2000 C5
The stock clutch didn’t last long after putting on the supercharger. So I have a Spec stage 3 sitting here for it now. I plan on getting started on getting the old clutch out Saturday. I didn’t find a whole lot online as a DIY guide or tips. So I wanted to see if anyone here could give me a heads up on what to expect, whats all needs to be removed or if they could point me to a DIY guide someone has written up.

 

Check out the links in Patch's post. Will give you a little insight into what you're getting into.

Hopefully those who've done it will hand you something...I'm still on my original clutch but know that sooner or later I'll be heading down the same path.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1060082

 

Started Sunday after lunch and got it out before dinner. Monday I went to get the flywheel resurfaced and I think they messed it up rather than fixing it. But the hotspot areas ended up being a problem so I had to order a new flywheel today. So now wait again. But I will now have a spec flywheel to match the clutch I guess.

I read some post about replacing the slave & master clutch cylinders? I'm not sure about all this as I thought I read it had to do with certain year models? Mine is 2000 and has about 64k miles on it. And honestly I don’t feel I can swing getting anything extra at this point after buying the flywheel also. Need to get mobile again ASAP.

Also what is this drill mod I see people talk about? What is it and whats it do? How do you do it if it’s a good idea?

Also can anyone give some things to check when reinstalling everything or should it all go back together like it came apart? I ask this because of people talking about things being lined up and messed up clutch installs. How would one mess it up? Is there some secret stuff I dont know about?

 

If I was you I would replace all clutch related parts when doing the swap....Do it once and not worry about it...

 

That's a HUGE job! Hat's off to you!! You work fast too! I would change out the slave/master too, cheap insurance! Good luck!!

Andy

 

nd change the pilot shaft bearing the drill mod is on the slave you drill the hole out bigger so that the fluid flows easier . and yes i would replace all clutch related parts and install the remote bleeder while you are at it . and wrap the lines so that you don't boil the fluid .

oak

 

How was it doing it on jackstands. I am never scared to do a car project, but alot of people have me scared to do the clutch in it, but I don't know why.

 

I converted my 2001 from an auto to a six-speed on jack stands. Try to get the front up on ramps with a few blocks of wood under ramps and then jack up the rear of car as high as you can. The higher the better.

 

been there. absolutely change the clutch slave cylinder while you have it apart and put the remote clutch bleeder line on it. I would always put a new flywheel on it instead of trying to resurface it. change the pilot bearing, it is about $12. You can change the clutch master later but it only cost about $130. It is real easy. Just a 1/4 turn and it is off. No bolts holding it.

 

You messed up allready... w/ these cars you'll want to have the new clutch/flywheel match balanced to the stock assembly. You use the flywheel and pressure plate (no disk). Now you risk having an imbalence in the motor.

At final assembly, if needed, GM will install an off-balanced flywheel to bring the motor w/ in spec. Somep people get lucky, install a zero-balanced clutch, and get no vibes.

Others, like me, install a zero balanced clutch on a motor that had an off balanced one and get new fantastic driveline vibrations.

Turns out my oem setup had 2 balance weights in the back and was 8 grams out. The machine shop exactly matched my new clutch to that and all is completely smooth.

Also, as said... replace all hydraulics, perform the drill mod, and wrap all clutch lines in something like DEI cool tape.

You can search on the topic... or do what I did, call all the big tuners. They'll all tell you the only way to insure no driveline issues is to match balance the new setup.

 

congrats on taking this project on yourself. alot of people are skurd of this but its not really a bad job to do. I've done it 5 times already since March of this year and feel like Im a pro now. I can have everything out and back in within 6-8hrs tops, all on jackstands by myself.

First thing you want to do is NOT SKIMP on parts. You are already saving $800 or more by doing the labor yourself so put some of that money back into the car where its useful, when everything is back together you will thank yourself even if it means being apart for another week or so.

while everything is apart you should replace/upgrade the following:

*Clutch slave to a 2004 version ($88 I believe from GMPartshouse)
*New pilot bearing ($10.00)
*get some DEI heat shielding and cover the line from the clutch master to the slave and also the line from the reseveor to the master ($20)
*bleeder extension (you can make your own for $20-30 or buy one for $80)

Also check your driveshaft bushings while the TT is out of the car, if they are damaged replace them.

LIke Cobra said you are going to want to have your FW inspected for balancing, if it wasn't zero balanced @ the factory then whatever its off by you are going to want the same for the new unit otherwise you will experience vibrations.

there are some really good writeups by Dope & Cajundude, or you can just post here and one of use will help you along the way. Good luck