windows won't go up!!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Ft Lauderdale FL
windows won't go up!!!!
Just got my 2000 coupe back on the road after new clutch, new intake, new shocks and a few other goodies done. Car was laid up a few months while work was done SLOOOOWLY! On the drive home, windows would not go up. 
Door locks also did not respond. 
Fuses checked out ok. DIC says no comunication with door modules.
What could cause lack of comunication?
Thanks,
Ray
Door locks also did not respond. Fuses checked out ok. DIC says no comunication with door modules. What could cause lack of comunication?
Thanks,
Ray
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Bakersfield Ca
Check this out: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1606865&page=6
You could have a problem with the connectors inside the door jamb boot.
You could have a problem with the connectors inside the door jamb boot.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 53
From: Warrington Pa.
had the same problem and cleaned the contacts on the plug and everything is working. This is the plug inside the door pillar that you need to pull out. First pull the accordion tube from the door and door pillar then fish the plug out. Clean both ends with some contact cleaner and plug back together. Bill
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Bakersfield Ca
Look carefully at those connector pins. Look for any signs of wear or burn marks. Get some contact cleaner from Radio Shack and spray both sides of the connectors. Wiggle everything real good while trying the windows. Are you sure you checked the correct fuse? Pull the door panel off and remove, clean and re-insert the plugs into the door control module. Other than that, it sounds like your door control module may be bad. You guys got any other ideas?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 9
From: Eddy Texas
G201 grounds the DS door. G202 grounds the PS door. They are located at the base of the A-pillars, behind the kick panel trims for their respective doors. Also fuses 30 & 31 are PS, 33 & 34 are DS. Odd that fuses or modules would go bad for BOTH doors. Post all of your DIC codes if there are any.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Must admit with no comms I'd have suggested the door jamb connector too. If thats not the culprit my guess would be if it was sitting idle for a while and then the problems started is a sticky relay in the door control module.
You could try the "percussion technnique". A sharp rap on the door at the lower part of the panel. It may be enough to unstick the module. If that fails I'd pull the door panel and try more direct vibration of the module. Even if that clears it, that may only be a temporary fix.
The grounds could also be the problem so worth a check
If not I'd say probably a relay change (which needs a strip down as per Bakersfields instructions) or a door module change.
Of interest, us Vert owners have less of these problems because the windows get exercised every time you drop the top
You could try the "percussion technnique". A sharp rap on the door at the lower part of the panel. It may be enough to unstick the module. If that fails I'd pull the door panel and try more direct vibration of the module. Even if that clears it, that may only be a temporary fix.
The grounds could also be the problem so worth a check
If not I'd say probably a relay change (which needs a strip down as per Bakersfields instructions) or a door module change.
Of interest, us Vert owners have less of these problems because the windows get exercised every time you drop the top
Last edited by DeeGee; May 15, 2008 at 12:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Ft Lauderdale FL
Well,
Dee-I tried a new module with new relays, no luck. Power is getting to the module. Tried the percusion technique, also no luck. But figured if the door locks aren't working either, it can't be 2 stuck motors.
VDawg-Niether door controller works anything, well, Oddly, the unlock button will unlock it's door, not the other. But niether windows or locking of doors works.
c5- grounds and fuses checked, will post codes tomorrow.
I was thinking...I did instal a CLB. Is there anything I might have accidentally disconnected?
Thanks,
Ray
Dee-I tried a new module with new relays, no luck. Power is getting to the module. Tried the percusion technique, also no luck. But figured if the door locks aren't working either, it can't be 2 stuck motors.
VDawg-Niether door controller works anything, well, Oddly, the unlock button will unlock it's door, not the other. But niether windows or locking of doors works.
c5- grounds and fuses checked, will post codes tomorrow.
I was thinking...I did instal a CLB. Is there anything I might have accidentally disconnected?
Thanks,
Ray
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 1
From: Ft Lauderdale FL
PROBLEM FOUND!!!! 
I checked the area under the passenger footwell (fusebox area) to see if anything looked disconected, as I had played with the fusebox during my column lock situation. The problem was a connector next to the module to the left of the fuse box. In my car (2000 coupe) there are 2 gray and white plugs to the immediate left of said module. They aren't electrically connected to anything, they attach via a clip to a spot next to the module. I noticed the gray cap on one of them was not completely snapped down tight. I snapped it down and whoptee-frigin-doo, the windows and locks work again!
I hope this can help someone else in the future.
Ray
I checked the area under the passenger footwell (fusebox area) to see if anything looked disconected, as I had played with the fusebox during my column lock situation. The problem was a connector next to the module to the left of the fuse box. In my car (2000 coupe) there are 2 gray and white plugs to the immediate left of said module. They aren't electrically connected to anything, they attach via a clip to a spot next to the module. I noticed the gray cap on one of them was not completely snapped down tight. I snapped it down and whoptee-frigin-doo, the windows and locks work again!
I hope this can help someone else in the future.Ray
Great news Ray!!! Thanks for sharing the solution. 