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Headlight motor making noise

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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 07:14 AM
  #1  
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Default Headlight motor making noise

I went to turn off my headlights this morning and my driver's side headlight made this loud noise like something was stuck in a fan blade. I assume this is the motor.

I turned it off and on several times and it continued to make the sound. I let it continue while looking for the source and after a few seconds it stopped.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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The plastic gear in your headlight motor is missing a few teeth.

Is a very easy repair. Lookup brass headlight gears on the forum, there's a few good vendors for replacement brass parts.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Stangkiller
The plastic gear in your headlight motor is missing a few teeth.

Is a very easy repair. Lookup brass headlight gears on the forum, there's a few good vendors for replacement brass parts.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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Very is a bit of an embellishment if you're not the DIY type. That said, I'm not overly-mechanically inclined and I was able to do it with relative ease. Good luck!
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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Ha, mine started doing the exact same thing a week ago. It sounds horrible.

Mine is under warranty and I have a $100. deduct. So I checked with my GM parts guy on the price of a new one which was about $160. and I decided to replace it myself since the warranty would only cover the 60. plus labor. (Yippee I get to use my tools again, been awhile since the '93 has been gone!) Anyway I have the Factory Service Manuals and reviewed the procedure. Amazing what has to come off first to swap the motor out. Hope to have this done this evening. I figured it wasn't worth the aggrevation of sitting at the dealers for several hours and letting someone unknown to me swap it out. I know I'll have it out and in within an hour or so, and I know the quality of my work!

GOOD LUCK on yours.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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rodneydickman.com
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:33 PM
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You can also do a free repair that only takes a few minutes. Locate and remove the nut that holds the headlight control arm to the motor, carefully remove the control arm, place a reference mark on the shaft where the arm mounts, with the manual ****, rotate the shaft where the arm mounts 180 degrees, reinstall arm and nut. Your motors gears are now riding on a new surface and will probably last as long as they did this time. When they die again, you'll need the new gears for sure.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
Ha, mine started doing the exact same thing a week ago. It sounds horrible.

Mine is under warranty and I have a $100. deduct. So I checked with my GM parts guy on the price of a new one which was about $160. and I decided to replace it myself since the warranty would only cover the 60. plus labor. (Yippee I get to use my tools again, been awhile since the '93 has been gone!) Anyway I have the Factory Service Manuals and reviewed the procedure. Amazing what has to come off first to swap the motor out. Hope to have this done this evening. I figured it wasn't worth the aggrevation of sitting at the dealers for several hours and letting someone unknown to me swap it out. I know I'll have it out and in within an hour or so, and I know the quality of my work!

GOOD LUCK on yours.
I wouldn't waste my time replacing the motors with new ones that include the same old "plastic" gears. I would invest in a more permanent solution by replacing the gears with "brass" ones. Get them from Rodney Dickman. They come in a nifty little kit that includes everything you will need to complete the job but some basic tools.

If replacing the gears, you have the option of removing the headlight assemblies or leaving them in place and only removing the motors for access. I chose the latter and found it to be a fairly easy yet permanent solution to my problem.

By not removing the entire assemblies, you are working with your hands is some very tight spaces. There is one tool that makes this approach much easier...a "racheting" box end wrench for removing the three bolts that attach the motor to the bracket and disconnecting the actuator arm from the spindle of the motor (four bolts total...all 10mm I believe).

Gool luck.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by vermjpv
rodneydickman.com

This is all you need to know for this problem.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by old55
This is all you need to know for this problem.
Take a look at Leaftye's sticky at the top of C5 General. Run down to headlight gears and you have all you need.

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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by vermjpv
rodneydickman.com


Here is the exact page you need.

Click here.

Edit: My mistake. You still have to click on the "electrical tab" and then click on the "1997-2004 C5 Corvette Metal Headlight Gears" link.

Last edited by WetteVette; Jul 20, 2007 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by zTrek
I wouldn't waste my time replacing the motors with new ones that include the same old "plastic" gears.
Yeah I know but I didn't want to spend the time disassembling the motor and doing the gear swap. I did that to both on them on my previous C4. I figured for a few dollars just swap the dang thing. If it goes again, then I'll consider R&R the motor like before.

I can't believe GM (Chevrolet) was so dang lazy to basically use the same motor from the C4 generation. Why did they not realize how horrible these things were and come up with a new design. Of course we all know they did figure it out eventually, but that was a C6 and their solution was the kill the flip lamps. I bet if the C6 got flip lamps they would have used the same stinkin' motor again!

I should be done with this early this evening.
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Well not a bad job, little tough on the lower back though. Took about two hours, that included time to figure out a quicker way shortening the FSM procedure. I didn't completely follow the FSM, they wanted you to access it from underneath removing the entire assembly. I just removed the bezel and top lid, and was able to work in the small space to get the three nuts/bolts and the center nut off. Set the new motor position to match the old, swapped out the motors and good to go. Except now my newer one comes up a hair faster then the original on the other side, LOL, but they go down the same rate. Most of all, I know how the job was done, no surprises later.

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