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electrical problem...xmas lights!

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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 11:49 PM
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Default electrical problem...xmas lights!

I just started my car, and I have reduced engine power displayed, the fuel, oil pressure and temperature gauge are not working, the radio is dead, windows are dead, every warning light on the dash is lit up, headlights no longer automatically come up, but the car seems to run fine, though I'm getting a low fuel warning as well (plenty of gas in it). Also, the fob is not working, cannot set the alarm or trigger the trunk with it.

Any ideas? I have a trip to take in two days and I really don't want to drive for a few hours like this! Thanks!!
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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I suggest you look in the driver's door jam area, inside of the accordian tube there for a possible shorting wire to the frame. Bill Curlee has posted many times regarding this and it sounds like your malfunctions. Have you pulled the codes yet? Is there any water on your BCM from plugged up udders?
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:15 AM
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Default issues

Haven't had any rain out here for months, and I cleaned the udders about 5 months back, so I think that is ok. I did not check the door jam area yet....unfortunately it's dark and I have no garage now to pull in and look, but first thing tomorrow I will. I did not pull the codes, but a good idea, I'll do them now and see if anything shows up!
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:29 AM
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I had the same problem Pull back the accordion tube from the door and the door pillar. Fish out the wire bundle from the door pillar. Unhook the plug, it's blue. make sure the contacts are clean then plug it back and give it a try. If the car is ok clear all codes. You will most likely get code in these sections

A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module,
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module,
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning,
80-Radio - Radio Not Found
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation

Most common codes for each of the above sections
B1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

Last edited by Bill Vett; Jun 20, 2008 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
I suggest you look in the driver's door jam area, inside of the accordian tube there for a possible shorting wire to the frame. Bill Curlee has posted many times regarding this and it sounds like your malfunctions. Have you pulled the codes yet? Is there any water on your BCM from plugged up udders?
I agree with the wiring in the drivers door. Had this issue last year, easy fix. Good luck with it.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:42 AM
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Default now won't start

Any chance the door wiring will cause the car to not start? Just tried to pull codes, which I was unable to get, and the car now will not start. I will try the wiring in the door now though.

Just tried the blue plug....unplugged it and plugged it back in...every code has No Comm and car still won't start. Guess it's going to go be towed to the stealer tomorrow

Last edited by z28flash; Jun 20, 2008 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:57 AM
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Charge the battery, if there was a short it will drain your battery. Thats what happened to me. The battery went dead in less than 15 minutes!

Does this look like what you go when the codes were run???
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module,
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module,
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning,
80-Radio - Radio Not Found
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
Most common codes for each of the above sections
B1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction

Last edited by Bill Vett; Jun 20, 2008 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 12:59 AM
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Hang in there man, it'll get figured out. Wish i could help more. Try posting this in the Tech section too, couldn't hurt.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:04 AM
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You should fill out your profile, if someone in your area has had the problem you could get together to fix it.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Vett
Charge the battery, if there was a short it will drain your battery. Thats what happened to me. The battery went dead in less than 15 minutes!

Does this look like what you go when the codes were run???
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module,
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module,
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning,
80-Radio - Radio Not Found
B0-RFA - Remote Function Actuation
Most common codes for each of the above sections
B1016 Loss of Communications with PCM
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
Actually each code simply said: no comm. There were no individual codes showing. I have a battery tender, but not here, and can't get it now. I agree it could just be a battery issue, but I can't tell, though I might have a meter to check that with.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:17 AM
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Next thing I'd try is the battery. With so many random faults, all of which are on seperate circuits/fuses I'd see that as the comon theme. If its an old one it may be time to change it anyway. If its relatively new get an on-load check at Autozone.

Is it the OEM AC Delco? What year? You sure it hasn't leaked? When you pull it check the tray for signs of acid.

Also, fill out your profile. It helps the guys to give specific advice.

Last edited by DeeGee; Jun 20, 2008 at 01:19 AM.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:26 AM
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Battery cables loose?
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:26 AM
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Battery is an red top Optimum.....but I have only had the car for 1 1/2 years, and have no idea when the battery was installed. The tow truck is coming in tomorrow, so I'll probably let the dealer figure it out. It was running fine, then just after dinner when I started it all the errors came up, but now even the internal relays do not click when the key is turned. Since it's 10:30pm now, I can't do too much work on it, so figure the towing is covered by insurance, and then I'll figure the stealer will gladly take my money, lol!! If it's too much, maybe I'll just persuade them to get me into a C6....

Thanks for all the tips....it's probably something simple, but without the time and tools I can't check it out very easily. I did update my profile, I live in San Diego in case it doesn't show up.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by z28flash
Battery is an red top Optimum.....but I have only had the car for 1 1/2 years, and have no idea when the battery was installed. The tow truck is coming in tomorrow, so I'll probably let the dealer figure it out. It was running fine, then just after dinner when I started it all the errors came up, but now even the internal relays do not click when the key is turned. Since it's 10:30pm now, I can't do too much work on it, so figure the towing is covered by insurance, and then I'll figure the stealer will gladly take my money, lol!! If it's too much, maybe I'll just persuade them to get me into a C6....

Thanks for all the tips....it's probably something simple, but without the time and tools I can't check it out very easily. I did update my profile, I live in San Diego in case it doesn't show up.
It may be too late but the Red Top has a 3 year guarantee. A straight swap would be worth trying before a dealer gives you a large bill for putting a new AC Delco in there.

If it is that, then you need to find why it failed or it'll do it again. Red Tops dont like being discharged. Theres a constant drain from a C5. If the car is not used much its best to put it on a Battery Tender. Bill Curlee posted a great How To in C5 Tech. It shows how to identify a drain. Seat switches is a common cause.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 01:37 AM
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I just checked the battery with my voltage meter. Putting out 12.17 volts, so I would think that is sufficient. Another weird thing is that the mirror, door locks, etc. buttons on each door are still back lit, they are not going out. However, the door lock/window buttons do not work, but the mirror buttons do.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 05:50 AM
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Hi There,
with Dee Gee have the battery load tested. 12+ volts is a good static charge ,but could be dropping to 9v under start conditions.
robsc501
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 09:30 AM
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Another thing that Bill Curlee has found was defective ignition switch issues with burned contacts.
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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Hi there 3830,
Good point & a easy one to check out and you can repair it your self.
robsc501
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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when I installed my headers on my 99 trans am (slp long tubes) they actually melted the wiring harness and I had the same issues, flashing lights, things not working until eventually it wouldn't start. Had to do wiring job, also might be the alternator, not sure but I think all of your accessories run off your alternator, if its not working correctly that could be the reason for things not working/car not starting after battery drained without being charged
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Old Jun 20, 2008 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
I suggest you look in the driver's door jam area, inside of the accordian tube there for a possible shorting wire to the frame. Bill Curlee has posted many times regarding this and it sounds like your malfunctions. Have you pulled the codes yet? Is there any water on your BCM from plugged up udders?
mine does thje same thing from time to time, but I've yet to find the actual wire prob, usually opening the door and wiggling the wires, then closing it and off we go again till next time.... also, mine seems to act up that way when the battery is just about toast
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