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Hey guys. My 03 Z06 has less than 3500 miles on it, no mods, and is not driven hard at all. I've only owned it for about 7 months and recently noticed a check engine light out of no where. I figured whatever I'll make an appointment with chevy when I can and worry about it then. It was running fine but just had the light on. I was driving down the highway 2 days ago and when I slowed down to a stop off the exit the car did not want to idle. It would dip down into the 300 RPM range and feel like it was shutting itself down. It also had a burning smell out of the exhaust. So I turned around right away and brought it back home to cool down. Later that day I started it up with the same result. I figured maybe it was bad gas and I put some more 93 into it. Started it up again with no luck. I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem. I know it might sounds a little vague but I don't know how else to describe it. If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer if I can.
Go to the sticky at the top of the page and read the FAQ table of contents... you will be able to read any codes set. Then post them and you will probably get plenty of input.
This DTC tests the evaporative emission (EVAP) system for a small leak. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the vacuum decay rate. At an appropriate time, the control module turns the EVAP canister purge valve ON and the EVAP vent valve ON. This allows the engine to draw a vacuum on the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module turns the EVAP canister purge valve OFF, sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine the EVAP system vacuum decay. If the control module detects a leak larger than a calibrated amount, this DTC sets.
P0442 - remove and re-tighten your as cap. Clear the code. If that one re-appears, you have a leak in the EVAP system.
P0300 - emgine misfire - That can be one of several things. I'd start by verifying that all the plug wires are firmly attached at each end, at the coil pack and at the plug. After that, if the engine is still running rough, you want to pull each plug wire and test the engine. Pull wire #1 and start engine. If it is running rougher. Plug and wire #1 are good. Replace and pull #2. You should find one wire that when pulled, the engine runs the same.
If that's the case you have an electrical problem for that cylinder ... bad connection to the coil pack, bad coil pack, bad wire, or bad plug.
IF pulling wires does not find the problem, you most likely have an injector problem.
These engines are pretty reliable, and usually the PCM will throw more codes if it's a bad injector or whatever. I'd lean toward a loose plug wire (or a damaged one.).
Well, it turned out to be a bad spring that went. Now chevy is ripping apart the entire block to make sure it didn't do damage to the block or piston. And to top that off, it's not under warranty.. it's been expired for a year. This is not going to be pretty
Well, it turned out to be a bad spring that went. Now chevy is ripping apart the entire block to make sure it didn't do damage to the block or piston. And to top that off, it's not under warranty.. it's been expired for a year. This is not going to be pretty
Well, it turned out to be a bad spring that went. Now chevy is ripping apart the entire block to make sure it didn't do damage to the block or piston. And to top that off, it's not under warranty.. it's been expired for a year. This is not going to be pretty
Sorry to hear that. I changed the valve springs in mine even though they gave me no trouble because of cases like this.
Was your car built before Jan 2003? (eg 7/02-12/02)?
I don't have the build date and I can't look it up because the car is at the dealer. It was sold 7/12/03. They said it will be done on friday or saturday and cost an estimated $1800. The car is 4 years old and has 3600 miles on it. It should not be having these problems.
you should ask to see this bad spring. did the valve fall in? what else can happen to a spring besides it breaking, it should still keep its shape.
did it not make any noise before this happened?
That is very unfortunate. I have you called GM or Chevrolet to ask for some assistance with ths bill? Don't rely on the service writer to help you out. Call GM direct.
I've considered calling Chevrolet. I might have to call them after I get the bill and the car back. They said Saturday the earliest. I don't know how much good it's going to do though.
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by FourG63 97GST
you should ask to see this bad spring. did the valve fall in? what else can happen to a spring besides it breaking, it should still keep its shape.
did it not make any noise before this happened?
1000% b/c if it was not making bad noise and the valve did not fall I would simply have them replace all springs and be done with it for a minimal bill vs. a huge bill now. Even if the shortblock was damaged you could then take it to another tuner and throw in some performance parts or even buy a new used LS6 motor for cheap and would probalby be ahead of the game. The dealer will HOSE YOU for sure and I would stop all work and only authorize all valve springs being replaced and I would even upgrade your stock Z06 springs to comp 918s and the LS6 springs have failed you once already.
I don't have the build date and I can't look it up because the car is at the dealer.
When you find out, please post it here. Many members have been trying to figure out if there is a pattern to the bad valve springs in terms of production time/model year.