Lowering my c5
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,783
Likes: 15
From: Hurricane Alley
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 30,594
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From: Bonita Springs, Florida
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 18
From: Henderson NV
Originally Posted by Pizzano
http://www.2phast.com/Corvette/lower.htm
Above is a detailed Pictures included procedure for removing the front bolt, along with that I will give you my procedure
Front Lowering:
First you will have to have the vehicle supported by 2 jack stands under the front crossmember.
You will be using 2 jacks for the procedure(easieast way)
(1) jack that will support the lower ball joint/control arm, and a smaller jack with a small piece of wood for protection while using it to jack/add tension to the front leaf spring.
First off with front tires off, remove the upper control arm 4 bolts(make sure to note if any washers/spacers come out from behind each bolt, and to put them back the exact way they were installed), with the upper control arm loose(support caliper so brake line is not pulled to tight), I also found out it is easier to get the 10mm socket on the lowering bolt if the lower shock bolts are removed, With this in consideration (while you jack the lower ball joint/control arm, position the jack so that you can still get to the lower shock nuts>youll see what i mean<.
The reason for 2 jacks is while your Lowering the lower control arm/ball joint, your going to want to put tension on the front leaf spring, to seperate the spring so that the adjustment bolt backs its self out.
Use the 10mm socket until you cant catch the nut any futher, then you will have to put tension on the spring and lower the Lower control arm all the way, this will give you enough room to back out the adjustment bolt by hand the rest of the way
Once the bolt is removed, you will be raising the Lower ball joint/control arm and relieving the tension on the spring, when there is just enough gap between the spring and lower control arm, insert your gasket material(piece of rubber, or what I did was go to Lowes/Homedepot, and in the plumbing department they have these polyurethane couplers(black)to connect like 6" pvc, Just buy one coupler, and cut 2 pieces out of it for your cushion)
Once this is done, bolt the upper control back up, I do believe the torque is 53ft/lbs,Ill also send you a link showing all torques specs for the C5
http://www.metricchemical.com/C5torque.pdf
The Rear:
Jack up the rear crossmember, leaving wheels on and hanging , or you can remove the wheels.
Remove the adjustable bolts completey,(dont worry, the spring is not under load).
Simply reuse the factory bushings in the same matter they came off as, Install your new bolts/washers/nuts
(grade 8, 7" 1/2"-13 bolt)
(grade 8 1/2" nylon lock nuts)
(grade 8 washers)
these can be found at a local bolt warehouse(I havent found this size at any Home depot or Lowes)
Or for online ordering go to www.boltdepot.com
Once the new bolts are installed , just tighten the nuts with the same amount of threads showing on each side, and go from there as far as how low/high you need to go,(the lesser amount of threads will be lowering the vehicle, the greater amount of threads showing will be raising the vehicle).
Hope this helps
Kevin
http://www.2phast.com/Corvette/lower.htm
Above is a detailed Pictures included procedure for removing the front bolt, along with that I will give you my procedure
Front Lowering:
First you will have to have the vehicle supported by 2 jack stands under the front crossmember.
You will be using 2 jacks for the procedure(easieast way)
(1) jack that will support the lower ball joint/control arm, and a smaller jack with a small piece of wood for protection while using it to jack/add tension to the front leaf spring.
First off with front tires off, remove the upper control arm 4 bolts(make sure to note if any washers/spacers come out from behind each bolt, and to put them back the exact way they were installed), with the upper control arm loose(support caliper so brake line is not pulled to tight), I also found out it is easier to get the 10mm socket on the lowering bolt if the lower shock bolts are removed, With this in consideration (while you jack the lower ball joint/control arm, position the jack so that you can still get to the lower shock nuts>youll see what i mean<.
The reason for 2 jacks is while your Lowering the lower control arm/ball joint, your going to want to put tension on the front leaf spring, to seperate the spring so that the adjustment bolt backs its self out.
Use the 10mm socket until you cant catch the nut any futher, then you will have to put tension on the spring and lower the Lower control arm all the way, this will give you enough room to back out the adjustment bolt by hand the rest of the way
Once the bolt is removed, you will be raising the Lower ball joint/control arm and relieving the tension on the spring, when there is just enough gap between the spring and lower control arm, insert your gasket material(piece of rubber, or what I did was go to Lowes/Homedepot, and in the plumbing department they have these polyurethane couplers(black)to connect like 6" pvc, Just buy one coupler, and cut 2 pieces out of it for your cushion)
Once this is done, bolt the upper control back up, I do believe the torque is 53ft/lbs,Ill also send you a link showing all torques specs for the C5
http://www.metricchemical.com/C5torque.pdf
The Rear:
Jack up the rear crossmember, leaving wheels on and hanging , or you can remove the wheels.
Remove the adjustable bolts completey,(dont worry, the spring is not under load).
Simply reuse the factory bushings in the same matter they came off as, Install your new bolts/washers/nuts
(grade 8, 7" 1/2"-13 bolt)
(grade 8 1/2" nylon lock nuts)
(grade 8 washers)
these can be found at a local bolt warehouse(I havent found this size at any Home depot or Lowes)
Or for online ordering go to www.boltdepot.com
Once the new bolts are installed , just tighten the nuts with the same amount of threads showing on each side, and go from there as far as how low/high you need to go,(the lesser amount of threads will be lowering the vehicle, the greater amount of threads showing will be raising the vehicle).
Hope this helps
Kevin
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Someone mentioned recently that a 9/16" bolt was actually closer to the oem rear 14mm bolt. That member recommended using the 9/16" (fine or coarse thread) over the smaller 1/2-13" bolt for strength and better fit into the rear bushings.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,167
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From: Kempner TX
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
When I lowered mine, I drove it for about three months (3000 miles) and the front tires were showing some wear on the inside of each tire. I would suggest you get an alignment because tires are in no way cheap! Good luck with lowering it. You will see that its actually a lot easier than you think it is.
