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From: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have Halos - and the part that you are looking at modifying is the part that flashes with the turnsignals and gets brighter with the application of the brakes. The halo is "static" and only active with the lights on.
Just thought I'd mention that - good luck with your project....and no I have not dissected my halos.
Hey George, the Halo Bars are only lighted by 4 of the 32 LEDs in the unit. You won't be able to get the 4 LEDs that light the Halo Bars bright enough. It's also not a dual circuit running to the Halo Bars, so you wouldn't have high & low intensity for brake lights. Without entirely redesigning the light, it won't work buddy.
Richard
Hey George, the Halo Bars are only lighted by 4 of the 32 LEDs in the unit. You won't be able to get the 4 LEDs that light the Halo Bars bright enough. It's also not a dual circuit running to the Halo Bars, so you wouldn't have high & low intensity for brake lights. Without entirely redesigning the light, it won't work buddy.
Richard
I could run with the Halo bars as running lights (no alteration to the circuit nessicary) and re-wire the center section to come on ONLY with brakes or turn signals.
I could run with the Halo bars as running lights (no alteration to the circuit nessicary) and re-wire the center section to come on ONLY with brakes or turn signals.
I could run with the Halo bars as running lights (no alteration to the circuit nessicary) and re-wire the center section to come on ONLY with brakes or turn signals.
That could work George. But I do have concerns that the Halo Bars alone, wouldn't be enough light output at night to serve as your taillights. I'd love to see the look though.
That could work George. But I do have concerns that the Halo Bars alone, wouldn't be enough light output at night to serve as your taillights. I'd love to see the look though.
Richard
According to texas state law: (TRANSPORTATION CODE
CHAPTER 547. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT Subchapter "E" § 547.322.)
quote:
(d) A taillamp shall emit a red light plainly visible at a
distance of 1,000 feet from the rear of the vehicle.
With halos this shouldn't be a problem, however I will obviously test them prior to use. The stoplamp brightness output should not be affected.
Okay, Taking them apart isn't as difficult as I'd thought and i'm pretty close to having a wiring diagram figured out. I thought I was going to need polarized diodes but i may not.
Here's the halo with the back plate removed:
As you can see it's mostly a circuitboard for the Chip-style LEDs. The Halo LEDs are on the sides and are run off of what appears to be a seperate circuit.
here it is during testing:
Here's the critical section:
As you can see there are 4 wires that go to the Halo ring: red, orange, yellow and black. I measured the voltage on the red and orange wires to be 4.8v and 2.6 volts respectively with the running lights on. There appeared to be no fluctuation with either of these with the hazard lights flashing so i believe these to be a deticated circuit for the Halo rings.
The plan is to disconnect the running light (+) wire from the inner halo section, install the appropriate resistor and wire them exclusively to the halo ring. It sounds easy however i'm having a hard time determining which of the colored wires is the halo ring's positive.