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The standard clutch is beginning to show signs of it's coming to the end of it's life - some spirited driving - slightly higher HP and stickier tires have taken it's toll !
I don't track or drag the car but need a performance clutch but something drivable in the city
The standard clutch is beginning to show signs of it's coming to the end of it's life - some spirited driving - slightly higher HP and stickier tires have taken it's toll !
I don't track or drag the car but need a performance clutch but something drivable in the city
What are the symptoms you're experiencing?
On the car, how much rwhp? How many miles? How many launches?
On the car, how much rwhp? How many miles? How many launches?
Any specific plan for further power increase?
Ranger
It's just beginning to get difficult to get into gear all the time - very little bite left (hope my terms make sense)
Normally I'm pretty kind to my cars, but i was a bit of animal with it for TV show - too many burn outs and donuts - and did loose the clutch all together whilst it overheated somewhat - it's not been the same since !
i'm the 2nd owner in the UK
22,000 miles - i've done 12k in the last 10months
It's probably only slightly more HP than stock - nothing major and probably will leave it as it powerwise - possible upgrade on the suspension at some point
It's just beginning to get difficult to get into gear all the time - very little bite left (hope my terms make sense)
Normally I'm pretty kind to my cars, but i was a bit of animal with it for TV show - too many burn outs and donuts - and did loose the clutch all together whilst it overheated somewhat - it's not been the same since !
i'm the 2nd owner in the UK
22,000 miles - i've done 12k in the last 10months
It's probably only slightly more HP than stock - nothing major and probably will leave it as it powerwise - possible upgrade on the suspension at some point
Hi jml_911,
I had two C5Zs and drag raced them using the stock LS6 clutch.
Each clutch gave 150-175 drag strip bunouts and launches. Most were on drag radial tires.
The clamping power of the clutch remained very constant throughout its life. And a new clutch (total of four) clamped no better than the one it replaced.
From that I learned that the LS6 clutch is an excellent product for cars at near stock power level (say less than 380 at the wheels). So for your power-level and driving style, I'd suggest staying with the stock GM LS6 clutch.
But before throwing in the towel on your LS6 clutch, I'd suggest focusing some attention on cleaning up your clutch fluid. That will cost about 10 USD and take about an hour. If you've driven hard for even a few thousand miles without clutch fluid maintenance, it alone may be causing the symptoms you've noted. Here is the protocol for Taking Care of Your Clutch
Repeated clutch fluid changes until it remains clear should help a lot. Next step is changing out the transmission fluid. Also the differential fluid. Those steps generally restore smoothness to driveline feel.
Repeated clutch fluid changes until it remains clear should help a lot. Next step is changing out the transmission fluid. Also the differential fluid. Those steps generally restore smoothness to driveline feel.
Ranger
I suspect that niether has been changed since it's arrived in the UK - and for that matter it's probably needs a good service - I've only done oil and filter changes - so I think it's about time it got some TLC
fluid changed - seems a little better - but think i may still be in the market for another clutch - i'll need to drive it for a few days and see how it performs
thanks again
(if I do need a new clutch - what would you recommend above the stock one)
Mine only had 4K and the fluid looked like black egg noodle soup. Followed the above protocol from Ranger and all is well. I hope you are able to clean yours up. 22K is too much without maintenance on a poorly designed system IMO. I suspect the lower end of the system may be heavily affected as well. If you do a clutch add a bleeder below.
fluid changed - seems a little better - but think i may still be in the market for another clutch - i'll need to drive it for a few days and see how it performs
thanks again
(if I do need a new clutch - what would you recommend above the stock one)
The goal of the clutch fluid protocol is to change it repeatedly with pedal pumps to get the aggregate fluid content back to clear, dry (no water) and a boiling point near the nominal value on the can. I'd suggest using a fresh can of DOT4 or Super DOT4.
If the power is 380 or less at the wheel, suggest saying with the stock clutch. If you venture into the world of aftermarket clutches, it's a crap shoot. None is without detractors. There are literally thousands of clutch threads on this forum, most replete with laments.
yep - i've used Dot 4 - but just an average brand
I'll do another cycle mid week with AP Fluid
It does seem fairly clear though
Re Power - it's not been dyno'd - and it's only had a Borla Exhaust and vararam added and i used the Diablo tuner on it - so minor power upgrades - who know's what it's running at the wheel !
I assume stickier tires can make a big difference though - I'm running Toyo proxies - which definetely give more grip than the Goodyears run flats
I've got the Textralia OZ700 and the pedal action is much like the stock clutch but with much more clamping force. At first I had a bit of drivetrain chatter but after a few hundred miles of smooth and mellow driving the clutch broke in and this went away.
I also went with the aluminum flywheel which will make your engine think it has a few more ponies. At first it is easier getting off the line with the extra mass of the stock weight one but now that I'm used to it it's no problem.