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Lowered Corvettes

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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #21  
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That's alot of help guys. Thanks for the input. After driving one just recently I think the best bet for me will be to leave it stock height when I get one.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by unionlandlord
Normal speed bumps come right up to my rocker savers. I can get in most driveways I need to. Its a lot harder to drive a lowered Vette. Yet still enjoyable at the same time.

Mine is as low as you can go W/out geting coil overs



Paul G.
Exactly!!!

Its simple folks, you adapt on how to drive a lowered vehicle, speed bumps and other obstacles you simply approach on an angle and slowly go over one wheel at a time, same way on steep driveways, if its to steep and you do not live where the driveway is to steep, park it somewhere.

Mine is lowered as low as you can go accept if coil overs were installed and I have no problems, this can be seen by looking underneath and checking the exhaust for scrapes where the cats are.

Does the front air dam scrap on driveways?, when I back out of my driveway I backout on an angle and it scrapes a little (front dam that is, the one that it suppose to scrape hense the springs on them).A must is to also install Rocker Savers and Frame savers up front, many vendors carry these, I found A&A to have the less expensive package, and they are very functional, even can use the rocker savers for jacking. But as mentioned there are plenty of quality vendors that sell these items and I am sure they all are quality products.

Not only does it add looks, but it does improve the cornering stability if matched up with proper suspension upgrades (Z06 sways,Bilsteins etc).
If someone tells you it doesnt , they obviously havent drove a lowered vette then.

It comes down to personal preference, and driving ability.

Below is a in depth procedure if you wish to venture into the ranks of Slammed status, if you will., then eventually you will mod the motor, then you can proudly boast that you are "Slammed & Cammed".

Originally Posted by Pizzano
http://www.2phast.com/Corvette/lower.htm

Above is a detailed Pictures included procedure for removing the front bolt, along with that I will give you my procedure

Front Lowering:
First you will have to have the vehicle supported by 2 jack stands under the front crossmember.

You will be using 2 jacks for the procedure(easieast way)
(1) jack that will support the lower ball joint/control arm, and a smaller jack with a small piece of wood for protection while using it to jack/add tension to the front leaf spring.

First off with front tires off, remove the upper control arm 4 bolts(make sure to note if any washers/spacers come out from behind each bolt, and to put them back the exact way they were installed), with the upper control arm loose(support caliper so brake line is not pulled to tight), I also found out it is easier to get the 10mm socket on the lowering bolt if the lower shock bolts are removed, With this in consideration (while you jack the lower ball joint/control arm, position the jack so that you can still get to the lower shock nuts>youll see what i mean<.

The reason for 2 jacks is while your Lowering the lower control arm/ball joint, your going to want to put tension on the front leaf spring, to seperate the spring so that the adjustment bolt backs its self out.

Use the 10mm socket until you cant catch the nut any futher, then you will have to put tension on the spring and lower the Lower control arm all the way, this will give you enough room to back out the adjustment bolt by hand the rest of the way

Once the bolt is removed, you will be raising the Lower ball joint/control arm and relieving the tension on the spring, when there is just enough gap between the spring and lower control arm, insert your gasket material(piece of rubber, or what I did was go to Lowes/Homedepot, and in the plumbing department they have these polyurethane couplers(black)to connect like 6" pvc, Just buy one coupler, and cut 2 pieces out of it for your cushion)

Once this is done, bolt the upper control back up, I do believe the torque is 53ft/lbs,Ill also send you a link showing all torques specs for the C5

http://www.metricchemical.com/C5torque.pdf

The Rear:

Jack up the rear crossmember, leaving wheels on and hanging , or you can remove the wheels.

Remove the adjustable bolts completey,(dont worry, the spring is not under load).

Simply reuse the factory bushings in the same matter they came off as, Install your new bolts/washers/nuts
(grade 8, 7" 1/2"-13 bolt)
(grade 8 1/2" nylon lock nuts)
(grade 8 washers)

these can be found at a local bolt warehouse(I havent found this size at any Home depot or Lowes)
Or for online ordering go to www.boltdepot.com

Once the new bolts are installed , just tighten the nuts with the same amount of threads showing on each side, and go from there as far as how low/high you need to go,(the lesser amount of threads will be lowering the vehicle, the greater amount of threads showing will be raising the vehicle).

