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on this topic of clutch fluid... can synthetic fluids for sale in most stores mix with brake and clutch fluid already in the car? it seems there's more of a selection of synthetic fluids than regular ones. i wanted to change out clutch and brake fluid (car is a '02 and i doubt fluid has ever been changed), but i wasnt sure if synthetic fluid could be used for both clutch and brake.
on this topic of clutch fluid... can synthetic fluids for sale in most stores mix with brake and clutch fluid already in the car? it seems there's more of a selection of synthetic fluids than regular ones. i wanted to change out clutch and brake fluid (car is a '02 and i doubt fluid has ever been changed), but i wasnt sure if synthetic fluid could be used for both clutch and brake.
The word "synthetic" on a can of brake fluid is more marketing than anything new in the content. So there is no issue in adding brake fluid marked "synthetic" to your car.
GM is still specifying DOT3 for the brakes and on the C6 and C6Z, DOT4 for the clutch.
When I bled the brakes on my 02 Z06 I used ATE SuperBlue Racing DOT4. In the clutch I used Prestone DOT4. Same can is now pominently labeled as synthetic. Working fine in my C6Z too.
We I to bleed the brakes on the C6Z, I'd probably go back to ATE SuperBlue. Wouldn't use it in the clutch, due to its dark color.
Whatever you are using in your brake system you should use in your clutch reservoir. That way, you can't mix them up by accident, and you only have to carry one type of fluid around or keep one type of brake fluid in your garage. If you do Ranger's "turkey baster" clutch reservoir cleanout on a regular basis, you really don't need to bleed the clutch.
Was there a problem when you used the Preston DOT3 brake fluid for your clutch? That's what I bought.
Prestone DOT3 worked fine in my 02 Z06. I changed it very often. Never had a pedal issue. When you buy you next cans, change over to DOT4, though. Price is about the same and the boiling points are higher. A minor improvement.
Prestone DOT3 worked fine in my 02 Z06. I changed it very often. Never had a pedal issue. When you buy you next cans, change over to DOT4, though. Price is about the same and the boiling points are higher. A minor improvement.
Ranger
CAN U JUST SUCK OUT THE DOT3 WITH TURKEY BASTER AND START PUTTIN DOT 4 IN OR DOES IT MESS IT UP TO MIX EM THAT WAY?
Suggest reading the label on the can. Generally, it will state that the DOT4 is compatible with DOT3.
If you are just beginning a clutch fluid maintenance regime, a good way to start is by doing 5-10 changes of the reservoir, each followed by 10-20 pumps of the clutch pedal. See my link to the protocol above.
Can be done in a half-hour for about $5.
As for a turkey baster, forget about it. Get the Mix Miser. See thumbnail image. Available at Walmart, AutoZone, PepBoys, etc.
Suggest reading the label on the can. Generally, it will state that the DOT4 is compatible with DOT3.
If you are just beginning a clutch fluid maintenance regime, a good way to start is by doing 5-10 changes of the reservoir, each followed by 10-20 pumps of the clutch pedal. See my link to the protocol above.
Can be done in a half-hour for about $5.
As for a turkey baster, forget about it. Get the Mix Miser. See thumbnail image. Available at Walmart, AutoZone, PepBoys, etc.
Ranger
KEWEL! BUT MY TURKEY BASTER WAS .99 AT DOLLAR STORE
I BEEN DOING IT NOW FOR OVER A WEEK NOW AND THEN ...
IT S ALMOST CLEAR!
ATE SuperBlue Racing DOT4; too dark to reveal a color change when degraded.
Valvoline Synpower, dislike this fluid as it leeched to black almost immediately.
Ranger
That's interesting. I use Valvoline Synpower in my clutch reservoir and it doesn't leach to black at all. The fluid in the syringe in your picture looks horrible. I've never even been close to fluid that dirty.
I don't use the ATE SuperBlue because over time it stains the reservoir. I know it's popular to use the Blue then on the next brake flush use Gold so you can see when you're completely flushed. I don't do that. I was using Motul RBF600 in brakes and clutch but it has a caramel color and is hard to tell when it is dirty in the clutch. Easy to tell when you cook it on track and bleed some off the calipers.
I do about 8 HPDE(s)/year and my clutch fluid never looks nasty after an event. Just a little darker and there is a bit of dark crap in the bottom of the reservoir. Suck it all out and wipe clean and refill. So far I have no clutch problems.
I first read Ranger's fluid change procedure right after I bought my Z 2 months ago. It only had 13,8xx on it and the fluid was black. I have never had a clutch problem so I followed his instructions exactly using the Mixmiser and Prestone DOT4. It took about two weeks before it wouldn't get dark again after a day or so of driving and I check it almost every day. Now its almost perfectly clear and I still change it about once a week. I just don't want any problems.
Thank you for the great advise Ranger, you're a great help to us all!
^^^ Thanks for the kind words, Justin. Keeping that clutch fluid clean will usually innoculate the car from pedal woes. Absence of pedal woes, give the tranny a better chance of a long, trouble-free life too.
I read Rangers posts long ago about the clutch fluid changing methods & have followed tham ever since. I wasnt having problems then, but why tempt fate? I have been using the Prestone DOT4 also. I like the results. Thanks for the good info you provide on this site Ranger.
Ranger I wanted to thank you for the all the help you put on this forum, I haven't had any issues with my clutch either but I’m changing it from a regular basis now.
Better to avoid problems if you can, or try to minimize them.
I only ask cause you seem to have some info on this subject and I'm getting at the end of my search for finding an answer. But why is the clutch fluid on these cars so delicate? I mean, it seems as though the hydraulic system is far enough away from any exhaust or engine parts to avoid cooking yet I have to change out my fluid almost every week to two weeks if I drive it anything but gingerly. I have all new master, slave & clutch kit parts installed, the Carolina clutch bleed kit and the system flushed every oil change (2500 miles) max. Yet even with all this I still find that the fluid turns not dark, but BLACK and the pedal gets stuck half way down on hard runs (6500rpm) hits & or long distance stop and go. It just seems to be an issue with these cars that from what I read ahs followed the new Z06. (which now uses dot4). Not to rant any further but if anyone has info on this other then what is listed on those links it would be great. Is their some hydraulic upgrade that can replace this failed system once and for all?
I only ask cause you seem to have some info on this subject and I'm getting at the end of my search for finding an answer. But why is the clutch fluid on these cars so delicate? I mean, it seems as though the hydraulic system is far enough away from any exhaust or engine parts to avoid cooking yet I have to change out my fluid almost every week to two weeks if I drive it anything but gingerly....
...if anyone has info on this other then what is listed on those links it would be great. Is their some hydraulic upgrade that can replace this failed system once and for all?
There are many theories as to why the LSx-motor stock clutches, which are made by LuK, have a propensity to pedal woes, unless the hydraulic fluid is kept very clean and fresh. And there has never been an official published explanation from LuK or GM in the ten year run of the LS-series motor.
On the LS2/7 motor, GM did take a step in the direction that heat is the causative issue, when it switched to DOT4 fluid in the clutch, while keeping DOT3 in the brakes, and it began heat-shielding the hydraulic lines from the master cylinder to the slave.
But I do know as a fact is those GM steps are not enough. I still need to keep my LS7 clutch fluid pristine to avoid pedal woes on shifts. So I accept this small inconvenience as simply a routine maintenance item made necessary by the personality of the car (clutch).
I don't know anyone that pushes a LuK-made clutch through launches and repeated high-rpm shifts, that hasn't faced pedal issues.