Help with wiring HIDs
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 1
From: Clear Lake Tx
St. Jude Donor '11
Help with wiring HIDs
I installed a set of hids and they work pretty decent, my main question is i had one do the flicker thing. Contacted the vendor and he stated that i should replace my factory 10a fuse with a 20a fuse to allow the lights to draw sufficient power. I just wanted to get an ok from you guys before i swap the fuses as i DO NOT want electrical issues.
also when i have the lights on it my volt gauge goes from 13.6 at idle to about 13.3, is that normal?
Thanks
also when i have the lights on it my volt gauge goes from 13.6 at idle to about 13.3, is that normal?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 1
From: Clear Lake Tx
St. Jude Donor '11
Ok maybe i should have read them, but i still want to get verification that its ok to double the size of the amp, also that the lights should draw that much power at idle ( havnet checked to see if alternator compensates although im sure it does )
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 167
Likes: 2
From: Scotch Plains NJ
I installed the HID conversion this weekend and haven't had any issues other than needing to adjust the passenger side upward. I bought 20 amp fuses just in case but haven't found the need yet. The 10 amp fuses did not blow. In your situation its easy enough to temporarily substitute a 20 fuse to see if it eliminates the problem that you identified. HIDs do require additional power (current) to fire up but after they ignite the power requirement drops below that of a regular headlamp bulb. The wiring surely isn't rated for 20 amps but it might be a necessary mod to operate the HIDs. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Barry
Barry
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 1
From: Clear Lake Tx
St. Jude Donor '11
I installed the HID conversion this weekend and haven't had any issues other than needing to adjust the passenger side upward. I bought 20 amp fuses just in case but haven't found the need yet. The 10 amp fuses did not blow. In your situation its easy enough to temporarily substitute a 20 fuse to see if it eliminates the problem that you identified. HIDs do require additional power (current) to fire up but after they ignite the power requirement drops below that of a regular headlamp bulb. The wiring surely isn't rated for 20 amps but it might be a necessary mod to operate the HIDs. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Barry
Barry
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Seven Valleys Pennsylvania
I installed a set of hids and they work pretty decent, my main question is i had one do the flicker thing. Contacted the vendor and he stated that i should replace my factory 10a fuse with a 20a fuse to allow the lights to draw sufficient power. I just wanted to get an ok from you guys before i swap the fuses as i DO NOT want electrical issues.
also when i have the lights on it my volt gauge goes from 13.6 at idle to about 13.3, is that normal?
Thanks
also when i have the lights on it my volt gauge goes from 13.6 at idle to about 13.3, is that normal?
Thanks
That is the same problem that I had with the HID's that I pulled out of the car. You shouldn't just upgrade the fuse because the wiring is not designed to handle that type of load. Upgrading the fuse only is asking for electrical problems. You need to install a switching relay that is connected to the battery via a large guage wire; with a 20 amp fuse for protection. You can get the relays from any stereo shop with a pre-wired harness, or I can help you with the pin configuration. I chose to ditch the whole HID thing instead but I would be happy to help you in anyway I can. BTW, she looks good with Texas plates
Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,369
Likes: 73
From: The line waiting to see Santa Claus stretched all the way back to Terre Haute, and I was at the end, Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
The fuse doesn't protect the load, it protects the wire. A 20 amp fuse may cause the wire to melt down. Do the direct-wire with fuse & relay retrofit.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 1
From: Clear Lake Tx
St. Jude Donor '11
Paul,
That is the same problem that I had with the HID's that I pulled out of the car. You shouldn't just upgrade the fuse because the wiring is not designed to handle that type of load. Upgrading the fuse only is asking for electrical problems. You need to install a switching relay that is connected to the battery via a large guage wire; with a 20 amp fuse for protection. You can get the relays from any stereo shop with a pre-wired harness, or I can help you with the pin configuration. I chose to ditch the whole HID thing instead but I would be happy to help you in anyway I can. BTW, she looks good with Texas plates
Steve
That is the same problem that I had with the HID's that I pulled out of the car. You shouldn't just upgrade the fuse because the wiring is not designed to handle that type of load. Upgrading the fuse only is asking for electrical problems. You need to install a switching relay that is connected to the battery via a large guage wire; with a 20 amp fuse for protection. You can get the relays from any stereo shop with a pre-wired harness, or I can help you with the pin configuration. I chose to ditch the whole HID thing instead but I would be happy to help you in anyway I can. BTW, she looks good with Texas plates
Steve
Thats what i am nervous about, however after seeing at night WITH the hids, i gotta have them. I think i may go the route you suggest and set up a wire and relay with an independant fuse directly to the hid ballast. That way if i burn a wire its not part of the wiring harness. Just have to figure what i am going to hook the relay. Maybe ill just install a switch inside the car for the lights to come on??
On a side notl you need to send me that stereo stuff, ill even cover shipping
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Seven Valleys Pennsylvania
Paul,
I'm going deep into my memory banks now, but I believe this is how the relay gets wired: terminal 30 - directly to the positive battery terminal (this should be a 10-12 guage wire with a 20 amp fuse)
Terminal 87- To the positive of the HID ballast
Terminal 86- To a solid body ground(this wire should be the same guage as the battery wire)
Terminal 15- Connect to the existing factory headlamp positive wire
You don't need to install a seperate switch at all.
