Help...thumping noise after brake pad replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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Help...thumping noise after brake pad replacement
Recently completed a brake pad replacement. Using Hawk pads. Removed the rotors and had them cut.
After putting it all back together, I get a thumping noise when braking (even a mild stop). The only thing I am not sure about is the correct placement of the rear inner pads. i.e. I am not sure if the retaining clip is supposed to point up (towards the body of the car), or down (towards the ground). I marked the front pads, so I know I have those in correctly (retaining clip towards the top).
All bolts are tight for caliper mounting bracket, as well as the callipers. I would like to confirm that I installed the rear inner pads on the correct side (driver's vs. passenger).
Thoughts?
After putting it all back together, I get a thumping noise when braking (even a mild stop). The only thing I am not sure about is the correct placement of the rear inner pads. i.e. I am not sure if the retaining clip is supposed to point up (towards the body of the car), or down (towards the ground). I marked the front pads, so I know I have those in correctly (retaining clip towards the top).
All bolts are tight for caliper mounting bracket, as well as the callipers. I would like to confirm that I installed the rear inner pads on the correct side (driver's vs. passenger).
Thoughts?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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Swapped the inner rear pads from passenger side to driver side and still thumping.
Only thing now is that I did not replace those flimsy rotor retaining washers that you need to break when removing from the stud. I figure the lug nuts would take care of holding the rotor steady.
I am out of ideas...help
Only thing now is that I did not replace those flimsy rotor retaining washers that you need to break when removing from the stud. I figure the lug nuts would take care of holding the rotor steady.
I am out of ideas...help
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 1
From: Lincoln Nebraska
No need to replace the retaining washers, just toss them.
If you removed the rotor during instalation how about something with the parking brake pads and mechanism? Thats where I would look.
If you removed the rotor during instalation how about something with the parking brake pads and mechanism? Thats where I would look.
Scientific Negotiator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,728
Likes: 2,034
From: USA
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'10, '14
Either that or something on the hub before you put the rotor on. Do you know which wheel? I'd just take that one apart, inspect, and put back together..
Good luck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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I have taken the wheel off, and removed and reinstalled the rear pads. I did not go so far as to take the rotors off again, but that may be the next move here.
Doubt it has anything to do with the parking brake. I did not alter or replace those pads.
Sounds like time to take things apart...and start over.
Doubt it has anything to do with the parking brake. I did not alter or replace those pads.
Sounds like time to take things apart...and start over.
Scientific Negotiator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,728
Likes: 2,034
From: USA
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'10, '14
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
Why turn the rotors when you can buy brand new OEM ones from NAPA for about 25 bucks each? I'm guessing you had them turned since you said they were "cut".
Turning them can actually make the rotor worse and it certainly makes them thinner/weaker.
Turning them can actually make the rotor worse and it certainly makes them thinner/weaker.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,743
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From: Omaha Nebraska
St. Jude Donor '06
Did you swap sides on which the rotor is now mounted by chance?? I've had it happen when purchasing a NEW rotor and the ID (center) where it fits over the hub was only a few thousands larger than it should be and that rotor would thump, thump, thump as it went around and then thumped against the hub in the middle once with each revolution. I took it apart more than twice and I put a new caliper bracket on and then I finaly went back to the old rotor. I had it turned and put it back on, no problem.
See if you can see or feel a slight movement between the hub and the center bore of the rotor... It doesn't take much...Drove me NUTS!!
Good luck...
BTW, taking .020 off of each side of a rotor is nothing really...just my 2 cents... a matchbook cover is that thick. Much more and it's usually scrap anyway.
I usually buy new rotors because yes, they are cheap (I buy the better ones) and because it's one less trip to the auto parts store... If they are not overly warped and you can turn them, why not? It's an either/or in my book...
It might be possible you have something behind the rotor that is NOT allowing it to seat up tightly and causing the slop problem on the hub...Making it clunk... Maybe??
See if you can see or feel a slight movement between the hub and the center bore of the rotor... It doesn't take much...Drove me NUTS!!
Good luck...
BTW, taking .020 off of each side of a rotor is nothing really...just my 2 cents... a matchbook cover is that thick. Much more and it's usually scrap anyway.
I usually buy new rotors because yes, they are cheap (I buy the better ones) and because it's one less trip to the auto parts store... If they are not overly warped and you can turn them, why not? It's an either/or in my book...
It might be possible you have something behind the rotor that is NOT allowing it to seat up tightly and causing the slop problem on the hub...Making it clunk... Maybe??
Last edited by VRROOOM2; Jun 13, 2007 at 09:50 PM.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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Woke up a 5:00AM this morning and took the rear callipers and rotors off (again). Inspected the parking brake assembly, made sure rotors are sitting up against the hub, made sure lug nuts are seated and torqued properly....and...same thing!
This one is beyond me....going to take it to the shop. Will report back.
Thanks for the ideas.
This one is beyond me....going to take it to the shop. Will report back.
Thanks for the ideas.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
Just to throw this out there since you are out of ideas, just in case:
Make sure you are torquing the wheels with the car on the ground, not on the jack/jackstands. They should just be slightly more than hand tight when mounting before you lower it down... then torque.
