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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 11:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
...(snip)...My point was if you take a look at the design of the posts on the Optimas, theres a flange that would break off first before the case would be compromised...(snip)...
Possible, if normal or perpendicular stress to the face of the flange were the only force to come into play here. But, what happens when shear stress is added to the to the equation? Shear stress also occurs when torquing the terminal bolts and has to be taken into consideration.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #22  
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Wouldn't recommend the Optima Yellow Top to be honest. I've had 3 and they are a pain in the ****. Heavy, and don't hold a charge for long. I'm going to be looking at a Braille 2015 very soon.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:32 AM
  #23  
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For the OP

You can see the differing opinions on which one to buy. If you look at every comment theres a reason why most of those batteries failed and its generally related to the car or its use. Apart from the early AC Delcos I suspect theres not an issue with the batteries themselves.

To try to return to your original question, any of the latest batteries will work for you. But...........

When you fit it dont over tighten the battery leads. Check the torque settings in the link I posted earlier.

If its not a DD, a Red Top would not be a good choice without getting a battery tender. Any of the others would be OK but I'd still get a tender as theres a constant drain from the electrics.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GrayC5
Possible, if normal or perpendicular stress to the face of the flange were the only force to come into play here. But, what happens when shear stress is added to the to the equation? Shear stress also occurs when torquing the terminal bolts and has to be taken into consideration.
Or Gorilla stress
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DeeGee
Or Gorilla stress
Yes, I've seen that done!
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 02:27 AM
  #26  
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Almost got an optima when I replaced my battery almost two years ago but instead went with an Exide Orbital (Purple Haze).

So far, so good.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 05:52 AM
  #27  
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Thanks everyone. I have a tender that I used on my old vette as I was tired of replacing batteries every 18 months.

Will use it on the new one.

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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 08:40 AM
  #28  
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DITTO 4 YEAR FREE REPLACEMENT

Originally Posted by c5BlackBeauty
Sears Platnium. Pricey but if she is in for long storage time, like mine is, then I highly recommend.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 08:57 AM
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Interstate gets my vote!
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #30  
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I had very good luck with an Optima Red Top - 6.5 years with no problems. I did keep it hooked up to a Battery Tender Plus.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bestvettever
Hi, You've asked the question that brings out the controversary every time. Optima vs delco vs all the other brands. I like AC Delco, because I've never had one that did anything unusual other than what it was supposed to, and right now they have the best warranty in the business. That being said there were some delco's made for the early c5's that had a leak problem, that problem was eliminated after the first few model years. The current generation of Delco's have shown to be dependable.
But you should get whatever gives you a good night's sleep. The considerations you should look at are as follows.
1, Adequate Capacity
2, Sealed so as not to outgas and create corosion.
3, Fits Right
4, Good Warranty.
5, Fresh Date of Manufacture, and fully charged
6, Good Dealer Support in case of the rare defect.
7, If you are in a hot climate, get a hot climate model.
There are many that fit the above criteria, but I can not emphasize enough, if the car sits more than a few days at a time, get and use a proper battery maintainer, that is able to handle whatever battery you get.
Good Luck.
EDIT
Any side post battery, with the possible exception of the rare gel battery,(optima is not a gel battery), can leak from the terminal area, if the cables are either tightened to forcefully, and or the cable screw is a few millimeters to long as has happened in the past. If in the case of a to long screw, it either punches through the terminal, or in an effort to tighten the cable properly it is overtightened and cracks the gussets.
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