Rotor question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham Al
Rotor question
I know this issue has been beaten to death on the forum. However, I am about to purchase rotors this week and need some final help.
I have the dreaded "pulsating" brakes, and it is annoying me to no end. I only gently drive my car on the street and NEVER race or abuse it. I want to get slotted rotors to prevent pulsating in the future.
I found slotted rotors on the "sportbrakes" website for $260.00 PLUS SHIPPING. The most cost effective rotors on "tirerack" are almost twice the price. I am not interested in "bling" for the car, just good street rotors for my car.
Here is my question:
Are the sportbrakes the best/cost effective rotors for my car?
thanks in advance.
I have the dreaded "pulsating" brakes, and it is annoying me to no end. I only gently drive my car on the street and NEVER race or abuse it. I want to get slotted rotors to prevent pulsating in the future.
I found slotted rotors on the "sportbrakes" website for $260.00 PLUS SHIPPING. The most cost effective rotors on "tirerack" are almost twice the price. I am not interested in "bling" for the car, just good street rotors for my car.
Here is my question:
Are the sportbrakes the best/cost effective rotors for my car?
thanks in advance.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 1
From: Lincoln Nebraska
I recently replaced my rotors with some I purchased on a problematic GP on this forum last year from Wholesale parts direct, I do not recommend them!
I have heard the SportBrakes are a good brand though.
One thing to make sure you do correct after replacing them is seasoning....very important! I had the same pulsating brake problems....even after replacing the rotors I could still feel it! I didn't really think the seasoning would solve it but I followed the instructions to the letter and lo and behold it did work! The braking is perfect now! By the way I did not replace the pads at the same time as I had plenty of wear left on my ceramics pads. Good luck and hear is a link to the seasoning instructions.
http://www.baer.com/technical/brakin...rseasoning.php
I have heard the SportBrakes are a good brand though.
One thing to make sure you do correct after replacing them is seasoning....very important! I had the same pulsating brake problems....even after replacing the rotors I could still feel it! I didn't really think the seasoning would solve it but I followed the instructions to the letter and lo and behold it did work! The braking is perfect now! By the way I did not replace the pads at the same time as I had plenty of wear left on my ceramics pads. Good luck and hear is a link to the seasoning instructions.
http://www.baer.com/technical/brakin...rseasoning.php
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 25
From: If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door. South West Florida / Livin' The Dream
St. Jude Donor '12
I installed S/D Sportbrakes about 4 months ago for the bling and am very happy with them.
You stated that you want to change rotors and your not really interested in the bling factor. In that case I would buy a regular rotor from NAPA. I've seen posts from folk's on here that say you can get each rotor for about $30. Also don't be gentle with the brakes, use them. They actually work better when they are not babied.
You stated that you want to change rotors and your not really interested in the bling factor. In that case I would buy a regular rotor from NAPA. I've seen posts from folk's on here that say you can get each rotor for about $30. Also don't be gentle with the brakes, use them. They actually work better when they are not babied.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
If you wish to continue to use the OEM pads (They ARE excellent pads, after all), then stay away from blank rotors. The combination of sticky pads and flat rotors not only result in uneven pad deposits (which cause pulsating brakes), but also will result in glazed pads - a leading cause of longer stops over time. This especially true if you do not track your car or pile on the miles.
I had the dreaded pulsating brakes by the time I had 6000 miles on my 01. After the dealership turned the rotors, all was good until the odometer reached about 12,000 miles. By this time, I hah had it with blank rotors and bought PowerSlots (Cryo-treated for a harder surface). They ARE more expensive than many run-of-the-mill rotors, but are cadmium-plated (much more durable than zinc-washing) for a very long life.
They are most likely to be the last rotors I will ever have to buy. I have just about 30,000 miles on my car, the pads are always fresh, and pulsating brakes are a distant memory. My advice? Get the best slotted rotors you can afford.
I had the dreaded pulsating brakes by the time I had 6000 miles on my 01. After the dealership turned the rotors, all was good until the odometer reached about 12,000 miles. By this time, I hah had it with blank rotors and bought PowerSlots (Cryo-treated for a harder surface). They ARE more expensive than many run-of-the-mill rotors, but are cadmium-plated (much more durable than zinc-washing) for a very long life.
They are most likely to be the last rotors I will ever have to buy. I have just about 30,000 miles on my car, the pads are always fresh, and pulsating brakes are a distant memory. My advice? Get the best slotted rotors you can afford.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham Al
Thanks so much for the advice, guys....especially Dave68 as I have read (and saved to my hard drive) your extensive posts on rotors in the past.
I may just try more spirited driving for a few weeks to see if that helps the pulsation factor.
Overall, I am not trying to "go cheap" just to save a few hundred. I am in the process of buying new tires tire pressure sensors and brake pads (and I just bought new wheels a few weeks ago).
As you can imagine, the $$$$ pile up quickly when you are upgrading all of the above.
Thanks again for the tips.
I may just try more spirited driving for a few weeks to see if that helps the pulsation factor.
Overall, I am not trying to "go cheap" just to save a few hundred. I am in the process of buying new tires tire pressure sensors and brake pads (and I just bought new wheels a few weeks ago).
As you can imagine, the $$$$ pile up quickly when you are upgrading all of the above.
