threads when I removed it. If you don't have a die you could probably use the bolt but I didn't try this. After I cut the end off I used my dremel to de-burr the end and to make threading the nut a little easier. It may have only saved me about 1/2 inch total but it made it fit. I did the trimming in conjunction with the bending to get max clearance.


In the second pic you see the receptacle test fitted on the bracket. I did not install it like this because it wouldn't fit between the seat and the tunnel.

 

thanks. that's a pretty descent idea, Electron. I considered shaving the bolt but hadn't really considered just bending the bracket. I'm looking at the pics and see that you kept the correct brackets on the correct side, correct? Just used some "modifications."

And, while I'm at it why would corbeau design rails for the c5 and have this issue? Anybody?

 

I did keep the sliders on the correct side. I actually cut the bracket off completely on the Driver side and bolted the harness end to the rear seat bracket bolt. I didn't really notice a difference in the fitment so I didn't do it on the pass. side.

I have no idea why the seat brackets would be designed to not fit from the factory. I guess if you took your carpet out or just cut a rectangle out you might get it to fit properly. I haven't contacted Corbeau about this issue but maybe we should. I know there are a lot of people that would get aggravated and return them.

If you have any more questions feel free to PM me.