The bright light on the driver side of my C5 Coupe points to the trees. I have had it looked at by two different shops and all that has happened is it cost me $$. Any advise on getting it pointed back to the road?

 

Yeah, fix it your self. If your lights are not damaged and you mean your "bright light" is your head light (or high beams) then adjust them your self. Adjusting them will move both the low and high beams together. If your lights are busted then purchase new assembly though one of our support vendors like GM parts direct and install yourself.

For adjusting:

Park your car 10 ft or so in front of a wall or garage doors. Put your headlights in the upright position (but lights are still off) and remove the 3 screws (if I remember all of this correctly – I did this 3 years ago) with a Phillips head screwdriver and remove cover. Don’t drop screws – very hard to find. You will see two screws that you can adjust with a star point driver (available at any auto parts store – just ask them which size you need to adjust gm headlights and save your receipt if they are wrong). Most large tool kits have one included – I had two diff. sizes.

One screw will be at the outside of the head light assembly (for left to right adjustments) and the other is at the bottom (if I remember correctly) for up and down adjustments. Now turn lights on (day time works fine since you are so close to the door and allows you to see the adjustment screws) adjust them to what you think is right – usually a couple of turns will do it. Adjust both lights evenly on the door/wall - back down the drive and watch the position of the lights – if they are out of whack then adjust them again. If you like the new position; then replace covers and screws and test headlights at night (or you could leave off the covers until you know you like the adjustment and replace cover later). If you don’t get bright lighted and you’re happy with the position then great otherwise go back to the garage and adjust again if needed. Just remember that one twist of the adjusting screws can move the light quit bit. Now enjoy the extra cash you saved! If I missed anything then I’m sure others will correct me (don’t you love the forum!).

If your lights are busted then adjusting may not help. I would also look into the aftermarket HID kit – they cost $$ but they are very bright and you will have a good reason to tell your significant other for purchasing new HID headlights. Don’t forget to throw in the "safety" reason - which is so true.

 

If the high and low beam seem way out of whack (one is higher than the other) check to make sure each bulb is seated properly. It's pretty easy to put one in just a hair away from flush with the housing, and if it's off just a little bit it will make a significant difference in projection accuracy.

 

That is what popped into my head when I read this,,that the bulb may not have been twisted in and properly seated which could send the light off in a cockeyed direction. Let us know if that was it,,just curious

 

Good write up from Jeep

Hers one I posted a while ago

Aiming your Head Lights

Preparation:

Prepare the aiming area. You can use the garage wall providing its at least 25’ from the car and the ground is level.

Mark some calibration lines using chalk or masking tape:
Find the center of the headlight and measure the distance to the ground. Mark a horizontal line on the surface (garage door or wall) using masking tape at the same distance from the ground.
Stick a piece of tape in the center of the windscreen and another on the rear glass to use as reference marks.
Line these up from behind the car and use them to mark the centerline of the car on the wall.
Measure the distance between the center of both headlight lenses and use this to measure from the center point you just marked on the surface.
Make sure the tire pressures are correct and the tank is full or the calibration may be out. Park the vehicle square with the aiming surface. Close the doors and rock the car to stabilise the suspension.

Adjustment

Horizontal and vertical aiming is done by moving the adjusting screws which moves the headlamp capsule in relation to the headlamp frame. The horizontal adjustment screw is located on the inboard side of each of the headlight assemblies and covered by a plug. The vertical adjustment screw is located on the inboard side of each of the headlight assemblies below the lower edge of the headlamp bezel. Its a long golden rod. I think it’s a #15 torx.



Raise the hood.
Raise the headlamps.
Remove the headlamp adjustment screw plug from the headlamp bezel. Reach under the headlamp bezel and push out the plug from behind.
Turn ON the low beam lamps. Block the light from the passenger lamp to allow you to adjust the drivers lamp. Don’t cover the headlight or it may get too hot.
Inspect the horizontal aim. Make the adjustments with reference to the lines and numbers on the aiming chart below
Adjust the aim using the horizontal adjusting screw, to align the break point (3) of the high intensity zone to the headlamp vertical centerline (1), within the range of 38 mm (1.5 in) to the left (5) of the lamp vertical centerline (1), to 38 mm (1.5 in) to the right (4) of the lamp vertical centerline (1) on the aiming screen.



Inspect the vertical aim.

Adjust the aim using the vertical adjusting screw, to align the upper edge of the beam horizontal cut off line 114 mm (4.5 in) below (7) the headlamp horizontal centerline (2), within the range of 76 mm (3 in) below (8) the lamp horizontal centerline (2), to 191 mm (7.5 in) below (6) the lamp horizontal centerline (2) on the aiming screen.

Install the headlamp adjustment screw plug. Push to secure.
Turn OFF the headlamps.
Lower the hood.

Your light pattern should look roughly like this when you’re done.



Thanks to Junkman for his pics

 

Great thread. I pulled the car out about 7 feet from the wall. Turned the low beam on. Marked the wall with tape and then with a # 7 metric socket and extension turned the vertical star head counter clock wise to go up.The star head behind the high beam is lateral and the one behind the low beam is vertical. My lights were projecting low. I did not have to take off the plastic protector. Took about 5 minuets. I have marked the floor for distance and left the tape on the wall in case I have to do further adjustment. Thank you for the heads up!!!

 

I believe that the manual states that your car should be 25 ft. from the wall when adjusting the headlights.

 

not sure about that, but it would seem that being that far from a wall would spread the beam out way too much to create any kind of "focal" point to adjust to. just my opinion.

 

When I installed my ACA HID's I was 25ft from the garage and I had an extremely sharp cut-off line to align with.

 

Okay, I will check it at 25 ft. I can use all the help I can get. Thanks.

 

Tag.

 

Great write up, and thanks for he name of the tool to adjust them... Question, what happens when you strip out the Torqes center on the adjusting rod, do they sell a tool that fits the outer STAR rod, not inner Torge hole.. Both of my center Torqe are stripped, but the star outer is fine, I'm looking for anything that will grab the outer dia. of the rod.. Another member said he "dremeled a straight line so a flate head screw driver can adjust it now", I can do that but that means taking out the headlight assembly (I don't really want to do that). Any help would be great.

 

Try a 1/4" six point socket. I think that's what I used when I did mine.

 

Thanks for the help. I went to a few other sites and got no results. Guess you're the best.

 

Be very careful when making adjustments, the "golden" rods are fragile and easily broken; and it's very difficult (or impossible) to find replacements.

Search this site for (headlight adjustment) or (golden rods) for more info.