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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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Default Changing leather seat covers

My nearly 9 year old stock seat covers have begun to tear at a seam so it is time to change them.

I just "won" a set off of the bay and am curious; how easy/hard is it to change the factory seat covers yourself?

I've never attempted it so I have no idea.

This is what the ones I'm getting look like.






I am going to have the headrests embroidered with the C5 flags as shown in the last pic.

Also, for those of you who have changed your seat covers, do the aftermarket ones eventually get millions of tiny cracks in them like the stock ones do?
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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Here is a link to the instructions I followed when I did the seats in my wifes vette. Couple of hours and new seat skins on. You may want to consider new foam for the seats since your going to have them apart. Contact Gene at GMpartshouse.com.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...er_change.html
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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The instructions provided by Vette Essentials are excellent and guide you step by step through the process.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Who's going to embroider that C5 logo for you, and exactly what color is that, black and________? Looks nice
I tried to get someone to embroider the C5 logo for me and they ran scared, copyright or something....
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by renegad44
Who's going to embroider that C5 logo for you, and exactly what color is that, black and________? Looks nice
I tried to get someone to embroider the C5 logo for me and they ran scared, copyright or something....
the manufacturer of the covers is going to do it. they are black and tan, or lt oak.

i can't mention the mfr because they're not a supporting vendor, but if you want the name, PM me.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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Here are the covers I installed in my coupe
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:24 PM
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Post an update when they get in, I am planning on getting a set from the same seller in grey/black and would love to know how the quality is
~B~
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SUNNYD 95

Here are the covers I installed in my coupe
wow those look just like the ones i'm getting. are you pleased with them?
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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Jason, make sure you replace the foams. I'm sure that your seat bottoms will need to be replaced. The spring wires cut into the foams. I'm only 150lb and they were cut about 1/2''/3/4" on the drivers seat. I cut two pads of 3/8" closed cell foam to place over the seat wires, then the new foam. Also you will want to address the seat bolsters. The fiberglass seat shell is very sharp and adds to the foams being cut and marking the seat skin. I used some extra air line tubing (from my fish tank) split the tubing and glued it to the wings at the bolsters. I think the VE sells a cover for them if you want to go that route.
I used VE instructions and it took about 6+ hours total. To help stretch the new skins ...toss them in your dryer for a few minutes to make them softer so you can get the wrinkles out... Good luck, It's very rewarding to do it yourself. Bill
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:14 AM
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thanks for the tips bill & mrWW.

my car almost never has a passenger, so i can't imagine that the passenger foam will need to be replaced.

i'll check into what i need to do the driver's side only.

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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:17 AM
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Please post an update after the install.

I've seen those covers as well and was thinking of ordering a set.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:31 AM
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Jason

Looks like you already had some good advice but I'll add my own 0.02c.

I had my own covers off to fit my heated seats although I didn't take the lower cover off in the end. Like everyone else I used the Vette Essentials How To and it was great.

I had no problems at all except for the hog rings which are a real PITA. Rather than stuggle with them I replaced them with zip ties when I was putting it back together. Its stayed fixed for over 2 years so I guess it was a success. The only other thing which was a fiddle was the electrical connector which is hard to get at under the seat. It took a few minutes to disconnect it and the clip onto the frame is easily broken.

Thats a mod I'd like to do at some stage in the future when I can justify the $$. Post up some pics when they're fitted.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:41 AM
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In reference to buying new seat foam, I was thinking of glueing on a layer of... say 1" foam over the original seat foam. Has anyone done or looked at doing that versus buying all new seat foam????
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmvette
I just "won" a set off of the bay and am curious; how easy/hard is it to change the factory seat covers yourself?
Care to divulge how much you won them for?
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 07:35 AM
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Nice,I want a set of yellow/black and some new foam and seat heaters for my seats. Maybe eventually. I do have the C5 logo on the headrests like that and I get a lot of comlpliments.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tstar
In reference to buying new seat foam, I was thinking of glueing on a layer of... say 1" foam over the original seat foam. Has anyone done or looked at doing that versus buying all new seat foam????
The problem isn't the top of the old foams it's the bottoms where the spring wires cut the foams. When I removed the old foam bottoms the top showed no signs of any problems but as I mentioned the part of the foam that sits on the thin wires cut deep into the foam. That's the reason I used some closed cell foam under the new bottoms. It takes more weight to cut the stiffer foam than it takes to cut the soft foam. I wish I still had the photos that I posted when I did the seats. Bill
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tstar
In reference to buying new seat foam, I was thinking of glueing on a layer of... say 1" foam over the original seat foam. Has anyone done or looked at doing that versus buying all new seat foam????
The top seat foam has several strips of industrial velcro (as does the bottom of the leather) to secure and help keep it flat. I would suggest buying new for the drivers side as suggested. Also, when I did mine, the drivers side foam at the door side called the Halo was cut from constant pushing off to exit the car. I am a bigger guy, so maybe you won't have that problem.

Second suggestion, forget the Hog rings...cut off the old ones and use industrial tie wraps. Make it much easier to bring the two pieces together and secure them.

Thirdly do not, I repeat do not buy your Xmas tree plugs from GM. They want $5 apiece and you have to buy a bag of 10, and guess what, you need 12 so its $100. Even if you find a dealer that will sell them piece meal, it is still $60 plus tax. Google "Cliplink" and 20189. For a C5 the plugs are $5, for a Ford&Chrysler the same plug is $8.12........for a box of 50. Yeah shipping is $8.95, but even if you didn't go in with someone else, its still only $16 for the 50.

It's actually an easy job, take your time, follow the instructions and lastly, don't pull too hard on the cloth extension attached to the bottom cover...they rip easy But that's another story

Halo Foam piece...



X-mas Tree plugs



Picture of my bottom velcro strips; PS Thanks Jimmy for the help



Finished Product


Last edited by mowton; Mar 8, 2008 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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Excellent info and post!!!!!!
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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zip ties are the way to go I had some 1/4" wide ties and all you have to do is cinch them down slowly and stretch the skins. With hog rings it may be a 2 man job..

Edit.... Jason if you need more xmas plugs let me know I have 6 left over from when I did my seats.( yes I bought the two packs ) You are more than welcome to them free of charge just pm me your address and I'll mail them out. Bill

Last edited by Bill Vett; Mar 8, 2008 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Vett
The problem isn't the top of the old foams it's the bottoms where the spring wires cut the foams. When I removed the old foam bottoms the top showed no signs of any problems but as I mentioned the part of the foam that sits on the thin wires cut deep into the foam. That's the reason I used some closed cell foam under the new bottoms. It takes more weight to cut the stiffer foam than it takes to cut the soft foam. I wish I still had the photos that I posted when I did the seats. Bill
I actually found one of he bladder hoses threaded on top of the spring wire. Really surprised it didn't cut through. Good thing it was on my wifes side.
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