Not Sure to pull the trigger
I have the money in hand, this would be my third vehicle 95 jeep wrangler lifted of course lol (winter, DD) 300C (primary, every bolt on, custom ported heads cam, etc..forged motor, 250 shot N20 waiting for diablo to release the CMR programing to dial it in., and meant to cut the miles off my 300, and because I have always wanted a vette.
Now even after all the searching I have done on here, it seems some have no problem with a rebuild others do, for my purpose I don't get rid of vehicles, I keep them because I mod them the way I like, this vette if I get it, I plan to put a big cam, headers, exhaust, and intake with a 100 shot of nitrous lol and leave it like that, maybe new heads eventually. I am taking my performance shop owner/friend with me to look at the vehicle he has 20 plus years working on vettes/mustangs.
17,000 for a rebuild title 76,000 mile frc coupe i am including some pictures of it, would the popular thought be to just walk away? Thanks for helping me make up my mind, I am at an impass.







you...if he gives his approval...then it becomes a question of
price..
Of course 16K for car would be a better deal..considering miles
are medium/high...but if you're planning on some extensive mods...
then probably shouldn't worry about 1-2K..and the salvage resale
isn't going to be an issue for you if your not planning on selling
the car anytime soon.
As for why the car was salvaged...everyone always says..oh..it
was a theft recovery. Because they don't want to mention anything
about a crash or flood..
Last edited by stax68; Sep 9, 2007 at 09:28 AM.
read the codes with the DIC, instructions on the forum, write down every one of them, and if its a history (H) or current (C) and look up what the cause is, codes can help find hidden problems.
make sure the display on the climate control lights up and isn't always dim
take it for a good test drive and make sure the turn signals work...all of the time
see if the owner would let you lay down a small amount of rubber somewhere (somewhere safe and not on a public road) and make sure that the traction control comes on without all kinds of beeping and "service active handling", "service traction control", "service anti-lock brakes" on the DIC.
make sure that when you put int in reverse that the backup lights really come on (not just when you unlock it, but when in reverse)
make sure that the power seat(s) work(s) in all directions; also move the driver's seat all the way forward and check for tears and impressions of the motor assembly in the carpet under it. if there is excessive carpet wear and/or tears it probably means that the PO used the easy entry feature, which tends to drive the rear up/down motor linkage into the carpet under the seat every time it goes back. it tears up the carpet, and breaks the power seat track. $550 for a new one (if you have memory seats) at very low cost forum supporting GM parts vendors.
he might think you're crazy, but test drive it on a rainy day or put a hose to it and check for leaks (especially if it was salvaged due to a collision) the rear glass leaks sometimes. also run water down the windshield and let it drain as it should under the hood. no water inside = good, water pouring into both driver and passenger's sides under the dash = bad. there is a whole sticky somewhere about the C5 leak TSB.
check to make sure it has the column lock bypass installed, this was a factory recall and should have been done by now. although there are aftermarket versions which work better than the factory recall solution.
definitely get full details on why it is a salvaged car. pictures would be great also! as mentioned, if it was flooded, just walk away, the electrical problems you will have will never be worth it.
I bought my C5 which was in almost perfect condition. semi-high mileage, on a dealer's lot, clean carfax. within a week of buying it I found all of the above problems with my car. the first thing I bought for it was a service manual so I could start diagnosing and fixing the problems. the dealer had my money so they told me to go suck an egg. turns out they had lied about its certification status (I talked to GM personally who confirmed it). I have fixed most of the problems with the car, but I still have money I need to spend to fix it all.
it may be hard to walk away from this car if things don't seem to add up, but you will be spending more time tracing electrical gremlins and fixing expensive problems than driving if the car wasn't rebuilt properly. You can't possibly ask too many questions when talking to the owner about it!
On 03/05/2002 is says New owner reported SALVAGETITLE/CERTIFICATE ISSUED REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
on 08/29/2006 Registration issued or renewed
Passed safety inspection,
The vehicle since 2005 has been serviced annually at Jim Cook chevrolet in NC. So obviously it was an accident of some kind, guess I will just have to see, this is the first vette, though that I have found that meets my self imposed price. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it, 17,000 though not huge in the overall scheme of things, it is still enough that I don't want to make a 17,000 dollar mistake that is going to give me grief and become a money pit.
Thanks again
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The deal with the salvage title will be that you will have to explain the title upon your selling of the car. Which may result in a loss of capital to you.
Likewise, there can have any number of associated problems occur that are a result of the original problem.
A salvage title is nothing more than a wavier releasing previous owners of responsibility as a result of ongoing problems. It is in design to make you aware to beware and to wash the hands of those before you.
Depending on what you want out of the car it might be a good fit. Only you can make that decision. You full know what you are getting when you lay down the dough.....



That is the very first question that needs to be answered.
Keep in mind that insurance company's have a tendency to determine a car is a total loss when the repair costs exceed ~30% - 50% of the cars value.
So, assuming the value at the time of repair was ~$20k, the damage was ~$6k to $10k. Thats a lot of damage.
Many times you'll find that someone purchases the car from auction and spends as little money as possible to repair it. In those cases you may find that presently the Vette seems okay, but after a few miles things start to fail - making you spend money to correct what should have been done as repairs. This can get really expensive (we had a member that was in the same boat as you are - purchased a Vette for very little $ against the BB value, salvage title - after a few months the repair costs incurred made the cost of the Vette WAY OVER the BB value).
If the Vette was 'flooded' (and not damaged due to collision), the issue is of more concern. Electrical issues can become one of the most expensive to find, repair and eliminate
- just ask a few of the owners that were in Katrina.It's your money. Consider the issues (read additional monies) that can occur in the future - then consider other Vettes that cost more that this one and do the math.
Good luck - but if you are asking opinions - run away
Rick
Justin
Yea I was'nt too sure it had been wrecked either. But it has a clear title now since it was transfered to North Carolina. I believe it was hit in the front and was very light hit, the car was fixed by Arts Corvettes in Bowling Green, Kentucky. They are a very highly prestige corvette dealership right beside the corvette manufacturing plant in bowling green. But everything had been fixed on it when I had purchased the car and there was no possible evidence that showed it had been wrecked. Thanks
Is it still worth going to look at or just run, far far away.