If you torque the wheels while still on the jack or lift, it can create the condition you are describing.
Make sure you are torquing the wheels with the car on the ground, not on the jack/jackstands. They should just be slightly more than hand tight when mounting before you lower it down... then torque.
If you torque the wheels while still on the jack or lift, it can create the condition you are describing.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Torqued the lug nuts on the ground. I would like to think that the noise has nothing to do with the brakes....cause this is a blow to my ego!!
But, it would be an awful coincidence if it was unrelated!
Appointment at the shop tomorrow....stay tuned.
But, it would be an awful coincidence if it was unrelated!
Appointment at the shop tomorrow....stay tuned.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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Car was at the dealer today. They think the rotors were poorly cut, causing the pads to jump around in the callipers, and that the slides in the callipers need to be greased.
In hindsight, defender5 was right.....I should have replaced the rotors. I have never had problems with resurfaced rotors before. It was not a money issue.
Anyway, they wanted $800 to replace the rotors. I told them to grease the slides and put the car back together (1 hour labor), and I would replace the rotors myself.
In hindsight, defender5 was right.....I should have replaced the rotors. I have never had problems with resurfaced rotors before. It was not a money issue.
Anyway, they wanted $800 to replace the rotors. I told them to grease the slides and put the car back together (1 hour labor), and I would replace the rotors myself.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Car was in the dealer this morning. They felt that the pads were rattling in the callipers due to an uneven surface on the rotors, i.e. they wanted to replace the rotors. In addition, they said that the calliper slides need to be lubed. Total cost was to be $800.
I told them to lube the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself. Total cost (including new rotors)...about $200.
In hindsight, I probably should have replaced the rotors right off the bat. Truth is that I have never had problems with resurfaced rotors before, and had I really thought about it, I would have just got new rotors from the get go.
We'll see how the car runs after the slides have been lubed....then make a decision about new rotors.
I told them to lube the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself. Total cost (including new rotors)...about $200.
In hindsight, I probably should have replaced the rotors right off the bat. Truth is that I have never had problems with resurfaced rotors before, and had I really thought about it, I would have just got new rotors from the get go.
We'll see how the car runs after the slides have been lubed....then make a decision about new rotors.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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Car was at the dealer service department today. They felt that the resurfaced rotors were causing the problem. They suggested replacing the rotors, and lubing the slides in the callipers...total cost $800.
Told them to grease the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself...total cost about $250.
Told them to grease the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself...total cost about $250.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 6
From: Los Angeles
Car was at the dealer service department today. They felt that the resurfaced rotors were causing the problem. They suggested replacing the rotors, and lubing the slides in the callipers...total cost $800.
Told them to grease the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself...total cost about $250.
Told them to grease the slides, and that I would take care of replacing the rotors myself...total cost about $250.
They don't call them "stealerships" for nothing huh? Am I reading that right in that not having the dealership put new rotors (the blank ones) on was a 550 dollar difference?
Grease them yourself and buy the four rotors for about 100 bucks at NAPA. They are the SAME.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Landisville PA
I was gonna mention (but its too late).... try spinning each wheel/rotor by hand (without tire/wheel). Poke your noggin in there and see if you can notice where the 'thumping' is coming from. And perhaps use the redneck dial indicator to check the rotors for warping/etc....(WD-40 can with little red straw).
Yeah..I agree...$800 is a lot of money that you can spend somewhere else!!
Yeah..I agree...$800 is a lot of money that you can spend somewhere else!!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
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I paid $126 for them to grease the slides. The brakes are much better now. I am not even sure that I am going to swap out the rotors. In my opinion, the pads will bed in to the rotors, and that will be that.
The cost of the rotors at the dealership was about $110 each! I told the service manager that I could get them at NAPA for $28 each, and he said "you get what you pay for".
I have a shop in mind to work on the car in the future, but when you need something done fast, the dealerships win out. I am taking the car on a six hour trip on Monday on vacation. I will see how things develop, then make a decison about swapping out the rotors.
I am used to working on Porsche brakes (I have had several), and there is no movement in the calipers other than the pistons, so there was never a need to grease anything. I need to gain some experience with this car.
Thanks for the help!
The cost of the rotors at the dealership was about $110 each! I told the service manager that I could get them at NAPA for $28 each, and he said "you get what you pay for".
I have a shop in mind to work on the car in the future, but when you need something done fast, the dealerships win out. I am taking the car on a six hour trip on Monday on vacation. I will see how things develop, then make a decison about swapping out the rotors.
I am used to working on Porsche brakes (I have had several), and there is no movement in the calipers other than the pistons, so there was never a need to grease anything. I need to gain some experience with this car.
Thanks for the help!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,400
Likes: 3
From: Sarasota Florida
I paid $126 for them to grease the slides. The brakes are much better now. I am not even sure that I am going to swap out the rotors. In my opinion, the pads will bed in to the rotors, and that will be that.
I am used to working on Porsche brakes (I have had several), and there is no movement in the calipers other than the pistons, so there was never a need to grease anything. I need to gain some experience with this car.
Thanks for the help!
I am used to working on Porsche brakes (I have had several), and there is no movement in the calipers other than the pistons, so there was never a need to grease anything. I need to gain some experience with this car.
Thanks for the help!