I just wish I had your problem....way too much $$$$$

Nice car though

 

I'd like to see the inercoolersetup w/ the TS facia off. Someone did some serious custom work cutting the front bumper beam to put the intercooler and radiator like they did... looks great.

 

Of course hes talking about on a closed course no one on corvette forum street races geez

I do like the scientific description though

 

Looks like the fuel pump upgrade is coming sooner than later. just got the car running today after redoing the wiring that went up over the tank to the stock fuel pump. My car keeps blowing fuses in the fuse box. We have a 30 amp where the stock 20am goes. I think corvette connection put the boostapump on the same fuse as the stock fuel pump. I could put them all on different fuses, however, the car functioned fine for 8000 miles with this setup, and no problems. Now i cant idle for more than 5 min till it blows... once the car warms up. Leads me to believe one of my pumps is going bad. While im in there, i want to upgrade to the return fuel line system. Which is the best for the money? Will i still use the Kenne Bell boostapump on the new system? Thanks

***this is old info, we did away with the whole stock setup, and boostapump

 

Havent posted in a long time, but here is what's up.

No big brakes yet.
No coil over yet.
No cameras yet.

Heads, springs, rockers-
Took my motor appart and found out corvette connection had put LS1?!?!?! heads on my car, that were slightly ported. I have a set of used afr mongoose heads, and a set of brand new etp 245's with the .700 lift double coil drag springs. I was gonna sell off the etp's and keep the mongoose's to try and make back a few bucks, but instead the etp's are going on.

Problem with the etp's seems to be the rockers i have to use... expensive, not to mention TD and Jesel are on backorder right now. So... talked to Luke at scorpion down in florida, and craig at etp, and they said they have put the scorpions on before, but they were shimmed up either 150 thousandths, or 60 thousandths, and that the back wall of the etp head and the back of the rocker come very close, so i will have to grind the back of the head a bit. So scorpions are on order.

Clutch-
Talked to quite a few companies and people about clutches. Bruce out of illinios was probably the most helpful in educating me and putting me in touch with Ron at RPS out in cali. I then was put down to carolina clutch, and im going with the twin disc carbon clutch, they say they have had it to 850 horse with no slippage yet, so im going to be the guinea pig. This clutch is the only twin disc carbon clutch that also has a carbon floater, other clutches have a steel floater, which is prone to warping under heat and friction, thus killing the clutch early bc of uneven pressure.




Trans and rear-
Picked up a built stage 5 m6 and built rear end with i think 3.45 gears. I still have the unbuilt 2.73 rear and, and am selling the z06 m12 trans i had in the car originally.

Tires-
Im currently running the nitto nt01's up front, and the toyo r888s out back on the stock z06 sized rims. These seem to be the lightest rims availible, so im sticking with them for now. I have another set of c6 reproduction wheels and z rated tires on those.

Supposedly the nitto r888's were subcontracted out to toyo to be made. After making nitto their nt01, toyo took everythign they learned and made the r888. I love the r888 as a rear, it has the tractor tread pattern, and works great, i wish they made them in larger sizes as I plan on running a 12.5 wide by 18 or 19 inch rear wheel here soon, to fill up my new flared fenders by L5 motorsports. The nittos and toyos are different sidewall heights, so ironically, even tho they are mounted 18 inch wheels in back, and 17's up front, the taller sidewall of the nt01 comes out to be the same diameter as the short sidewall 18 inch r888, so right now i have a perfectly ballanced car, and my front tires have a taller sidewall which i like bc its more forgiving over bumps and staying attached to the road. I painted my rims dark graphite gray so they are the color of brake dust to begin with.

Brakes-
I cracked my eradispeed drilled and slotted rotors all over the place, so im going to stock sized stoptech slotted only rotors. Im getting braided stainless lines put in as well.

Guages-
I upgraded to the triple pod pillar, so now i have boost, fuel pressure, and newly added innovate wide band air fuel ratio guage so i can monitor my real time exhaust and make sure im always safe. Reason being, us running multiple pumps... the number one reason youll see a built motor blow up is bc one of several fuel pumps fails, and the car still seems to run fine in vacume bc the other pump(s) can still handle the task alone, and once you go into boost, you find out too late that youre running lean when your hood pops up with a big puff of smoke. This a/f ratio allows me to glance at it in vacume before i go WOT, and glance over while in WOT, and if numbers arent right, i back off.

Supercharger-
I had the d1sc with a unique 12 rib belt setup. I was making 17lbs of boost by 6500 rpm once i got all the belt slip issues worked out. IM running a 3 inch pulley. I dont do a cogged setup bc if you road race, and downshift on a cogged setup, youll snap your gears in your supercharger.




I just upgraded to the f1r, and still using my 12 rib setup. This along with my etp heads over my stock ported ls1 heads should show a serious power gain. I plan to use the 3 inch pulley on the f1r as well, and limit top end boost with a custom valve i have taken a long time to locate that is not currently available in the car market. This valve allows me to set a psi, and once the system gets to that psi, it bleeds off excess boost smoothly, so for instance, i get to 17psi by 4000rpm, this valve will keep me from going over 17psi all the way up to 6500rpms where i am rev limiting too.



