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Did you have it wired to a full time 12v source or a keyed 12v source? It probably should be wired only to a keyed 12v source so it doesn't draw any additional power.
I am really on thin ice on this one, but if you have a CD Amp meter, preferably digital, you can disconnect the negative battery cable, and connect the leads to the Amp meter to the battery cable and the battery post.
This should provide the battery draw at "steady state". Then reconnect your Antenna switch and remeasure. If there is a significant draw, then your switch is your problem.
Before you do this, I suggest you get another forum member to confirm this procedure.
Did you have it wired to a full time 12v source or a keyed 12v source? It probably should be wired only to a keyed 12v source so it doesn't draw any additional power.
I have no clue. I cut the wire for the antenna motor and spliced it into the switch wires provided. It was a completely inline switch.
I think I am going to leave it out for now and get a load test done at AutoZone when I am free next because my dad thinks I have a weak battery too. I mean if we let it sit a week and 1/2 without starting it and without the battery charging hooked up, it pretty much won't start.
My C5 uses an immense amount of electrical energy and I often see the "charging fault" message in the hot summer months when parking with the A/C and the flashers on (my car is a DD and I use it for work), long story short, I am no expert but I did take automotive electricity at the local community college recently (got a B) and I have a pretty good understanding of electricity - my money is on the probability that you ran the battery down doing the install. By the way, NEVER work on an electical circuit while it is "on", not that you will injure yourself in an automotive application, although it is possible to shock yourself under the hood, but you can damage the vehicle computer and/or other delicate components. Even static electricity can damage a car computer and they are very expensive.
My C5 uses an immense amount of electrical energy and I often see the "charging fault" message in the hot summer months when parking with the A/C and the flashers on (my car is a DD and I use it for work), long story short, I am no expert but I did take automotive electricity at the local community college recently (got a B) and I have a pretty good understanding of electricity - my money is on the probability that you ran the battery down doing the install. By the way, NEVER work on an electical circuit while it is "on", not that you will injure yourself in an automotive application, although it is possible to shock yourself under the hood, but you can damage the vehicle computer and/or other delicate components. Even static electricity can damage a car computer and they are very expensive.
Yea I hope I didn't damage the computer, it was making some weird noises while it was recharging
But I am going to get a load test done, and if all is good I am going to reinstall the wires with the car OFF this time, with the battery charger connected and see what happens.
Remember while you had the trunk up, your courtesy lamps were on and if it was dimly lit, your dash lights were on, too. If the battery was a little weak, that might be enough to drain it, but usually not as much as you've seen. It would be really hard to short a wire to a ground in a Corvette, they're hard to come by.