How do you launch a C5 A4 ??
place shifter in 3
turn off Traction control (use competitive mode for those that have it)
powerbrake on the starting line to around 1300-1400 rpm; that's all you'll probably be able to get with a stock converter.
release the brake on the 3rd yellow as you push the accelerator all the way to the floor. Don't mash the accelerator, as it might just light up the tires. As I release the brake, by the time I say "a thousand one"... that's the rate I push the accelerator to the floor.

complete mod list:
3.42 rear axle (stock converter)
Z06 air box lid
Oiled OEM style K&N drop-in air filter
gutted pre-cats; but main cats untouched.
Predator tune
factory tires
Last edited by Mike Mercury; Mar 15, 2007 at 11:14 AM.
powerbrake on the starting line to around 1300-1400 rpm; that's all you'll probably be able to get with a stock converter.
release the brake on the 3rd yellow as you push the accelerator all the way to the floor. Don't mash the accelerator, as it might just light up the tires. As I release the brake, by the time I say "a thousand one"... that's the rate I push the accelerator to the floor.

complete mod list:
3.42 rear axle (stock converter)
Z06 air box lid
Oiled OEM style K&N drop-in air filter
gutted pre-cats
Predator tune
factory tires
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Just startin with the auto-C5 I have now
.. I did 3 passes to check out what works with my C5.Runflats suck.. regardless of what you do to launch the car

If you get up on the converter at all, you will hook a little better because you reduce the converter 'flash' shock reducing the torque applied at launch. Do this if you have major traction issues.
If you run somethin sticky in back, just punch it off an idle .. you will get all the converter can give you for a launch.
If you run a cam with a lot of overlap, you will need a bit of rpm to launch at ... 3k or so converter is the ticket to let the motor be into the cam a bit before it locks up and launches the car

As far as burnouts .. street tires dont need 'em. You can burn 'em the length of the track an they are still gonna hook just the same as you just cleanin em off.
Slicks need to get hot to hook best, you can tell they're 'right' when they start pushin the car outta the water

-Frank
powerbrake on the starting line to around 1300-1400 rpm; that's all you'll probably be able to get with a stock converter.
release the brake on the 3rd yellow as you push the accelerator all the way to the floor. Don't mash the accelerator, as it might just light up the tires. As I release the brake, by the time I say "a thousand one"... that's the rate I push the accelerator to the floor.

complete mod list:
3.42 rear axle (stock converter)
Z06 air box lid
Oiled OEM style K&N drop-in air filter
gutted pre-cats
Predator tune
factory tires
BUT.. i turn the t/c off and i start out in 1st and work it up. plus i drop the tire press too
but i would try your own way til you find what best for you
1) Put the car in "3" (nothing else -- you will not be able to manually shift it properly, these shifters stink)
2) Go into competition mode -- no wheel hop with runflats you just burn up the tires
3) Go around the water box, but do warm up the tires.. It does help the runflats are very hard tires tires so warming them up helps a little -- and its fun. (I experimented with both and decided this was best)
4) Get the RPM up to just over idle -- around 1100rpm
5) On the third yellow lay into the pedal. I have gotten 1.9xx 60' times on run flats with that method
That is all you need to do.
The only differences between a pass in ruflats vs drag radials is that I turn comp mode off and I go through the water box.
Last edited by chaase; Mar 15, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
*place A4 in 3
* turn off TC but leave AH active on (if your C5 has the competitive mode)
I will edit my earlier post.
I totally disagree with leaving TC active . In theory this sounds good, but the C5 TC is not optimized for racing applications. It`s an ice/snow traction system.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; Mar 15, 2007 at 11:12 AM.






Do not try to heat your tires up!
Do not go through the water box! (You'll also have water on the front tires and on launch you'll drive right through the front tire water!)
Get up to the light and stage the Vette (two top yellow lights will light up) STOP!
Put one foot on brake and one on the accelerator pedal and bring the RPM's up to about 1700
Watch the tree and on the THIRD yellow stab the accelerator(By the time you move you will have a GREEN light and will not RED light)
You'll cut a good reaction time this way!
Run the vette WOT all they way to the end and then collect your time slip at the booth and BE SAFE! and Have FUN!
Thanks,Matt
I never went through the water. I have heard over and over to not go in the water with street tires.
I never heated the tires, but I did not have runflats.
I did do the break torque.
I did smack the accelerator rather than squeeze it. I got some wheel spin. With the GN that helped bring up the turbo quicker. I turned in the 14.4 and 96 mph with 80k on the car.
how much tire spin can I expect off the line, after I let go of the brake (assuming they are aleady spinning before I let off the brake)















