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Have lost one lug nut on each of my front wheels. I have aftermarkets wheels that I am positive were torqued to the proper spec. when they were changed. Have had the wheels on for at least 18 months now.
Are the studs replaceable as suggested by the service manual? Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue.
What is happening? Is the stud breaking or are the lugs spinning off?
The front studs are easy to swap w/ the hub on the car... most guys who track the cars (road racing) have had to do it a few times. The rears require the hub off the car... there's a "shortcut" that requires a hole to be drilled and no parking brake so it's more for race cars.
If the lugs are just spinning off then it could be a few things... first off what taper does the wheel use and are you using the right lugs? By taper I mean the angled seat at the end of the lug.
For the record I've never ever had a lug come loose in 5 years of screwing w/ these cars. I always torque to 100 ft./lbs.
^ For the fronts you can tap them out w/ a hammer... then you can push the new one in w/ a large C-clamp and a socket to get it started. Then use a lug and a large stack of washers to pull it on through.
If you're breaking studs then you're most likely over-tightening them. 100 ft/lbs means 100... not "click" then a little more.
What is happening? Is the stud breaking or are the lugs spinning off?
The front studs are easy to swap w/ the hub on the car... most guys who track the cars (road racing) have had to do it a few times. The rears require the hub off the car... there's a "shortcut" that requires a hole to be drilled and no parking brake so it's more for race cars.
If the lugs are just spinning off then it could be a few things... first off what taper does the wheel use and are you using the right lugs? By taper I mean the angled seat at the end of the lug.
For the record I've never ever had a lug come loose in 5 years of screwing w/ these cars. I always torque to 100 ft./lbs.
Drilling a hole in the backing plate to change the rear studs does not affect the parking brake in any way. How did you come to this conclusion? I drilled both mine to install the DRM 90,000 psi studs and just added a rubber grommet to seal the hole.
Drilling a hole in the backing plate to change the rear studs does not affect the parking brake in any way. How did you come to this conclusion? I drilled both mine to install the DRM 90,000 psi studs and just added a rubber gromment to seal the hole.
Was this on a C5? There is only one place that you can drill the hole... and to get the stud out you have to remove the parking brake retainer spring.
Getting that back in w/ the hub on took me about 2 hours fiddling w/ two screw drivers... it's a PITA.
In the oem manuals the first part to servicing the parking brake says, "Remove hub/bearing assembly".
^ For the fronts you can tap them out w/ a hammer... then you can push the new one in w/ a large C-clamp and a socket to get it started. Then use a lug and a large stack of washers to pull it on through.
If you're breaking studs then you're most likely over-tightening them. 100 ft/lbs means 100... not "click" then a little more.
10-4 on the method. I always just go to the click....will make sure again by loosening, then retorqueing the rest of them again. Will have to wait until the weekend to replace the missing studs.