I saw this in a BOND movie, it wasn't good RUNNNNNNN

 

Is there a mileage/time limit on the recall, I am the 4th owner and at 180K could I still do the third recall or is the CLB still the best option?

 

So knowing this you can pay for 15 keys made and break into any C5 on the planet?

 

Click the link above and read the PDF notice. Pay attention to the phases and the latter half as it gives you the step-by-step procedures. You will be completely aware of what GM is telling the dealer service to do.

Or you can spend a half hour installing the bypass module.

I'm not aware of any bypass module installation failing in the field.

There is no charge for this recall, print a copy of the notice and take it with you. It states this in case there is any issue with local service, otherwise contact GM at the number they provide and they will educate the dealer service.

There is rumors of a time period in 08 where they will no longer pay for the repairs. I cannot comment on that yet as I don't know the truth.

 

No. Those are just the resistors pellets. You'd need a lot of keys and then the security system will make you wait several minutes before you can try the next key. The owner will probably show up before you reach the correct key-pellet combination.

 

Well my car was broken into recently so I am wonder how the heck they did it, alarm was on, and still on when I got in the car in the morning. Only thing was my stereo and speakers where missing.

 

Probably a car thief could better answer that question, but on the bright side they didn't steal the Vette.

Sorry that happened to you.

 

No worries

 

Remember, that pellet is only for the security system, to allow the car to run. You still have to have the correct key cut to turn the door lock and turn the ignition. It won't help you break in to a car to know the resistance.

 

I had the same problem combined with column lock.

My dealer said that it was due to acomputer issue with a ground, and they need to clean the ground under the battery, and it was "very" difficut to do due to the location - BS. they charged me 250 to wire brush and sand a ground - had a litte corossion which was causing all kinds of electrical issues.

not sure if this is your issue or not, but thought I would share...

 

Rich,

Did you get my email? I think I answered all your question and hopfully steered you in the right direction.

DJ

 

Dennis - yes I did. Many thanks for your help. (As we say over here; "it's as clear as mud")

 

Funny. We say that too.

To answer a few other queries found on this rant:

1) a dealer can not (not supposed to anyway) provide anyone with a duplicate key UNLESS you can prove ownership of the car for which the key is being made for. (I checked w/my dealer...)

2) re: the GM cut off repair date on the column lock issue. I have a letter from GM that states they will no logner be reponsible after 2/29/08. My local dealer confirms this as well as the west coast/pacific GM rep. Also note, they will not provide any preventative measures. The problem MUST exist prior to them doing anything and of cousre prior to the cutoff date.

You can wait till Feb. '08 and take your chances or you can buy the column lock bypass system and be done wih it. I am continualy amazed that GM does not buy the CLBS and install it for free.... Certainly it is a hell of a lot cheaper than any of their 3 "fixes". Could be an issue of "make ***" on their part. I see a class action suit in the making if GM refuses to warrant this safety issue.

My local dealer under the cloak of secretcy, darkness & underhanded in-house policy (don't ask, don't tell; just betwen the service writer/tech/me) is going to remove the "K" harness that was a GM fix and install the CLB system. Lucky me. I butter them up pretty good.

If you want to discuss this issue further with GM they have provided a toll free number: 1-800-6302438. If you are not happy with the answer you get you can call the NHSTA at 1-888-3274236 to file a complaint.

Happy hunting & good luck!

 

You guys are obviously smarter than me. I got out my Ohm meter, now what? Mine has 5 settings and none of them show up when I "touch" the pellet. There is 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, and 2m. WTF??? And where do you put the leads, positive goes where, negative goes where?

 

You're just checking the resistance of the resistor in the key...doesn't matter which probe is on which side. Put one on one side, one on the other, and hold with your fingers. I think I put my ohmmeter on 2k, and it gave me a .1467 reading. If I put it on 200, it should give me 1.467. 20K would be .01467.

Either setting should give you some sort of reading.

 

Damn thing jumps all over the place! And the reading will only stay on for a second and then it goes blank. First reading is something like 1495, hit it again and it reads 825, hit it again and it goes to 1025??? What am I doing wrong?

 

You might want to check the battery in your ohmmeter. Other than that...I'm not sure what may be going wrong. The resistor should be reading steady, whatever the value.

Make sure the probes are only touching the metal 'staple'-looking pieces of the pellet, and not the key itself.

 

The meter is brand new. I had my wife hold the key(s)so I could touch the metal strip without it jumping in my hand. Both her key and mine did the same thing - readings all over the place! I'm going to take it to our local (gasp) dealership to see what they think. The only reason I care is last nite got that "wait 10 seconds..." with my key in the ign. The rest of the evening is was OK. Just trying to be cautious. But these readings give me pause???

 

Did you pull the fuse as I described and see if there is any difference whether it displays that notice again?

Sorry I posted that info in another thread, here:

If you are getting a msg stating "SERVICE COLUMN LOCK" or "PULL KEY AND WAIT 10
SECONDS", shut the car off and once again pull fuse #25 and leave it unplugged for 10
minutes. Reinstall it and all error messages should be cleared and should not return.



In regards to your DVM questions:

Usually you have two probes a red one and a black one which should plug into the DVM where the black probe plugs into the Common port and the red into the V or Ω (Ohms) port. You should have settings one for AC and one for DC ensure your is set to DC.

Next you'll probably have a setting for mA, V, and Ω (Ohms), set your to Ω.

You will have value settings for the type of voltage or amperage or ohms your reading. Depending on what your measuring you set it to that scale. If you don't select the right scale all that will happen is the value will have the decimal place in a different position. So instead of 1.4 you might see .14 or 14. depends on what you have set. Either way if your looking for 1.4 and you get .12 that means your just under the value your looking for.

Now with the DVM on and the probe not touching you should see 1 with the settings from above that is DC and Ohms.

Now put the two probes together and it should go to 0 quickly.

Set your scale to 20k.

Have your wife hole the key while you touch the probes one to each side of the metal of the chip in the key. For example I did it without any assistance and I get .52

Use that value to identify the correct resister from the list above.

Now with the power turned on the DVM and the probes not touching you should see 1 on the display.

As far as which probe where just determines whether you see a positive value on the display or a negative value, for example if I have the probes one way I get .52 if I swap them I get -.52.

 

It is very difficult to do without someone (or a vice) to hold the key while you hold the probes firmly against the pellet.