Cam-
The cam i have is a very mild cam, car idles stock it seems, but it is a thunder racing 99-TR224/227-114 "227/224 .569/.563 114 LSA". It produces plenty of low end torque, and im not looking to make too much over 800 peak hp as much as i am to have a car with a very flat power band so that the power is predicatble at all times, and there are no suprises as you climb through rpms if you are in a curvy place. Easily with my setup, and heads, and supercharger, i could make 1000+ rwhp i believe, however, it would require a very agressive cam that would lose most low end torque below 3000 rpm, and my car would idle like a race boat My goal is to have the most predicatble, streetable, high hp car on the road, that also remains somewhat of a sleeper. I am setting the car up to handle a more agressive cam just incase the day comes where id want to put one in. I might consider going to the 1.8 rockers, which would throw more lift into the equation, but i really think ill be in the 800rwhp range as the car stands now.

Exhaust-
Welp, still running some lousy aftermarket longtube ceramic headers with 1 3/4 primaries that keep cracking, and my stock exhaust with cats and stock x pipe. Made 620rwhp, and 595rwt on the small blower, stock ls1 heads, and this stock exhaust setup. I like a quiet car, and trying to stay streetable and sleeperish. My dyno curves suffer however... at 6000 rpm, my power peaks and starts to fall. If the exhaust was de-restricted, i would continue to climb at my current slope, putting me above 730hp by 6800 rpm where my cam and setup are designed to peak.

My compromise is im going to run exhaust cutouts right behind the headers, and possibly some custom flat 1"x8" side pipes that will remain hidden and come out just behind the front tires. I will have these cutouts on an electronic switch, thus giving me quiet mode, and nascar mode. This will require 2 different tunes for my car, still undecided how i will get around it, or if i will tune for the straight pipes, and then run rich with the exhaust closed. 95% of the time, they will be closed.

***I ended up putting the cutouts back by the trans, and eliminating my x pipe, but keeping the headers and the stock ti z06 exhaust. Pics are at the begining of this thread

Fuel system-
had a warbro 255 in tank pump and a kenne bell boostapump. Getting rid of the 255 bc my mechanic recomended the stock tt supra 295 pump as a much more reliable setup. Supposedly, the 255 bites the dust as soon as you over-spin it once, where as the supra pump is much more durable. Im also going up to gauge 10 braided line, and using my stock lines as a return system. Were using an aeromotive fuel regulator up by the rails, and keeping the pressure steady, somewhere around 45psi. I was running 62psi before this upgrade, and had my boostapump always ON instead of the advised "come on under boost only"... hickups in fuel pressure scare me, and theres no way for me to tell by my a/f gauge if my boostapump is working or not when im in vacume, so this was a choice made with an understanding, ill burn up my boostapump sooner than later, but ill know when it fails, and it wont take my motor with it, seems the lesser of the 2 evils if you ask me. Fuel pumps also run peak flow numbers at a 35-45psi setup, compared to a 62psi setup, so im much better off with a regulator and a return fuel line.

I was losing fuel pressure, dropping from 62 to 56psi after i drove the car for a while, especially if i parked, and then turned it back on. Came to realize the way my fuel lines were ran, they were within an inch of my ti exhaust where it arches over rear output shafts, up by the trunk floor. This was boiling my fuel, and causing my boostapump to cavitate, and causing my car to run lean from time to time, which is why i felt in my gut i needed an a/f gauge so i could monitor what was going on. Didnt take long to find the problem once i thought about it long enough. Another solution if anyone else is having this problem, is to cut simple metal disks, and drill holes through them the diameter of a fuel line. These disks can be put on a fuel line with a bit of spacing between, and it acts as a cooling radiator for your fuel before it goes into yoru motor. Obviously you want to put these disks somewhere that they will recieve cold air and arent next to something hot, otherwise they will have the reverse affect.

***new duel in tank fuel pump system photos are posted earlier in thread

Shifter-
Im looking for a nice used short throw shifter to install from b&m or hurst.

Intake-
Ive got a nice sheet metal intake manifold with longer runners on it, that is matched perfectly to the etp 245 heads i have. It has the 90mm opening, and i got an ls2 throttle body and the adapter cable to make it sink up with my c5 fly by wire system. The intake has a special heat insulating coating on it, and is black/gray in color.

***guy who sold me the manifold sold me a bad piece. it was "pulled" in final stages of welding, so the angle or pitch that it sat on the head was off by a few degrees. Going through the nightmare of trying to correct it because i dont have the conscience to sell it to anyone else.

Water meth-
I have the most expensive water meth known to man, but i cant remember what its called right now... its been installed in my car, but it has not been active. It has its own "maps" so you can literally map it like your fuel at rpm's and air pressures. I tuned my car without it when i was making the 620 hp last fall and this spring. I will activate it, and tune with it after my car is finished being upgraded this week. Ill probably run a 50 50 alc water mix just to cool the charge, and steam clean the motor, no exageration, water meth keeps motors looking literally brand new inside, carbon doesnt stand a chance. The other obvious reason is to keep intake air temps down, allowing one to run more engine timing without detonation.

