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The reason the lights won't go down is because the system THINKS you have a bulb burnt out (no current draw on the original connector) The proper way to solve this issue is to add a relay as a load for the low beams, You also have to mount a relay for both passenger and driver sides. You will also need a relay for the highs if they are not connected. Somewhere aroung 2002 Corvettes started monitoring the bulbs from what I've heard. The relay should accomplish the same thing as the bulb does except it won't produce the uneeded light and heat in the engine compartment. The following site explains the relay circuits in good detail.
The reason the lights won't go down is because the system THINKS you have a bulb burnt out (no current draw on the original connector) The proper way to solve this issue is to add a relay as a load for the low beams, You also have to mount a relay for both passenger and driver sides. You will also need a relay for the highs if they are not connected. Somewhere aroung 2002 Corvettes started monitoring the bulbs from what I've heard. The relay should accomplish the same thing as the bulb does except it won't produce the uneeded light and heat in the engine compartment. The following site explains the relay circuits in good detail.
I have the setup you're suggesting and my lights go down 50% of the time. I'm leaning heavy to the bulb addition. I don't think that two of those bulbs would put of enough heat to change the temperature in the engine compartment 1 degree.
I have the setup you're suggesting and my lights go down 50% of the time. I'm leaning heavy to the bulb addition. I don't think that two of those bulbs would put of enough heat to change the temperature in the engine compartment 1 degree.
Wouldn't cost much time and $ to try it out, easily reversible
It works great and only costs about 5 bucks ive got a huge response from CF members and no negative reviews, you only ned to do this to one side, i worked hours and hours to remedy this problem because i love my hid's but it drove me nuts that i had to put on my high beams to drop the lights. the bulb tucks nicely in the area under the headlight assembly, any questions you can PM me and ill be glad to help. It takes longer to remove the headlight assembly than to wire it in, GOOD LUCK
PS ive tried the whole relay and resistor way and i had no reults this was the easiest and most convienent way. PM me if this works for you THANKS JOE
It works great and only costs about 5 bucks ive got a huge response from CF members and no negative reviews, you only ned to do this to one side, i worked hours and hours to remedy this problem because i love my hid's but it drove me nuts that i had to put on my high beams to drop the lights. the bulb tucks nicely in the area under the headlight assembly, any questions you can PM me and ill be glad to help. It takes longer to remove the headlight assembly than to wire it in, GOOD LUCK
PS ive tried the whole relay and resistor way and i had no reults this was the easiest and most convienent way. PM me if this works for you THANKS JOE
Well cook me some grits and spank me with bacon!
I don't want to PM you Joe because some of the other forum members might have the same questions. First, does it matter which side you do? I hope not because I've got my driver's side out right now fixing the broken "golden rod". What a PITA this is becoming.
Secondly, where's the original thread you posted about this?
First off, let me give mad props to Joe3451 for coming up with this fix.
When I installed the powered harness with my HID's, that resolved the issue that everyone was experiencing with their lights not coming up on the first turn of the stalk. However, a new issue shortly arose where my lights would not go down sometimes when I turned them off. It was a 50/50 shot as to what they would do. Now, with the addition of the side marker lamp and bulb that Joe suggested, everything is working just like stock. No turning on the high beams or turning the stalk twice. Once on, once off, and everything works! I'm as giddy as a school girl upon the first sign that she's growing breast!
Im glad it worked for you, its a simple fix for all you OCDers or if you are as **** about things as me. Im looking forward to your post with the pics.
I attempted the 'HID flicker/headlight door close fix' combo this morning and was successful! Thanks to Radio Flyer and Joe for their discoveries. I made a quick diagram of how to wire in the 'combo' for those who are still on the fence with this mod.
BTW, I used a red bulb in the socket instead of the standard white because i figured it would be dimmer and less noticeable. The total cost of the capacitors, bulb, and socket was less than $15.