Here is my time in a bone stock 2002 Z06 with 50% street tires. Phoenix, AZ at about 7PM temp about 80 degrees. Have read Rangers info. I don't do a burn out other than to clean up the tires a bit.

What do I need to do to get into the 12's???

R/T 0.060
60' 2.124
330' 5.77
1/8 8.173
MPH 85.2010
1000 11.205
¼ 13.320
MPH 107.510

I have noticed others time slips show r/t about .530 etc. Can someone explain this to me? I understand that .000 is perfect so wouldn't .060 be faster than a .530??

Thanks

 

Hi dlangkilde -

I am sure one of the fast guys (Ranger, Dr. Ron etc...) will chime in here...

Your reaction time means nothing - it only applies to a race between you and the car in the other lane. It has absolutely no impact on your 1/4 mile ET.

Reaction time is just that - the elapsed time between the green light and your front tires tripping the starting timer. It does not add into the elapsed time between the first timer and the 1/4 mile timer.

I had much trouble getting my car to launch.

Your 60' times show that you are getting spin off the line (or you are bogging it terribly).

Lower the pressure in your rear supercars to 24.5 lbs, and raise the pressure in the fronts to 40lbs.

Pull around the water box - do not get your front tires wet.

BACK into the water box, but only to the area that has a sheen on it, not into the puddles....

Do a burnout - until you see smoke and the car starts to bog down some.

Then go to the line and focus on letting the clutch out fairly quickly and use the throttle to keep from spinning.

You have to get this down by feel, as it all happens so quickly that if you have to think about it, your time will suffer.

Make as many runs as you can to get experience.

It looks very easy. It is not.

If it makes you feel any better, the first day I took my Z to the track I could not get into the 12's either.

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!

best regards -

mqqn

 

Better tires (think drag radials), work on your launches, maybe reduce tire pressure slightly in the rear and increase tire pressure up front. Don't get hung up on the R/T, that just means the time between the light turning green and the front of your car breaking the photosensor which starts the timer. You could sit there for two seconds and the timer won't start until you cross the beam.

The quick R/T you had may have been because you were too far forward; Ranger implies staying back a bit, that way you are moving quite a bit by the time you cross the beam which starts the timer. I'm no expert but I also read Ranger's info and that's what I took away from it.

Did you only run once? Check your eighth-mile time, I don't think you were going 852 MPH...

 

Well said mqqn.
dlangkilde,
Your 60' is not bad for the first time out. If you follow mqqn's info, you will see your 60' drop even more. It is possible to cut high 1.7x to mid 1.8x 60' times on F1s that are at 50% or even past the wear marks as long as there is good track prep. As you reduce your 60', you can also work on shift speed. Ranger suggests shifting drills. This works extremely well. You will also want to watch your shift points since this will greatly affect ET. ( Your trap speed is on the low side although I'm not sure about your altitude of your track. Your air temp is a little high but I'm sure the air is dry. All of these items will affect your run. ) The best advise is to practice, practice, practice so that it becomes second nature and listen to the advise of the ones who have done it like Ranger, Robz, Dr.Ron, etc.

Good luck and I'm sure that you will see the 12s shortly.

 

I made the correction on the .852 should have been 85.2, thanks.
I have heard that holding the brake during burnout may cause them to glaze. Any truth to that? If so what is the best way to do a burn out with street tires without causing any harm?

 

Hi dlangkilde -

Follow the process I describe above (Ranger's instructions...) - after you back your rear tires onto the shiny area just past the water box, rev it up some and pop the clutch with the car in 2nd gear.

Put your foot lightly on the brake to keep the car from moving forward or sliding sideways. You do not need to push on the brakes hard - and it will not harm the brakes to do this.


best regards -

mqqn

 

Thanks, will give it another try this or next weekend. If I understand r/t it only applies if you want to beat the other lane but has no effect on ones et, correct? Is .060 faster than .530?

 

Hi dlang -

Yes - the lower the number the better - Hot Rod Fuller had a .040 to win Sunday......so .060 is pretty good.

