I went back into the DIC this morning and scrolled thru the codes again. This is what I found under 28-TCS: C 1226 LF H Excessive Wheel Speed Variation. C 1233 RF H Wheel speed circuit Open or Shorted. Both were history codes. I cleared them and took a short spin. The C 1226 LF code returned.

I also have a fuel code: P 1431 H Fuel Level Sensor2 Circuit Performance that when cleared did not return and a U 1160 H Loss of Communication with LDCM that when cleared did not return. I also have a B 0361 H C Left Actuator Feedback Short or GRND that still persists. (AC blows thru both dash & floor vents.... no big deal for now).

OK WIZZARDS! What can I do before it goes to the dealer on Wednesday? I would like to fix it on my own if possible, save a few bucks and learn in the process.

Aloha,
DJ

 

Are you on aftermarket wheels and tires or are they stock?

Peace
Chip

 

Stock sized, Kumho non-run flats on the stock wagon wheels for the last 9 months.

Two weeks prior to the problem I pulled the wheel/tires (on-by-one - no mix up) and cleaned the suspension, repained the wheel wells and the calipers...... Only thing I can think of..........

Mahalo,
DJ

 

What are your tire sizes?

Peace
Chip

 

The wheel speed sensors are part of the wheel bearing and hub. There's a wire coming out of the back which is the connection for the sensors. If you distrurbed or damaged the connector or its corroded, it may be causing the problem. May be worth pulling that wheel again and taking a look. Just a thought.

 

I was thinking just that. Though like I said, the problem didn't acur until two weeks later.

 

The tires are the STOCK size. Don't know the numbers off the top of my head and a little to late to run out to the garage to check, but they ARE the stock size.

 

If you painted your calipers, check the contact points on them to make sure you have the proper ground. I had the same problem after I had my calipers powder coated and switched to S/S brake lines several years ago. I threw a Service ABS/Traction Control code just about every time I drove the car. After 2 years of replacing parts and trying to figure out why it was still throwing codes, we finally figured out it was a bad ground on my right front caliper. We ground of the powder coating on all of the contact points and I haven't had a problem since.

 

MAHALO! All this information goes o the shop tech tomorrow. Let him (them) figure it out.

 

I went to the dealership this morning at the "appointed, scheduled" time. They offered me a choice of either leaving my car there or returning next week Monday when the "Vette Tech" will be free. Why make an appointment if they can not honor it!?! Ok, I'll leave it; just give me a loaner. Sorry, we won't have a loaner for another two days. Ahhhhhhhh.... fiddlesticks!!!

THEN, he hands me a work order to sign. They want to charge me $98 to diagnois the problem. HELLO!!! I know the problem AND the cause. The vette's DIC pin-pointed the problem. Just pop the wheel and fix it!! Nope, they still gotta charge me for the diagnoisis.

I call my friend's repair shop and ask him if he is up to the task of fixing the problem and over the phone he explains what is most likely wrong and the fix. I extract my car and go home. The car goes in tomorrow and more than likly will cost me 30 - 50 % less to fix.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Wheel Speed Sensors

Code C1221 - 1228 indicate that one of the wheel speed sensors is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensors are integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly pictured below. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector are not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.




The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections. If all of that checks out good, Swap the jumper harness from side to side. For example if the left front is bad, swap it over to the right front. and install the good one from the right front to the left side. Then clear the trouble code. If the trouble code is now on the right side, you know the wire harness is the problem. If the code is still on the left side after swapping the jumper harnesses, you know the problem is inside the wheel speed sensors.


If all the wires check out good, it's time to take a trip to Auto Zone for a new set of bearings. You can buy replacement AC Delco bearing from your dealer if you want to, or get the exact same bearing in a different box for half the price (~$150) from Auto Zone, you decide. The bearings should be replaced in axel sets, so if your left front is bad, you have to replace the right front too. While your at it, this is a good time to upgrade the lug studs and add spindle ducts.

 

What kind of ground does the caliper have? It's only got a brake line going to it. I put on powder coated calipers and there are no electrical connections on the caliper.
Can you expound on your suggestion?

 

Ok guys, long story short. The GM Dealer in TEXAS (Da Good Guys!) screwed up when they installed the new rotors & pads (all four corners). They forgot to install the pin the hold a shield that protects the ABS sensor. The shield rubbed against the hub and eventually cut the wire and screwed the hub, spindle and sensor. I need a new spindle/hub/sensor assembly. This "may" sound wacky to some of you, I dunno..... I have complete trust in my friend/mechanic. I've been doing business with him for over 25 yrs. and he has never done me wrong. I'll have a better undersdtanding when I get the bill as he is going to write a complete description of what he found, with pictures. I'm sendinjg this off to the Texas GM dealership that did the install and hope for the best (full or partial refund for the repair...)

 

good luck

 

My abs/traction problem started right after I got a leaky rear seal fixed...hmmm

Makes me wonder..........

 

Here is a picture of the culprit that need to be replaced. $540 for the part and $250 for labor and of course there is taxes..........

I'm just wondering why the wires between the connector and the sensor couldn't be spliced...............