K&N Air filter initial install
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
K&N Air filter initial install
Haven't come across this with the search feature.
I'm doing the initial changeover to the K&N drop in filter and there is a seal that has to be installed. It looks like there is no way to install it without removing the whole induction box? What's the easiest way to remove it?
I'm doing the initial changeover to the K&N drop in filter and there is a seal that has to be installed. It looks like there is no way to install it without removing the whole induction box? What's the easiest way to remove it?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
The oem C5/Z06 air filter assembly is attached to two pegs on the metal horizontal cross member beneath the front fascia. The assembly has two rubber grommets that secure to pegs, just like the two grommets/pegs on top of the radiator cover which secure the oem air bridge.
The easiest manner is to remove the entire assembly from the throttle body down to the air filter assembly. It's an easy DIY that you should familiarize yourself with anyway.
Loosen the worm clamp at the throttle body, release the air bridge from the two pegs on the radiator cover, remove the wire connector from the MAF (or air bridge, depending on year of vehicle) and wiggle the air filter assembly off the two pegs on the cross member. Install the K&N w/ seal and reverse the procedure.
You should use some lubricant on the four grommets/pegs which will make future R&R much easier. I prefer white lithium. Here is an image of my oem air filter assembly (slightly modified for more square inches of inlet air) showing the position of the rubber grommets...
The easiest manner is to remove the entire assembly from the throttle body down to the air filter assembly. It's an easy DIY that you should familiarize yourself with anyway.
Loosen the worm clamp at the throttle body, release the air bridge from the two pegs on the radiator cover, remove the wire connector from the MAF (or air bridge, depending on year of vehicle) and wiggle the air filter assembly off the two pegs on the cross member. Install the K&N w/ seal and reverse the procedure.
You should use some lubricant on the four grommets/pegs which will make future R&R much easier. I prefer white lithium. Here is an image of my oem air filter assembly (slightly modified for more square inches of inlet air) showing the position of the rubber grommets...
Last edited by hotwheels57; Dec 10, 2007 at 07:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
Can't get the darn wire connector loose....and I killed an outlet in the garage so no decent lighting. Guess this is going to wait for another day, any tips on getting that connector off?
Last edited by lockmart; Dec 10, 2007 at 09:19 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,333
Likes: 6
From: Louisville Kentucky
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
Read CRC cleaner was good to, just spray some on and wipe off I guess? Only have 13K miles but figured while it is exposed might as well clean it, dealer tried to get me to spend $90 to have it cleaned and that was at 10K miles.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Regarding the connection at the MAF, the small white clip gets pulled out first...be careful it'll go flying. Then the connection can be pulled apart.
Just spray the MAF wires with specific MAF aerosol cleaner. Don't wipe the excess off the wires or they might be damaged.
Just spray the MAF wires with specific MAF aerosol cleaner. Don't wipe the excess off the wires or they might be damaged.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
Thanks, I've got a grey clip I took out but still wasn't budging. I'll see if there is another clip in addition to or maybe I just need to carefully wiggle it more. Was concerned about damaging it. I decided to wait for daylight to make it easier especially being the first time I've taken that stuff apart.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
Got it installed over lunch, thanks for the tips. Daylight made all the difference too. Would have waited, but I had a rare free min with no smoke blowing from the neighbors house last night and tried it, worked through the smoke at lunch and got it put on.
Looks like it's running about 5 degrees hotter though, is that normal?
Looks like it's running about 5 degrees hotter though, is that normal?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Wesley Chapel FL
OK that's what I figured, don't recall every seeing the coolant above 195 but 200 isn't much difference, was a bit warm outside.
My throttle body was spotless from what I could see but didn't open the valve, I figured at 13K miles why mess with it. I'll do it myself when the time comes.
My throttle body was spotless from what I could see but didn't open the valve, I figured at 13K miles why mess with it. I'll do it myself when the time comes.
