I decided now that I got more stuff than space, I need a garage, and I have property available to do it. I'm stationed at Fort Stewart GA and Im still single, so I have the opportunity to build on my property in north FL. I figured with it being the wintertime, the timing would be right, and I could have a big chunk of it paid off by next year so I could refinance it at a lower rate. Cant pass up a good investment opportunity.

What I could use is recommendations. I havent decided on a size, but it looks like I am going with a 44'x60' or 75' Morton building. I'm going to have them put it up then I will be finishing the inside up nice myself; insulation, drywall, clean room for building engines, and a 4 post lift. Should fill nicely and give me a dry place to put my cars

I'll be taking the paperwork to the financial advisor and JAG on post for them to look over before signing anything, just like a house; its the only building on the property too which is nice. I figured I wont be single forever so might want to invest in something like that now while I can afford it. What do you guys think about the finishing touches? floor, 11" ceiling, stuff to make it nice? What I really need is some ideas on how to do it all up nicely without overspending...

 

Man, that sounds great.

I would start out with the building shell, well insulated.

Make sure you have a few skylights, so natural light gets in. Nothing beats natural light when it comes to working on cars.

The electrical service to the building is important. Get you a 200 amp service.

Sounds like you will need a septic tank, or a waste tank that you can have emptied occasionally.

I would consider a 2-post lift rather than a 4-post lift.

 

Good luck to ya buddy,sounds like that's what I would want.

 

There is so much that you should consider.

I built a 6000 sq ft garage in Fl when we lived there. It was masonry, but the same amenities should apply:

1. HVAC and dehumidifier are required. Depending on where in FL you are considering building - heat is also a consideration to allow year around use.

- I elected to use a heat pump, but another person I know went with a commercial (used) 20 ton unit. If I were to do it again I do believe I would consider this option.

2. Bathroom, with shower. Do not build without it, especially if, as you note, the building is 'stand alone'.

3. Stand alone large/deep sink and counter area in the main area - nothing like having it available for large cleaning projects.

4. Electrical outlets - you cannot have too many

- Don't forget the ceiling ones (for drop cords, power for a lift, lights, etc.).

5. If you can, set aside an alcove or specific area for a small table or recliner type chair.

6. Cabinets, carbines, cabinets - did I mention cabinets?

- Nothing worse that not having storage space for tools and 'stuff'. Check around with resale companies to find good deals on cabinets (used) and counter tops.

7. Air compressor unit. Consider an outside LARGE volume one. Do not forget to 'plumb' multiple outlets inside.

8. Consider, other than in areas where the vehicles will be worked on, installing inside/outside carpet (cars can be driven on this with minimal affects on the material).

9. Flooring in other areas is a personal preference - consider the price/cost and longevity of the product.

10. Consider installing sky lights. Natural light will benefit you in numerous ways (I.e., electric cost, better visibility during the day time, etc.).

11. Consider installing a few windows - make sure that if you go this route the windows are high enough off the ground that it would be difficult for someone to stand outside and see in to the garage.

- Also consider dual pane.

- Also consider tinting (one way effect - you can see out - can't see in).

12. Make sure the doors (rolling) are high enough (10' high by 10/12 fool wide is good). Make sure these are insulated!

13. Installation of a metal door for exit/entrance is a must have - no need to use the large bay doors for other than vehicle uses.

14. Power (amp) requirements - make sure you have enough to support all needs. I went with an initial 200 amp, had to have a alternate run or 100 amps installed later on, an expensive mistake.

Hope this assists.

 

All good advice. Make sure that the concrete floor is strong enough in the areas of support for the lift.

11" ceiling height is just a little low. 11' should be fine.


Good luck. Mark

 

Is this land for just a garage, or will you be adding a residence to it later. Make sure you are covered as far as the zoning is concerned. Give yourself room to work on the land. If this is just for a garage, are you setting it up properly for re-sale down the road. You don't want to stick yourself with what you may feel is a nice garage, but a pink elephant to someone else. Plans always change down the road.
Is Morton your best bet, or could someone locally build it for you cheaper. The construction crews must be starving in Fla. right now.
Good advice above, plenty of outlets, light, power, air etc. A building that size could use a couple of man doors.
Good luck.

 

A drain in the floor is always nice too. Even in Floriduh it gets cool enough to want to wash and detail your car inside. If you put in a bathroom the extrra pluming should be a piece of cake.

 

A deer stand on top would be ideal

 

Sounds like a good plan. Make sure there are plenty of outlets, plenty of lights, a deep sink for cleaning parts and hands, good HVAC system, and plenty of storage. Best of luck with your garage.

 

I am now in the process of having a 3 bay garage built, although much smaller that your plan. I, like you, am trying to not forget any details. I made a list, have worked on it for quite some time. I am going by it to make sure that i don't miss anything, or at least, try not to. Do a lot of prior planning...
Good luck.....

