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[Z06] grinding rotors

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Old May 27, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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Default grinding rotors

I heard a rumor that the z06 rotors could not be ground... any truth to this?
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Old May 27, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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Not exactly true. New rotors are so cheap it just makes more financial sense to buy new rotors then to have them turned.
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Old May 27, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Old May 27, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL

Thanks for the help. I'm just replacing the stock (black dust generators) with ceramic pads. There is very little ware on the pads or rotors, but I want to clean therotors up before putting on the new pads. You have a good pointbut I can't bring myself to throughing out good rotors. For that matter i'm still keeping the stock pads; for what, i don't known. Black rims and fenders may come into style some day...
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Old May 28, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by randy lavigne
Thanks for the help. I'm just replacing the stock (black dust generators) with ceramic pads. There is very little ware on the pads or rotors, but I want to clean therotors up before putting on the new pads. You have a good pointbut I can't bring myself to throughing out good rotors. For that matter i'm still keeping the stock pads; for what, i don't known. Black rims and fenders may come into style some day...
I understand the pad change, I did it at less than 2k miles. As for the rotors, there is no need to replace if not grooved up badly, unless they are warped alot. I know they are different than C5 brakes, but I bought new Bendix rotors for my Tahoe, and they were pulsing like warped rotors within 1 week. I put up with it for 6 months thinking it was something else, then decided to have them turned instead of returning them. The brake shop said they have to turn quite a few new rotors, even big brand name ones, to get them right. Makes me think twice about replacing good ones for sure!
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Old May 29, 2007 | 07:02 AM
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To clean a rotor just spay on brake cleaner and wipe them off.

Rotors pulse do to improper brake pad material deposition. i.e. the rotors or pads were not bedded in properly. warping is a myth.

Rotors do need to be bedded with the brake pads that you are going to use.

Do 4-5 easy 40-5 mph slow downs
then 3-5 hard 40-5 mph stops ( Get on that ABS)
then 3-5 80-5 mph stops ( Get on that ABS )

and if you have the nads, 3-5 100 to 5 mph stops. ( also get on that ABS )

Drive around for 30-40 min to cool your brakes and put car way for 24 hours to finish the brake cooling.

Rember

straight line brakeing only
quite to no traffic roads
day timeonly.

Good luck and be safe
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Old May 29, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by randy lavigne
Thanks for the help. I'm just replacing the stock (black dust generators) with ceramic pads. There is very little ware on the pads or rotors, but I want to clean therotors up before putting on the new pads. You have a good pointbut I can't bring myself to throughing out good rotors. For that matter i'm still keeping the stock pads; for what, i don't known. Black rims and fenders may come into style some day...
There are a lot of posts about this. If you are going to drive at HPDEs or very hard on the street you will loose brakes (fade) at some point with the ceramics. The pads on the Z06 are racing pads which is why they squeel and dust so badly. If your not going to drive hard... well then no problem... but then why did you get a Z06?
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Ceramic brake pads are for easy normal no spirited braking.

Under normal conditions Ceramic brake pads take 5% longer to stop. When heated up and repeated stopping that can increast to 12-15% longer or not at all.

DO NOT use ceramic brake pads for any performance braking and NEVER ON TRACK.

Brake dust is a way of life, get use to it and wash your car.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Default Not true

I had mine done once before upgrading into a 2-piece rotors. The issue is finding a place that will do it for you. I originally went to a local shop & was turned down. So I waited for my friend who has a shop & the equipment to do it. He did & no problem. I ran that original rotors until the very end before I upgraded.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
To clean a rotor just spay on brake cleaner and wipe them off.

Rotors pulse do to improper brake pad material deposition. i.e. the rotors or pads were not bedded in properly. warping is a myth.

Rotors do need to be bedded with the brake pads that you are going to use.

Do 4-5 easy 40-5 mph slow downs
then 3-5 hard 40-5 mph stops ( Get on that ABS)
then 3-5 80-5 mph stops ( Get on that ABS )

and if you have the nads, 3-5 100 to 5 mph stops. ( also get on that ABS )

Drive around for 30-40 min to cool your brakes and put car way for 24 hours to finish the brake cooling.

Rember

straight line brakeing only
quite to no traffic roads
day timeonly.

Good luck and be safe

Great advice

I went with the ceramic pads, as driving in metro Atlanta does not lend itself to any real spirited driving. I find the ceramics are fine for around town, and still far better than most brake systems.

The lack of dust is a big plus to me, I stopped next to a Jaguar convertable the other day ata light, and its front rims were the biggest mess I ever have seen. Either they must be great brakes or that person should not be allowed to own an expensive car like that, GET IT WASHED They were black
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Old May 29, 2007 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by VCC_Mike
Not exactly true. New rotors are so cheap it just makes more financial sense to buy new rotors then to have them turned.
Right on. NAPA sels them for $27 each. Mine were labeled Made in Canada. If they were made in China I wouldn't use them. But then, maybe the Chinese put the Canada label on, knowing how I happen to feel about that issue.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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BTW rotors can be ground or turned. Most garages have the capability to turn your rotors but it is becoming increasingly less cost effective to do so.
Grinding rotors is a different story. Grinding rotors requires special equipment and is the final finish on most new rotors today.
The difference is that in turning the rotors a pointed carbide tool is put on each side of the rotor and as the rotor turns the pointed tools are fed in at a constant rate cutting the rotor as they go.
Grinding is done with a large grinding wheel that is spinning very fast. The rotor which is held in a very precise fixture is turned slowly. The grinding wheel is brought into contact with the rotor and cuts the surface perfectly flat.The ground rotor may rotate only 10 or 20 times to get finished, while the turned rotor may have to turn 10-20 thousand times for the cut to travel the whole distance of the face. This is why they now grind rotors and why rotors are getting cheaper to make and are better quality.
You can see the difference. A turned rotor will look like a record with very small grooves running radialy around the face of the rotor. A ground rotor will have a criss cross patern on the face which kind of look like big radiused Xs on the rotor.
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