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I heard there were issues with jacking up the C5. The question is...Can I jack the car up high enough to remove one tire at a time, without twisting the body too much or will this cause damage? I want to paint my calipers before the new wheel go on....Thanks, Tony
Your thinking of the C4. The C4 has a unibody chassis, the C5 has a solid chassis. You can jack it up high enough to remove both tires/wheels off on one side.
Very much so. The body is just as strong on a Vert; in fact the windscreen rail is the roll bar.
Jack away to your hearts content. the only issue is use jacking pucks or fit rocker rails as the rocker panels will split if you put any pressure on them.
I do just like that video shows and then jack it high enough to remove both wheels on that side. Don't worry about it. The doors still close perfectly when you do this so the chassis isn't twisting.
I'll also just stick the jack under the rear sub-frame as shown in location 1 in that jacking picture and jack until the whole rear-end is off the ground. No big deal there either. I don't jack in the middle of the sub-frame. I tried it once and watched the sub-frame and I swear I could see it begin to flex as I jacked.
I know about the importance of using those jacking pucks... BUT:
The floor jack I found seems to have a "built-in" pad within the jacking cup itself that sticks up and provies a 4-inch across textured rubber jacking surface. So it's almost like my jack has a built-in jacking puck... just without the eyebolt. There is no way for the metal portion of the jack's cup to contact the car's body because the rubber pad is really thick.
Can I just forgo the pucks altogether, since my jack seems to be pre-equipped with a suitable lifting pad?
I know about the importance of using those jacking pucks... BUT:
The floor jack I found seems to have a "built-in" pad within the jacking cup itself that sticks up and provies a 4-inch across textured rubber jacking surface. So it's almost like my jack has a built-in jacking puck... just without the eyebolt. There is no way for the metal portion of the jack's cup to contact the car's body because the rubber pad is really thick.
Can I just forgo the pucks altogether, since my jack seems to be pre-equipped with a suitable lifting pad?
The main thing is to spread out the load. The rocker rails seem to do that and they are just screwed in place. The pucks go into the receptacle in the metal frame rail so they dont put pressure on the SMC of the rocker panel. I think its spot pressure that does the damage.
....and always use jack stands for added safety when working on the car. Never rely on a jack alone. Even the best of jacks has been known to fail at times.
Good luck with the calipers.
Last edited by GrayC5; Jun 1, 2008 at 08:21 PM.
Reason: spelling
That jack would be just fine at the front. Go in at the back of the fender and make sure you go far enough to get past the fender and to the frame. Just jack it high enough there to do both calipers on that side.
At the rear, the jacking cutout in the rocker is just slightly larger than the size of a hockey puck so a 4" pad on the jack is too big in diameter to fit. So, you'd be jacking on the rocker itself which is not a good thing.