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From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Quit eating until you hand looks like you could star in the next "Pirates" movie and then you can reach it! OR.....35 bucks at the stealership! Buy the longlife bulbs at Orielly's.
Push the brake cooling duct down, and out of the way. Reach in, twist the socket, and pull it out. Replace bulb, replace socket. Push cooling duct back into place. Voila! all done. About a five minute job. HTH
P.S. You can't do this method with popeye arms. Medium size arms at most.
My first clue was the turn signal sound was extra fast...pulled in a station to check and sure enough, the left one is out.
I'm going to try to do this myself tomorrow.
if you have ramps or a floor jack,
jack the front end....
there is a visible access panel, remover the screws...
The maker lights are a clear sight and reach....
Turn on the headlights and back off one position to kill the lights.
Unscrew the 3 small screws on the black plastic housing around the headlight. Gently pull the housing clear. Reach down around the headlight unit and release the bulb holder. It unscrews counter clockwise but it has a plastic clip which you need to squeeze to release it. Change the bulb. Reseat the bulb holder and turn until it clicks back in place. Put the plastic housing back in place making sure to locate the small plastic tab in the bracket on the headlamp cover. Replace the 3 screws and close the lights.
10 minute job.
The bulb is a 4157NA
Some guys with big arms remove the hood adjusting screw for better access. Guys with even bigger arms have had to take off the headlight cover. Four torx screws (2 back, 1 each side). Take the back ones off first with the lamps down. Raise the lights and take the side ones out.
Although it didnt happen to me, a guy posted the other day that while doing the "around the back of the light" approach, he had the engine off and the power drain shut off timed out and the light went down and ate his arm.
Took a little while to get the bulb swapped when I did it, dont remember if I had the engine running (probably not) but mine never closed on me.
Only pita is that the harness isnt long enough to pull the bulb socket out to where you can get two hands on it to change the bulb, so that takes some screwing around.
BTW, as stated earlier "find the tab on the bulb socket and press it and turn" to remove the socket from the housing . . .but . . .
the bulb just pulls out of the socket (dont try to push in and twist like an 1157, or it'll take a little longer to change them, with the hunting for bandaids and all the cursing :-) ).
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
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Originally Posted by rws.1
if you have ramps or a floor jack,
jack the front end....
there is a visible access panel, remover the screws...
The maker lights are a clear sight and reach....
If the other two don't work, this one is a good way to get into the back of the light.