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I have a gently used complete clutch from a 07 Z06 and was wondering if anyone knows of a step by step (with pictures preferred) on changing it out on my 01 Z.
I just did my clutch yesterday and used dopes install. He gives you plenty of info. It wasnt to bad of a job it took me about 11hrs to complete. I also saved myself $850.00 in labor that i was qouted. I posted some pics of it on myspace. here is the link myspace.com/badazzzo6 goodluck with your install.
I just did my clutch yesterday and used dopes install. He gives you plenty of info. It wasnt to bad of a job it took me about 11hrs to complete. I also saved myself $850.00 in labor that i was qouted. I posted some pics of it on myspace. here is the link myspace.com/badazzzo6 goodluck with your install.
Thanks for the link, I have recruited a former Mr Goodwrench (now a nerd like me) to help out and I have access to a lift so Im hoping for a quick change.
Someday I'll tell ya about the 3 month lifter/spring/rod change on my big block.....
Thanks for the link, I have recruited a former Mr Goodwrench (now a nerd like me) to help out and I have access to a lift so Im hoping for a quick change.
Someday I'll tell ya about the 3 month lifter/spring/rod change on my big block.....
With Dope or Cajundudes writeups, this is not a hard job if you have all the right tools and some patience. get the proper tool for removing the pilot bearing and also disconnecting the clutch hydrualic line.
while you are in there make sure you change out your slave cylinder, pilot bearing and look into some heat shielding from DEI for the hydrualic line going from the clutch master to the slave.
other things to look into are an extension line for the bleeder which makes future clutch fluid swaps a BREEZE. Also, search for the drill mod on the slave cylinder.
I just did my clutch yesterday and used dopes install. I also saved myself $850.00 in labor that i was qouted.
Curious...was that a dealer quote or independent tranny shop? I'd like to know what the specs say for # hours for a competent GM mechanic to do this job? I review Dope's procedure (outstanding and clear, btw), and I've done clutch jobs before, but this one would be WAAAAAY out of my league.
Curious...was that a dealer quote or independent tranny shop? I'd like to know what the specs say for # hours for a competent GM mechanic to do this job? I review Dope's procedure (outstanding and clear, btw), and I've done clutch jobs before, but this one would be WAAAAAY out of my league.
-Dean
a performance shop that is a sponsor on all of these boards. They claim the book says a 10hr job and their rate is $85.00 an hour. Do it yourself it is not hard at all. just take your time.
Yellow, it's not so much my mechanical skills but more so having access to the multiple jacks and an extra helper. And also investing in a hundred dollars worth of specialty tools. I'll keep that "10 hour job" reference handy and go from there. I'm looking at an '02 tomorrow with 19K on the ticker (one owner car) so I'm hoping the clutch doesn't have too much chatter associated with it (i.e. glaze build-up or weakened disc springs) so that I can get another 30K or so out of it. The car has factory rubber so I'm already looking at a grand to replace that.
Thanks again for the insight...very informative thread!
A couple of things that you will run into that are not clear in most of the write-ups that I have see are:
The pilot bearing - go to Harbor Freight and buy a blind bearing puller tool - $20 and worth every penny. Use it to remove the pilot bearing.
When you install the new pilot bearing (you were going to replace that $11 part that costs $900 in labor to get to, weren't you?) you install it with the beveled edge facing towards the REAR of the car.
I found it was much easier to remove the torque tube from the transmission and install the torque tube first - I supported the rear of the torque tube with a motorycycle tie-down strap while installing the trans/diff unit.
Buy yourself four 6" 10mm bolts and one 2.5" 10mm bolt to use as a guide for installing the torque tube - put the tube in place - put in the 6" bolts finger tight, then install the 2.5 inch one and draw the torque tube into place. Remove each of the long guide bolts and replace with the stock bolts one by one. Finish by removing the 2.5" bolt and then torque the torque tube bolts down.
This will save you some hassle in my very recent experience.