Hope this helps

Kevin

Last edited by Pizzano; Oct 6, 2007 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 01:28 PM
  #23  
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I suppose if your Vette is not a daily driver i could see having it lowered. Mine got automatically lowered when i put the turbos in. Downside for me is that i do drive it daily and have to do a lot of dodging.
Speed bumps are a pain but what i hate is those little rocks in the road. Going to raise the front end just a tad i think.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #24  
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My Z06 is lowered about 1.25" all around, and I daily drive it. Just have to be aware, and after a little while it becomes second nature. Matter of fact I end up angling cars I don't have to because I am so in tune with my Corvette.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #25  
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Do it!

But for the love of god - get rocker rails and frame savers (the wheels).

-Rich
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #26  
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Mine is lowered on stock bolts. So far no issues.




I did add the fat daddys just to be on the safe side.


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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:23 PM
  #27  
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I "lowered" mine by installing a new sound system. It weighs 210 lbs. With a 399 lb cargo/passenger capacity it lowers the car. Dynamat and Dynapad alone were over 100 lbs. the sub/box, NAV head unit and everything else were over a hundred pounds.

But. I have a great sound system to listen to when the scraping sounds come!!!
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:36 PM
  #28  
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I first lowered mine on the stock bolts and due to the Z51 susp. it didn't lower it enough. I then put longer bolts in the rear and cut 2/3 of the bushing off the front. I really haven't had any problems. You just have to go at an angle over speed bumps or entrances. I don't think I could stand looking at it at stock height anymore.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 09:16 PM
  #29  
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have not had any problems with mind get new shocks also
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #30  
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Rollinred ...your car looks great!
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 7
Rollinred ...your car looks great!
thanxs 7 took a page from your car
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rollinred
thanxs 7 took a page from your car

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 04:09 AM
  #33  
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Had my front bolts removed before so I was very low already.
I now run Pfadt c/o's, bars, and poly bushings...and a little lower.
You have to drive differently!

Last edited by JETZ; Nov 30, 2007 at 08:33 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 01:00 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by minitech
I "lowered" mine by installing a new sound system. It weighs 210 lbs. With a 399 lb cargo/passenger capacity it lowers the car. Dynamat and Dynapad alone were over 100 lbs. the sub/box, NAV head unit and everything else were over a hundred pounds.

But. I have a great sound system to listen to when the scraping sounds come!!!
This 'sounds' about the right way to do it..........
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 01:13 AM
  #35  
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Do speedbumps/driveways at an angle and really slow. (the slow part is more for preventing a high center situation)
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 11:12 PM
  #36  
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I hated but I had to lift a little the front susp...

When I started, I notice that the front susp was already lowered or at least it looked that because the round piece like a lock has space between that and the bottom so I turn the screws about 5-7 turns and the car lift about 1-1.25 inches... I HATE THAT!!! but I had too!..

That´s because on my office, the garage driveway is a long down way, the problem is that instead of the lift, still the part down the door (I dont know the correct name in english) shocks a little, but, with 2 uses, I see some scratches that I hate too much, so... Is there any product or accesory to prevente that? or at least, any product to cover that and the accesory can be replaceble??

I leave a pic where you can see the scratches... My 98 coupe has only 5,000K miles, so I take too much care of it, so thats Why I feel to bad with this...
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #37  
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...not only do you have scratches, but that rear panel is torn just behind the fastener...
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #38  
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ups!, I don´t understand what are you sayin..
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 01:56 PM
  #39  
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At the end of the lift arm beneath the hockey puck...(next to the sheet metal fastener)...it appears there is a crack/tear in the body panel moving towards the seam.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
At the end of the lift arm beneath the hockey puck...(next to the sheet metal fastener)...it appears there is a crack/tear in the body panel moving towards the seam.
OH yes... I bought the car a few months ago and that part was cracked a little, I just use crazy glue, I think maybe the only time that car changed the oil, the persona who lift the car, don´t knew how to lift it with good care...
The car changed the oil at 3,690miles, on November 2006, today it has 5,300miles on it, so that´s why, I hate this kind of damage...
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