 

12' ceiling minimum. Cheap to do now. Also try to avoid having the OH door tracks over the lift working area. I've had both two and four post lifts. The two post gives you more access to the underside of your car, but cars shouldn't be stored on them with the running gear hanging from the springs and shocks. Also Corvettes are so low that trying to put one on a two post lift may require running it up on planks to allow swinging the arms under the car. Four post lifts give you plenty of clearance under the car, but they aren't the best way if you want to work on the suspension a lot. But the ramps included do make for easy loading/unloading, and great storage. Also the car will create a shadow over your work if you have lighting above it. By mounting the lighting low on a wall if it is close will better light the work area. Of course, you still need some lighting above when it's down. I use a cheap work light with those clear tubes and it throws off plenty of light to work from. They come with a tripod and are easy to move around under the car.

 

All good advice. The only thing I saw was your 60 x XX dimension.
60 is not divisible by 8, so you'll have 1 post at 4 feet. Use 64...

 

Yes on many of those things.

The area where the lift will be is going to have rebar installed before I pour. Cost... nothing. Why not?

There will be plenty of electrical and a minimum of 4 230v outlets. Welder, air compressor, and HVAC.

Speaking of A/C, I have a small unit I can use for drying the air as well as another dehumidifier... and I also have the new 4 ton A/C unit that was in the house before it got hit. A/C came out ok and was only 4 months old.

I couldnt figure how to make using a 2 post lift less of a pain so I opted for 4 post. And it's more stable than the 2 post... but I cant find one of those either yet with an airjack that will clear a vette.

sink, yes. Minifridge, yes. Beer banners... check. insulation... doing it myself all over. drywall...roger. windows...thats affirmative. with security bars. cleanroom for engines inside including a tiled black and white floor and glass door; rest of the floor will be painted with garage floor paint, the oil resistant junk.

Plenty of garage lights inside. security lights and system outside.

to completion, the whole project including a new compressor and lift should be around $70k, permits, wire, plumbing and ready to go.

Did I mention the ebay traffic signal at the driveway since all my friends want in on it?

12' is the ticket. Over that they have to put trusses all over in the middle of the shop and 10' is pushing it for anything on a lift taller than a C5. the price doesnt jump up alot until you go over 12'. This is because they build it differently over 12' for hurricane resistance. The building is rated to 130MPH sustained, including the garage doors.

Got space set aside, I can live in the damn thing if I really wanted to.

I have some heavy duty benches, there will be more. Cabinets? oh yeah. Bins? count on it. Lots of stuff

Even got the C5 flag for the wall

on my way home for the weekend to do some of the legwork with the builder's rep! This will give me a nice present to come home to when I get back from Iraq...again.

 

12 foot ceilings for a two post lift will be a minimum for most clear floor lifts.

 

I like the idea of building a space to live in it if you need/want to. Why not? If you have an apartment somewhere else and this is a real guys hangout, you'll want cable, food and more... If you already have that at an apartment and have to pay for it all again here, it will add up... It seems only logical to set yourself up to live there if you want to. A small kitchen, bathroom and medium bedroom will take up 350 sq. feet of space... Just over 10% of a 48x64 building...

What or how many cars will be stored in this "shack"?

How much will your friends invest in this venture? Any? Will that prevent you from living there? All stuff to think about and I agree with much of what has been brought up earlier... especially the 12 ft ceilings.. a nice height for working on the vette but even more so if you work on something else... like a pick-up or something... then it's a must. Of course, be sure to look into taller lifts so you don't have to stoop down to get under it.

Good luck!!

And BTW.. thanks for your service before and now again!!

 

Vroom ended with THE MOST IMPORTANT PART, and unfortunately was the first to say, which I am embarrassed about, thanks for your service and good luck.

 

my lift is 11'6" so 12' would be the minimum. one thing i wish i would have thought of is to have a pit with a drain between the lift arms. have the concrete poured so as to have a ledge so grating will fit over it and have some plating over the grating for everyday use. then when you want to powerwash the undercarriage of a vehicle, pull the plating and all the water goes into the pit and drains.

 

Drains, while a great idea can add huge costs to the project if done correctly. By correctly, I mean complying with what our codes around here would consist of. It depends on the enforcement there, but it's not as simple as it sounds. Worth checking though.

 

I made the mistake that I didn't have drains put in to my 2.5 car garage until after it was built. Don't make the same mistake. Good luck with the construction.

 

If it's on the same property as your house, don't forget phone/intercom back to the main house. You'll also might consider having a computer in the space for using for technical information (Forums, All Data etc.) also for ordering parts and running CD Manuals and diagnostic software for your cars.

Also, put in a killer stereo and wall mount speakers and flat panel TV.

Overhead sprinkler system for fire protection maybe, monitored building alarm (ADT, Brinks, etc) is a must if it's standalone garage with valuables inside.

Also, look at your window placement design. Skylights should be your main source of natural light, minimize windows and those not facing easy view of for anti theft protection. Don't put windows facing woods, too easy to sneak up to. Unfortunately, you have to try and make it hard to break in to.

Have fun,