Lowered Corvettes
Its simple folks, you adapt on how to drive a lowered vehicle, speed bumps and other obstacles you simply approach on an angle and slowly go over one wheel at a time, same way on steep driveways, if its to steep and you do not live where the driveway is to steep, park it somewhere.
Mine is lowered as low as you can go accept if coil overs were installed and I have no problems, this can be seen by looking underneath and checking the exhaust for scrapes where the cats are.
Does the front air dam scrap on driveways?, when I back out of my driveway I backout on an angle and it scrapes a little (front dam that is, the one that it suppose to scrape hense the springs on them).A must is to also install Rocker Savers and Frame savers up front, many vendors carry these, I found A&A to have the less expensive package, and they are very functional, even can use the rocker savers for jacking. But as mentioned there are plenty of quality vendors that sell these items and I am sure they all are quality products.
Not only does it add looks, but it does improve the cornering stability if matched up with proper suspension upgrades (Z06 sways,Bilsteins etc).
If someone tells you it doesnt , they obviously havent drove a lowered vette then.
It comes down to personal preference, and driving ability.
Below is a in depth procedure if you wish to venture into the ranks of Slammed status, if you will., then eventually you will mod the motor, then you can proudly boast that you are "Slammed & Cammed".
Originally Posted by Pizzano
http://www.2phast.com/Corvette/lower.htm
Above is a detailed Pictures included procedure for removing the front bolt, along with that I will give you my procedure
Front Lowering:
First you will have to have the vehicle supported by 2 jack stands under the front crossmember.
You will be using 2 jacks for the procedure(easieast way)
(1) jack that will support the lower ball joint/control arm, and a smaller jack with a small piece of wood for protection while using it to jack/add tension to the front leaf spring.
First off with front tires off, remove the upper control arm 4 bolts(make sure to note if any washers/spacers come out from behind each bolt, and to put them back the exact way they were installed), with the upper control arm loose(support caliper so brake line is not pulled to tight), I also found out it is easier to get the 10mm socket on the lowering bolt if the lower shock bolts are removed, With this in consideration (while you jack the lower ball joint/control arm, position the jack so that you can still get to the lower shock nuts>youll see what i mean<.
The reason for 2 jacks is while your Lowering the lower control arm/ball joint, your going to want to put tension on the front leaf spring, to seperate the spring so that the adjustment bolt backs its self out.
Use the 10mm socket until you cant catch the nut any futher, then you will have to put tension on the spring and lower the Lower control arm all the way, this will give you enough room to back out the adjustment bolt by hand the rest of the way
Once the bolt is removed, you will be raising the Lower ball joint/control arm and relieving the tension on the spring, when there is just enough gap between the spring and lower control arm, insert your gasket material(piece of rubber, or what I did was go to Lowes/Homedepot, and in the plumbing department they have these polyurethane couplers(black)to connect like 6" pvc, Just buy one coupler, and cut 2 pieces out of it for your cushion)
Once this is done, bolt the upper control back up, I do believe the torque is 53ft/lbs,Ill also send you a link showing all torques specs for the C5
http://www.metricchemical.com/C5torque.pdf
The Rear:
Jack up the rear crossmember, leaving wheels on and hanging , or you can remove the wheels.
Remove the adjustable bolts completey,(dont worry, the spring is not under load).
Simply reuse the factory bushings in the same matter they came off as, Install your new bolts/washers/nuts
(grade 8, 7" 1/2"-13 bolt)
(grade 8 1/2" nylon lock nuts)
(grade 8 washers)
these can be found at a local bolt warehouse(I havent found this size at any Home depot or Lowes)
Or for online ordering go to www.boltdepot.com
Once the new bolts are installed , just tighten the nuts with the same amount of threads showing on each side, and go from there as far as how low/high you need to go,(the lesser amount of threads will be lowering the vehicle, the greater amount of threads showing will be raising the vehicle).
Hope this helps
Kevin
Last edited by Pizzano; Oct 6, 2007 at 12:37 PM.
Speed bumps are a pain but what i hate is those little rocks in the road. Going to raise the front end just a tad i think.





I did add the fat daddys just to be on the safe side.
But. I have a great sound system to listen to when the scraping sounds come!!!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I now run Pfadt c/o's, bars, and poly bushings...and a little lower.
You have to drive differently!
Last edited by JETZ; Nov 30, 2007 at 08:33 PM.
But. I have a great sound system to listen to when the scraping sounds come!!!
When I started, I notice that the front susp was already lowered or at least it looked that because the round piece like a lock has space between that and the bottom so I turn the screws about 5-7 turns and the car lift about 1-1.25 inches... I HATE THAT!!! but I had too!..
That´s because on my office, the garage driveway is a long down way, the problem is that instead of the lift, still the part down the door (I dont know the correct name in english) shocks a little, but, with 2 uses, I see some scratches that I hate too much, so... Is there any product or accesory to prevente that? or at least, any product to cover that and the accesory can be replaceble??
I leave a pic where you can see the scratches... My 98 coupe has only 5,000K miles, so I take too much care of it, so thats Why I feel to bad with this...
The car changed the oil at 3,690miles, on November 2006, today it has 5,300miles on it, so that´s why, I hate this kind of damage...




















