When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've seen posts where members have made battery den covers out of this Lexan material for their vettes. I got a sheet at Home Depot with the idea of making fenderwell covers for inside eng comp, something like the vette catalogs sell in stainless stl. And then painting them body color to match rest of pcs in eng comp, & putting them in place with velco strips so they could be removed to work on engine.
How do you cut this stuff, sheet I bought is .093" thick & there was a strange looking knife in same area marked "for cutting Lexan" But I will have to make some short radius curves to look proper. Worker at Home D said the stuff cracks easily, but nobody on forum making the battery den cover said anything about it cracking easily. Does it? How did you make the curves for the battery comp cover?
At first I thought you said .93" I said to myself "what is he building, a bullet proof tellers wondow?" (that would be really really expensive lexan)
I'm not a big fan of cutting plexi or lexan with that knife thing. I imagine it works ok for a straight cut, but I've had it break crooked the few of the times Ive tried it.
I would outline (and cut) it with all the straight edges I could, then use something like a dremmel or one of those rotozip things to do the curves. Either read the manual or experiment on scrap to find the right speed to set it at to do the cuts nice and clean.
At first I thought you said .93" I said to myself "what is he building, a bullet proof tellers wondow?" (that would be really really expensive lexan)
I'm not a big fan of cutting plexi or lexan with that knife thing. I imagine it works ok for a straight cut, but I've had it break crooked the few of the times Ive tried it.
I would outline (and cut) it with all the straight edges I could, then use something like a dremmel or one of those rotozip things to do the curves. Either read the manual or experiment on scrap to find the right speed to set it at to do the cuts nice and clean.
Thanks for reply. That is kinda what I thought, I have Dremel, so will try that after I get it close to shape I need.
I've seen posts where members have made battery den covers out of this Lexan material for their vettes. I got a sheet at Home Depot with the idea of making fenderwell covers for inside eng comp, something like the vette catalogs sell in stainless stl. And then painting them body color to match rest of pcs in eng comp, & putting them in place with velco strips so they could be removed to work on engine.
How do you cut this stuff, sheet I bought is .093" thick & there was a strange looking knife in same area marked "for cutting Lexan" But I will have to make some short radius curves to look proper. Worker at Home D said the stuff cracks easily, but nobody on forum making the battery den cover said anything about it cracking easily. Does it? How did you make the curves for the battery comp cover?
Thanks
Jack
Do you know anyone with a bench mounted parallel arm jig saw?
Actually, I think the knife bit works if you are sure to score it good on both sides, but do it without taking off the protective covering first (or is that part obvious?).
With the proper blade a regular hand held jig saw should work ok too - just use a slow blade speed to keep heat down and take your time.
Hi There,
Never had any problems with a jig saw. As others have said remove the film coating, slow speed, stop for awhile & let the blade cool or spray the blade with water from a windex bottle. If the blade is used put in a new one.Patience is the key.
robsc501
Worker at HD needs to move back to the plumbing dept.
Thats a cool response!! I thought this stuff was supposed to be tough, they use it in hurricane areas to replace windows, so I should have known this guy was just hired from Wally World.
Thanks
Jack
Hi There,
Never had any problems with a jig saw. As others have said remove the film coating, slow speed, stop for awhile & let the blade cool or spray the blade with water from a windex bottle. If the blade is used put in a new one.Patience is the key.
robsc501
Thanks for the reply, I have a jig saw, now to get couple of new fine tooth blades. Wonder would one of those little table top scroll saws work? Don't know if the $20 one's have adjustable speeds tho.
Thanks
Jack
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Originally Posted by Jistari
I would outline (and cut) it with all the straight edges I could, then use something like a dremmel or one of those rotozip things to do the curves. Either read the manual or experiment on scrap to find the right speed to set it at to do the cuts nice and clean.
A dremel on low speed and patience should do a good job on those curves.
Plexiglas is a hard material and can crack but I have cut it with a metal sheer. It also resists scratching.
Lexan is a softer material and will scratch- you can cut it with a jigsaw, rotozip, coping saw, etc. just go slow. Edge cleanup with a fine tooth file followed by sandpaper. If you want a super smooth edge go with wet sanding or acetone wipe.
You can bend Lexan - find a local sheet metal shop and talk nice and they may put it in their brake.
Finally, Lexan is usually 3 to 4 times the cost of Plexiglas.
Plexiglas is a hard material and can crack but I have cut it with a metal sheer. It also resists scratching.
Lexan is a softer material and will scratch- you can cut it with a jigsaw, rotozip, coping saw, etc. just go slow. Edge cleanup with a fine tooth file followed by sandpaper. If you want a super smooth edge go with wet sanding or acetone wipe.
You can bend Lexan - find a local sheet metal shop and talk nice and they may put it in their brake.
Finally, Lexan is usually 3 to 4 times the cost of Plexiglas.
and finally, when applying the paint, paint the UNDERSIDE , 2-3 light dust coats, no clear/top coat needed, will look like new money
Here is a pic of mine. I did just what you are wanting to do. It looks great when finished. I used a rotozip to rough cut mine and then a bench sander to get the exact size. If you are going to use a jigsaw go with a more coarse blade as a fine blade will load up quicker but go slow. Hope it turns out for you.
A dremel on low speed and patience should do a good job on those curves.
Low speed is essentially to using a dremel to cut plastics, otherwise the plastic melts behind the cut and needs to be cut again
Jig will work for most applications.
Ideally, the best tool IMO would be a table scroll saw with a wrap-around blade for multi directional cutting. They're a little more expensive than jigs but are much more precise and don't require clamping.
Here is a pic of mine. I did just what you are wanting to do. It looks great when finished. I used a rotozip to rough cut mine and then a bench sander to get the exact size. If you are going to use a jigsaw go with a more coarse blade as a fine blade will load up quicker but go slow. Hope it turns out for you.
Greg
Yep, your fenderwell covers are exactly what I am trying to do. Looks great on your TR car, thnx for posting the pic. I'll do the same when I am done w/this project.
and finally, when applying the paint, paint the UNDERSIDE , 2-3 light dust coats, no clear/top coat needed, will look like new money
I don't think that will work in this case. I am painting them Candy Apple Red Metallic & this paint uses a white primer to make the metallic come out. Without it & just painting on the Lexan, I think it would end up being way to dark. See the pic of my other pcs I have already painted. Pieces match almost exactly the magnetic red factory color.