Thanks again for the tips.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 900
Likes: 38
From: Waunakee Wisconsin
St. Jude Donor '20
Asking about rotors and pads is like asking which tires to buy. Lots and lots of opinons. I just replaced brakes on all corners after reading everything I could find on the subject. Most of what is out there about drilled/slotted rotors is smoke and mirrors vs fact. You have stated looks are not important. Get NAPA rotors for about $125/set. Replace the pads with GM ceramic units from our long time CF friend Gene for the same price. Save your money and start planning your next ungrade. Good luck.
Last edited by waunavet; Jun 3, 2007 at 07:35 AM. Reason: missing word
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
My stock brakes used to pulsate. A couple of hard braking runs will clean them up.
I did 4 runs on a restricted military road of hard braking to the point where ABS would engage. Bring the car up to 80-100mph, then firmly add pressure to the brakes then release the brake pedal at ~20 mph. Coast for a short distance, and repeat.
If you are not comfortable doing this (not an adequate/safe area, or driver ability), then you can take them apart and clean them with some brake cleaner.
The more expensive option is new rotors/pads like you suggested, but eventually the pulsating will return with gentle, daily driver use.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: Plainfield Illinois
Most of the pulsating is caused by build-up of pad material on the rotors. It is usually NOT warped rotors. Very hard stops from 70/80 MPH (to about 20MPH and then lift off and allow to cool) will usually clean the rotors.
ALWAYS try to stop and RELEASE the brake pedal at rest. Keeping your foot on the pedal after stopping will fry your pad material to the rotor, causing the problem.
I had the same problem and burned the rotors a couple of times and it worked well. But it always came back.
I finally bit the bullit and changed rotors and went to ceramic pads. This did away with the brake dust and the pulsating. I'm not sure which was the cure for sure, but I havn't had the problem in the last 30,000 miles.
Good luck!
Zooom
ALWAYS try to stop and RELEASE the brake pedal at rest. Keeping your foot on the pedal after stopping will fry your pad material to the rotor, causing the problem.
I had the same problem and burned the rotors a couple of times and it worked well. But it always came back.
I finally bit the bullit and changed rotors and went to ceramic pads. This did away with the brake dust and the pulsating. I'm not sure which was the cure for sure, but I havn't had the problem in the last 30,000 miles.
Good luck!
Zooom
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,385
Likes: 160
From: Orlando FL
I had light pulsating in my brakes until I paid a visit to The Tail of The Dragon in TN/NC one weekend. No more pulsating brakes and that was 1 1/2 years ago. Now I just hit 'em hard occasionally!!
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: Landisville PA
We recently installed a set of 4 slotted 'sportbrake' rotors. I really like the way they look, and they stop great too. I like the fact that they are zinc dipped, and won't rust as readily as the OE rotors.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham Al
I looked at the website www.brakedesigns.com and they charge less than 160 bucks for a slotted/cross drilled set of zinc dipped rotors.
Seems cheap....almost too cheap. Anyone use them before?
Seems cheap....almost too cheap. Anyone use them before?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
I looked at the website www.brakedesigns.com and they charge less than 160 bucks for a slotted/cross drilled set of zinc dipped rotors.
Seems cheap....almost too cheap. Anyone use them before?
Seems cheap....almost too cheap. Anyone use them before?
"All rotors are drilled and (or) slotted in house. This way you get a better rotor for about the same price as other "lesser quality" rotors."
I got a mental image of some joe schmuck with a drill press with this quote. I personally wouldn't buy brakes from a website that seems to carry brakes for EVERY make and model. Unless that website was Baer, Stoptech, Wilwood etc.
I'd rather pay a little bit more and get something other members are running that is a bit more proven. For a daily driver, NOT USING THE TRACK, drilled is ok. How much do you want to save? It is your brakes after all... the things you need to STOP.
If you really want, just get some rotors from NAPA. They are direct OEM replacements and are VERY affordable.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Clemmons NC
Brake Design Inc.
I purchased 4 slotted rotors from these guys and they are perfect. The extra $$ people spend on " name brand " companies is amazing. These rotors are selling for what rotors should sell for. You will get slotted , zinc, and pads shipped for less than $250.00 . Good stuff .
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
Thanks so much for the advice, guys....especially Dave68 as I have read (and saved to my hard drive) your extensive posts on rotors in the past.
I may just try more spirited driving for a few weeks to see if that helps the pulsation factor.
Overall, I am not trying to "go cheap" just to save a few hundred. I am in the process of buying new tires tire pressure sensors and brake pads (and I just bought new wheels a few weeks ago).
As you can imagine, the $$$$ pile up quickly when you are upgrading all of the above.
Thanks again for the tips.
I may just try more spirited driving for a few weeks to see if that helps the pulsation factor.
Overall, I am not trying to "go cheap" just to save a few hundred. I am in the process of buying new tires tire pressure sensors and brake pads (and I just bought new wheels a few weeks ago).
As you can imagine, the $$$$ pile up quickly when you are upgrading all of the above.
Thanks again for the tips.
I did try the "slamming on the brakes" solution and it does stop the pulsating for a couple of hundred miles, but the same problem will return. In retrospect, I believe the pads are the culprit, although I have read many postings of pulsating brakes woes from those who drive all kinds of cars. The one thing in common all of them have is that they were using blank rotors. I don't care if blank NAPAs are the cheapest rotors I can buy; if I have to slam on the brakes every 1000 miles or change/clean the rotors every year, then I don't want them.
You CAN eliminate pulsating brakes without having to do this. Being very selective about pad material may be one way to avoid it, but the best way is to get slotted rotors. I would avoid cross-drilled, since they do tend to crack if you ever do need to drive aggressively.
Dave