Maf vs map sensor-
I was runnign a maf sensor, but it failed due to oil buildup. Instead of wasting money on maf after maf, ive decided to go to the 3 bar map setup. This setup will take effect once all the upgrades are done.... no point in retuning a car over and over. This is the main reason for me doing all my upgrades at once, its more cost effective when it comes time to tune, only tuning once instead of 5 times, each and every time I aquire a new part.

Body-
I got the flared rear quarters put in, and painted by a local corvette shop. The fenders look great, and my little stock 10.5 18 z06 wheels look like training wheels now. Still running the tigershark nose, and took the red and black hood off, swapped for a stock black one. Also took the red off the sides of the doors.







Im sure im forgetting something, but ive wrote enough for now.

Im sorry for bad spelling in advance, i know im the worst

 

im also looking for a 300 mph speedometer that is hud compatible. If anyone comes across one, let me know, i guess they are common up in canada, maybe a canadian junk yard will have one? Thanks

 

Im tuned in.........Also there are a few 300mph speedometers in the c5 parts section right now. Little pricey for what they are but I think YOU would have good use out of it.

 

i just posted some new pics up finally
http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk51/irun4cops/

 

Still in the shop

Been waiting on kametics .51 thickness gaskets, finally got those on, clayed the block, had tons of clearance, valves didnt even hit the clay, and we had 2-3 cm caked on the face of the piston. My 224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA lift cam is a chore to replace, a 20 hour job supposedly... so im looking into doing scorpion ls1- 1.8 instead of 1.7 rockers, which would put me in the .600ish lift range, or just below, which is where i would like to be. Thunder racing doesnt advise it however, due to the ramp rates of their lobes being too high. If i snap a rocker, i dont care, if a bust a spring i do care.... so im trying to figure out which would fail first. My etp heads look like they might hit the a/c lines on my firewall once we get the torque tube back in. However... this isnt a common problem, but my whole motor is moved back 3/4 an inch to make room for the 12 rib s/c belt. Anyway... waiting on motor mounts that go down the whole length of the block to keep the block from sheering in half under huge hp loads, i guess the aluminum blocks do that once you run 800+rwhp. My custom intake manifold is going to get into the firewall bigtime., so we have to angle the back side of it, luckily nate at PTMS is a great welder and fabricater.

***I got my motor mounts installed, they are much longer and protect the block from twisting.

 

Pictures added throughout the thread. TTT

 

I have learned a lot throughout this build, mostly learning and understanding tradeoffs in doing things different ways.

I plan to drive this car for a year or 2. In 2 years, I plan to build an all out super car.

I havent decided yet if im going to go naturally asperated, and low weight...
Or turbo'd and low weight...
Or turbo'd and top speed with extra gas tanks.

Im waiting to see what the new vettes with overhead cams do... but...

I would love to pick up a used ford GT, and try to take it to about the 1000 hp mark. Those cars dont seem to depreciate due to limited numbers.


The other thing i was considering would be something really light like a noble m400, and taking it to the 600hp range, and gearing it to do 200+. Im keeping my eyes and ears open for other lightweight cars.



And then of course there is the 2000+ hp vette build... but id honestly prefer to mess with the other 2 ideas above, and keep a super light weight car with 600+hp

 

so i was bored today, and was going through my vette, trying to figure out a perfect spot to put the cutout switch for the dmh's. We have the rpm relay circuit, but i still had to put the manual override somewhere convinient INCASE the rpm switch relay failed as I went into boost. So I was trying to put it somewhere that i could get to the switch fast. Then I got to thinking, I wonder if i could put it IN the shift **** on my 6 speed? So i took the **** appart, but there was no room in there for it. Then i got to thinking about a home made shift ****... and for those of you who dont know me, the second thing i like behind fast cars is playing pool... its how i paid for food through college. So i got a cue ball, a 3 ball and an 8 ball from my table, and i figured what the hell... lets try this. Cue ball was the prototype, I failed. 3 ball is red, so it matches the z06 accents of my car, so it was second to be tried. 3 ball was a success. I will make the 8 ball later this week and then have to make the tough decision which to use. In the meantime, i figured id flaunt my creation on corvette forum. The actual 3 is perfectly stright up once screwed onto the shift shaft. The cutout is out of the way of being bumped on accident, and lies perfectly between the index finger and your thumb. I could make more if anyone is interested, but im not going to lie, it looks perfect, but also took me 5 hours to do

 

Im really interested in this blow off valve. I am in the process of building (or at least planning the build) my 99 Tacoma expedition rig. It will be supercharged to about 8psi. Since I will be going through mountain trails and such, I am a little concerned about the power loss at elevation. This seems like a good solution. Can you post or PM me with some details on this setup and where you found the valves?

Awsome build up by the way