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Brakes dragging

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Old May 29, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #1  
Art Smart's Avatar
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From: Bellevue Wa
Default Brakes dragging

Usually when I come to a stop and release the brakes I can feel the brakes release and the car roll just a little. Sometimes the brakes will stay slightly engaged and the car will not roll. When I do start up, it's fine, not like the brakes are hard on.

In stop and go traffic it's much more noticeable, sometimes the brakes are dragging enough I can smell them heating up.

Twice I've had the car into the dealer, they can't find anything wrong. In an unrelated issue they replaced the ASB sensor, system ($1000).

Any ideas what the problem might be? I've always been impressed with the knowledge and expertise the members of this forum have.

Thanks
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Old May 29, 2008 | 08:25 PM
  #2  
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This happened to me after I bought my car.

I first noticed my gas mileage was taking a very noticeable downward spin. (I run all the time with my DIC set to show the instant fuel mileage).

Right after I bought the car, I put new pads on all four corners and resurfaced my rotors. This problem started about three weeks later.

To make a very long story short, I finally found out the douche bag I bought my car from (and the original owner) had put POWER STEERING FLUID in the brake fluid reservoir. It completely trashed my entire braking system. That meant new master cylinder, brake booster, ABS unit, brake lines, calipers, rotors, pads... everything. Final bill was just shy of $2k and that was buying the booster and master cylinder out of a rear-end crashed car.

I hope this isn't the problem you're having, but mine started exactly as you are describing.. brakes were dragging coming up to a stop light - finally got so bad the car would stop itself. Obviously I quit driving it and thats when I discovered what had happened. So check your brake fluid and make sure its CLEAR, not GREEN.

The other cause for this (and my original hope for my car) was just bad brake lines. I've heard plenty of rumors that the factory lines on C5 Z's aren't the greatest. You can pick up a new set of steel braided lines for around $150 shipped and install them yourself in less than an hour. While you've got the calipers off to swap out the lines, you might also check them - in my case, the pistons had gone to crap because of the power steering fluid and they weren't ever releasing completely, thus the drag. If the pistons in your calipers look fine, be thankful this isn't your problem!

And lastly, whatever you do, don't let this go on for too long without figuring out the problem or you'll completely trash your rotors. In my case since the problem was already as bad as it was when I got the car, it just gave me an excuse to upgrade to a nice slotted set.

Best of luck. Do keep us posted on what you find out.
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Old May 29, 2008 | 08:50 PM
  #3  
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You may not have anything wrong. The brake pads will not necessarily stop touching the rotors when you take your foot off the brake pedal. There is nothing pushing them back other than rotor run out when the car is moving. In stop and go driving you probably will smell the brake pads as they will heat up when you are constantly stepping on the brake. By the way are you a brake tapper? A number of people tap the brake subconciously while driving. Have somebody ride with you and watch what you do when driving in traffic.

Bill
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:09 PM
  #4  
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From: Foresters Falls(near Ottawa) Ont
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Any chance it's something as simple as the caliper slide pins needing cleaning and lubrication?

RonJ ...
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:33 PM
  #5  
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From: Sierra Madre California
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Originally Posted by RonJ
Any chance it's something as simple as the caliper slide pins needing cleaning and lubrication?

RonJ ...
Or the pistons are sticking in their bores. If you jack up your car, you should be able to spin each tire fairly easily. Of course make sure it is in neutral and the parking brake is off.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 06:56 AM
  #6  
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From: LEBANON PA.
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Hi There,
with Bill Dearborn I don't believe you have problem.You could check the fluid in the master cylinder.Put a drop light on the pass. side of the m/c & standing on the drivers side look at the fluid it should be nice & clear.Tip: do not remove the cap.(lets in moisture) Look for any leakage.If you should have fluid discoloration, bleed the entire brake system. The bleeding sequence is rr,lf,lr,rf
Any abs codes being displayed?
robsc501

Last edited by robsc501; May 30, 2008 at 07:15 AM.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 08:06 AM
  #7  
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Default

Originally Posted by RonJ
Any chance it's something as simple as the caliper slide pins needing cleaning and lubrication?

RonJ ...

Use High Temp grease.
Clean the pins well and perhaps hit them wilt a little emory cloth before lubrication. Works well.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 10:34 AM
  #8  
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Check to make sure the e-brake is not hanging up,I had that happen on my truck once and burn up a set of rear drums.
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Old May 30, 2008 | 01:40 PM
  #9  
Art Smart's Avatar
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From: Bellevue Wa
Default

Thanks for all of the advice. I don't have time this weekend to check and do all of the suggestions. I'll start on some of the easier ones first and update you next week.

This forum is GREAT !!!
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Old May 30, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #10  
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BrianWe
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From: Torrance CA
Default

Originally Posted by mikes04z
This happened to me after I bought my car.

I first noticed my gas mileage was taking a very noticeable downward spin. (I run all the time with my DIC set to show the instant fuel mileage).

Right after I bought the car, I put new pads on all four corners and resurfaced my rotors. This problem started about three weeks later.

To make a very long story short, I finally found out the douche bag I bought my car from (and the original owner) had put POWER STEERING FLUID in the brake fluid reservoir. It completely trashed my entire braking system. That meant new master cylinder, brake booster, ABS unit, brake lines, calipers, rotors, pads... everything. Final bill was just shy of $2k and that was buying the booster and master cylinder out of a rear-end crashed car.

I hope this isn't the problem you're having, but mine started exactly as you are describing.. brakes were dragging coming up to a stop light - finally got so bad the car would stop itself. Obviously I quit driving it and thats when I discovered what had happened. So check your brake fluid and make sure its CLEAR, not GREEN.

The other cause for this (and my original hope for my car) was just bad brake lines. I've heard plenty of rumors that the factory lines on C5 Z's aren't the greatest. You can pick up a new set of steel braided lines for around $150 shipped and install them yourself in less than an hour. While you've got the calipers off to swap out the lines, you might also check them - in my case, the pistons had gone to crap because of the power steering fluid and they weren't ever releasing completely, thus the drag. If the pistons in your calipers look fine, be thankful this isn't your problem!

And lastly, whatever you do, don't let this go on for too long without figuring out the problem or you'll completely trash your rotors. In my case since the problem was already as bad as it was when I got the car, it just gave me an excuse to upgrade to a nice slotted set.

Best of luck. Do keep us posted on what you find out.
Unfortunately, I had the same problem with my car, only it was a brake shop which screwed up big time. Sticky caliper pin is a more likey problem though.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #11  
Art Smart's Avatar
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From: Bellevue Wa
Default

Here's the answer to the brakes not totally releasing and dragging a little. The Vacuum Brake Booster needs to be replaced. Chevrolet put out a service bulletin in 2001. Twice I went to one of my local Chevrolet dealers and told them about the problem. They checked the brake system and always said there was no problem. This all started 19months ago.

A few days ago I stopped at another dealer, they were smart enough to check for a Chevrolet Service Bulletin, hence the suggested repair of replacing the Vacuum Brake Booster.

I wish the first dealer had done that 19 months ago !!!!!!

I haven't done the repair yet.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
Reply

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