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I have a 16254177c psb. What would be the difference between a B and a C ?? I have not Idea what this came out of. Model # is 16255791 Came from parts warehouse #23 block 14 row 56 shelf 11 box 22
You need a P/N 16254177B power board then... assuming that you had a 10436062 model HVAC in your 01 Z. Is there anyway you can verify the power board part number OR HVAC model number for me????
Tim
The HVAC Model # on the back of the HVAC unit itself is # 09380441
If you tell me how to find the model #'s for the power board and display board I can certainly let you know as soon as I get it back in the mail.
Would any of this matter if I bought a new HVAC unit from gmdirect? Or are the model numbers only important when dealing with replacing the power board or display board separately?
the 090380441 was a 2002 model HVAC, it's possible your Vette was made late in the model year and get a new HVAC or it's been replaced already...
No if you're getting a new one all of this is mute, it only matters if you're doing a board swap. Make sure they sell you a M/N 10345293, this is the latest model and superceeds all 00-04 models.
I have a '97 6-speed (aftermarket hu)(single zone hvac) and want to go blue led's everywhere exept traction I want red. The cargo and under dash lights I dont need done, I have gone a different route with those. I have read this thread and more confused than when I started. What do I need? PLEASE HELP!
I have a '97 6-speed (aftermarket hu)(single zone hvac) and want to go blue led's everywhere exept traction I want red. The cargo and under dash lights I dont need done, I have gone a different route with those. I have read this thread and more confused than when I started. What do I need? PLEASE HELP!
You'll need
- a LOT of blue type 74 twist lock LEDs: (4 for drivers side door controls, 2 for passenger side door controls, 3 for the DIC buttons,
- a special 8mm blue LED for the illumination dimmer ****
- I reccomend pre-wired 5mm LEDs for the TC panel. If you have selective ride, you'll need 3 of them, if it's just teh TC button, you'll only need 1
- For the HVAC you'll need 14 LEDs total (type 74 twist locks make you life really easy if you take apart the bulb from the base) . I reccomend getting 2 of the 14 red for the heater side of the HVAC controls. or it will look purple on the red arc.
that should do it.
If you're feeling ambitious, you can solder the type 74 wires into place to make sure they dont' come loose...espcially the ones in the dash.
Radio Flyer pretty much says whats needed. You can save a little money by Making your own door switch leds with bare blue leds and resistors. Its very easy and covered in the thread somewhere.The passenger word on the hvac doesnt get enough coverage with just 1 led.Some boards have provisions for adding a couple there. I use a 3 led strip piggybacked off the led next door.
There are a couple areas in the radio you can also use this method on.
Definitely put blue leds behind the blue temp sweeps.Looks awsome.
As Radio and nascar stated there's a lot of bulbs to replace if you're converting your whole interior. the very first post in here will give you the amount of LEDs you'll need. If that doesn't help, let us know what options you have ie. Memory, HUD, Selective Ride ect...
One guy posted in the old Thread about converting his single zone HVAC but I can't find it right now...
If you don't mind spending the money, sure why not? Of course there's no garantee (however it's spelled, I hate spelling this stupid word!) that it is the processor...
Do you have the equipment to replace an IC? I've never tried replacing one with just an iron and a solder sucker... I suppose it can be done if you're very patient.
Thanks to Tim, I have one here ready to be cracked and converted.Did you knock down the helper led with a resistor??We all would love to see more pics of it apart and what it looks like in your car!!
Did you get all of them to light up? Also any good tricks to cracking the case open??
Tim
Yes, I got them all to light up, although the ouside rows do not light up fully due to different resistence levels in the stock wiring (as the stock LEDs had a middle row of blue lights that evidently are different than the outer yellow lights). But you really do not notice once the lights are on -- they are much brighter than stock!
I used the website you gave me a few pages ago as a guide -- www.spdkilz.com -- very helpful tech tip! The LED cover plates are hard to pry off and harder to get back in - take care not to knock the LED circuit board around too much or you will loosen the LED soldering and the lights will go out. I had to re-solder several times. Use alot of solder to prevent this.
I used a very small flathead screwdriver to pry the face surround off the mirror base in several places. It came off fairly easily, actually. Make sure you hold the actual glass mirror in place or it may fall off the backing mount. Getting to the center "helper" light was not too hard; just pull the main circuit board off the mirror backing slightly and use your small flathead to wedge the LED out of its hole. 2 snips of the wires and just insert a new LED into the wire looms and you are done.
Thanks to Tim, I have one here ready to be cracked and converted.Did you knock down the helper led with a resistor??We all would love to see more pics of it apart and what it looks like in your car!!
I did not put a resistor on the "helper" LED. It is brighter than stock for sure, but it is not distracting at night and puts a cool blue/white glow on the shifter area. I did not take any pics of the mirror while apart, as I was doing this in my garage at night and wanted to finish as fast as possible. There are pics on www.spdkilz.com of the process that I used that were very helpful. I will take some more pics of the interior at night to show you what the effect is.