That was straight from memory, the only thing I may be incorrect on is terminal 87-it should be the external tab opposite of terminal 30. If I am wrong, than that terminal would be 87a
This would work for a Bosch or Potter & Brumfield single pole double throw relay...Whew! I'm sweating now
As for the stereo equipment...
I'm going deep into my memory banks now, but I believe this is how the relay gets wired: terminal 30 - directly to the positive battery terminal (this should be a 10-12 guage wire with a 20 amp fuse)
Terminal 87- To the positive of the HID ballast
Terminal 86- To a solid body ground(this wire should be the same guage as the battery wire)
Terminal 15- Connect to the existing factory headlamp positive wire
You don't need to install a seperate switch at all.
That was straight from memory, the only thing I may be incorrect on is terminal 87-it should be the external tab opposite of terminal 30. If I am wrong, than that terminal would be 87a
This would work for a Bosch or Potter & Brumfield single pole double throw relay...Whew! I'm sweating now
As for the stereo equipment...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,866
Likes: 45
From: Tampa Bay, Go BUCS!!!Go Rays!!!Go Lightning!!!
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Personally I think his the vendors excuse about the fuse is 
They might use more power, and a 20a fuse might be a good idea for startup, but a fuse won't limit power to the lamps until it blows. Until/unless that happens the fuse is NOT your problem.
Mine flicker occasionally and so far I've attributed it to low system voltage. It almost ALWAYS happens when my foot is off the gas coasting or idling.
Good Luck
They might use more power, and a 20a fuse might be a good idea for startup, but a fuse won't limit power to the lamps until it blows. Until/unless that happens the fuse is NOT your problem.
Mine flicker occasionally and so far I've attributed it to low system voltage. It almost ALWAYS happens when my foot is off the gas coasting or idling.
Good Luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,024
Likes: 18
From: DFW Texas
I've had mine now for about 6 weeks. The left side will still occasionally flicker on start up. Just turn off, then back on and they light up just fine.
Somewhere I thought I recall seeing someone say there is a 'break-in' on the ballasts and to expect that temporarily. The vendor told me if one of mine continued doing it, he would send another unit. I have not bothered with it as 90% of the time they both fire up just fine.
I did blow a 10 amp fuse on the right side straight away after the install, so went to a 15 amp and have had no problem whatsoever.
Instead of doing the whole relay bit, you can put an inline fuse just after the connector to the ballast and load that with a 15 amp fastblow, then a 20 amp at the fuse box. Much quicker, and equally as 'safe' as the load (if it blew the 15 amp) would be right at the source or at the farthest from the fuse box..
That was my concern but after having been on for an hour or more, when I come in to park, pop the hood, feel the wires and they are all fine.... It's the starting voltage of the ballasts, not the continuing load or so I have chosen to believe.
Good Luck
Somewhere I thought I recall seeing someone say there is a 'break-in' on the ballasts and to expect that temporarily. The vendor told me if one of mine continued doing it, he would send another unit. I have not bothered with it as 90% of the time they both fire up just fine.
I did blow a 10 amp fuse on the right side straight away after the install, so went to a 15 amp and have had no problem whatsoever.
Instead of doing the whole relay bit, you can put an inline fuse just after the connector to the ballast and load that with a 15 amp fastblow, then a 20 amp at the fuse box. Much quicker, and equally as 'safe' as the load (if it blew the 15 amp) would be right at the source or at the farthest from the fuse box..
That was my concern but after having been on for an hour or more, when I come in to park, pop the hood, feel the wires and they are all fine.... It's the starting voltage of the ballasts, not the continuing load or so I have chosen to believe.
Good Luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7,021
Likes: 46
From: enterprise al
St. Jude Donor '08
hmm.. i'm glad i stumbled across this thread. while i was on vacation my gf and i got in my car after dinner and the hids were flickering horribly.. it had done it b4 but this time no matter what i jiggled or tried, nothing worked.. so while panicing, i selected voltage on the dic to see that it was in the 12s.. i let the car sit turned off for a while then cranked it back up, leaving the air conditioner off till the voltage rose to mid 13s and the headlights worked fine.. somebody on here mentioned checking all the grounds and kinda worried me.. i know these things are infamous for grounding/wiring issues.. and now the whole seperate relay/wire/fuse thing makes good sense.. i figure, with the elaborate connection between the computer and the 'smart alternator', there is only so much voltage being sent to the ballast and probably even less while the ac compressor is running.. am i on the right track you electronic gurus?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Seven Valleys Pennsylvania
I had all of these issues and based on this thread it seems as though it is very common. I chalked it up to a cheap kit which I did not pay for, got fed up and pulled them back out. I had some other issues when I first connected them with the headlamp lids closing and after ten hours of troubleshooting and nonsense, I figured out that standard bulbs have a 1 ohm resistance that the headlamp control module looks for or the lids stay open. My ballasts did not have any resistance at all. But enough of my babbling, I had to build one extravagant relay set up to provide the resistance and after doing that I never felt like wiring another set. That's when I just put Hella bulbs in the car and called it a day. Best of luck Paul, call me if I can help in any way, and I 'm glad to se you picking up where I left off
The car looks great in your sig
The car looks great in your sig