A .530 is over a half a second. At test and tunes the RT means nothing to most guys - if you set up a "grudge match" - run against someone, then cutting a light has some meaning.

best regards -

mqqn

 

Thanks again, appreciated the discussion.

 

Your '60 time and 1/8 mile time should equate to a 12.7-12.8 time at about 113-115. My 02 Z (prior to my vararam install) has run such times with very similar '60 and 1/8 times. Your 85 mph 1/8 speed and 13.3 @ 107 looks like some of the runs I made where I missed 3rd and hit 5th instead (cured that with a B/M shifter). Your public view profile also indicates that your car has a vararam, so the car is not bone stock. With my vararam, I ran a 12.397 with a '60 time identical to yours. IMO, unless there is something wrong with the car, 107 in the traps with a vararam suggests that you are hitting 5th instead of 3rd.

 

Sorry, my profile had a 2004 Z06 which I sold. I now have the 2002 Z06 which is bone stock.
Thanks for the input.

 

Regardless of whether you have a Vararam or not, an 8.1-8.2 in the 1/8mile typically equates to mid to low 12s in C5 Zs.

 

Well I did it. First time under 13.0. Thanks for the help.

R/T .194
60' 2.010
330' 5.525
1/8 8.370
MPH 87.8
1000' 10.787
1/4 12.839
MPH 110.37

 

Cool, very cool, congrats too.

 

are you getting any wheel hop in your stock Z06? Do you have a DTE brace installed?

 

How do you figure that out? I had my first run a little over a week ago, and the times are much different in parts with almost the same exact end result. I know my 60' was horrific...Also, I thought .500 was a perfect reaction time (not that it matters, just curious)? Thanks!

60' 2.517
330' 6.164
1/8 8.975 @ 88.65
1000' 11.349
1/4 13.355 @ 113.14

 

It depends on the tree format they're using. Typically at a T&T night, .000 is a perfect reaction time.

At this stage FORGET about your R/T. It will only cause you to mess up your launch.

Mqqn said it well above. One thing I'll add about your burnout is to bring the revs up at least 5000 rpm before you dump the clutch & quickly step on the brake (just hard enough to keep the car from going forward). Then watch the tach CLOSELY to keep the revs over 5000 so you don't lose your burnout.
If you ever lose your burnout before you're done, back up & wet the tires again. If you can't, then just run it out easy or pull off the track. DON'T try a dry burnout!

Also, I think 1st gear is enough for street tires, since you're likely NOT doing a billowing smokey burnout on F1's. 1st gear is easier for a beginner to do a burnout anyway. I never use 1st gear on street tires.

Wind out each gear to as close to redline as you can & shift as fast as you can too!!!

Practice, practice, practice!!

Ron

 

No wheel hop this time. A couple of months ago I got a lot of wheel hop, but may have been due to the weather here in Phoenix. Its cool now, down to 75 degrees or so. I went down to 25 lbs on the rear tires and they stuck better, plus getting a hang of a little burn out to warm them up and not to heavy on the pedal at the start, just enough to keep it going strong and not spin. No DTE brace.

Its great and I am only 63.

 

FYI, RT only matters when racing someone else. Used to be, before the LED trees, when they were incandescant bulbs, a perfect light was .500. Now with the new system a perfect light, is as mentioned, a .000. With that said, a .040 may have won you that race but it is not a competitive reaction time. I run NHRA and IHRA and if I am slower than a .020 then I probably just lost the race and there's nothing I can do about it except wait for the end of the 1/4 mile to find out.....

And to give RT some perspective, at the end of the track, at our speeds, a tenth (.10) of ET is about a car length. If you have a .000 and the other guy has a .100 reaction and you both run identical ETs, you will be one car length ahead because you had a one car length head start. So you had a 5 car length advantage to arrive at the finish line first just based on your reaction time, whatever your respective ETs were. He would have needed to run a 12.80 just to tie you at the finish line. RT does not change your ET but it does affect your position on the track relative to the other car.