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I just picked up my car from the dealer. They put new pads and machined the rotors. The breaking sucks, is it because the pads are new and need to bed-in?
I always have felt you need at least 200 miles of gentle braking to seat the pads to the rotors. You will not have maximum braking until the two surfaces are totally flat against each other.
what did you install? I switched from stockers to the gm ceramics and I don't think my car stops as well...its not a big difference but I think there is a difference (it may be between my ears because I keep reading on here that the ceramics don't stop as well )
what did you install? I switched from stockers to the gm ceramics and I don't think my car stops as well...its not a big difference but I think there is a difference (it may be between my ears because I keep reading on here that the ceramics don't stop as well )
I'm not sure what the dealer installed? I'm guessing just stock pads?
I always have felt you need at least 200 miles of gentle braking to seat the pads to the rotors. You will not have maximum braking until the two surfaces are totally flat against each other.
Takes longer than expected to stop. They don't have that inital grab / bite, that I was expecting. Again is this because they are new?
I'm serious my Mini Cooper (non-S) has better bite.
my thought is they are not the same pads that you had. Ceramics will take longer to stop than stock pads. Stock pads will take longer to stop than the Z06 pads. See what kind of pad they installed....
I doubt they bedded the shoes (pads). Go out and take the vehicle up to 30 mph and do a hard stop, and back up to 30 and a hard stop. Do this 20 times. When you hit about 18 you'll start to smell the pad material, that is ok. Bring the vehicle back home after 20 stops and let it cool down. Generally your subdivision will be at 30 mph limit and so it usually works good because there is less traffic. Otherwise do this later on when traffic is thin.
They are now ready to use.
It has nothing to do with the type of pad installed. It is because the pad has not been mated (bedded) to the rotor surface.
I doubt they bedded the shoes (pads). Go out and take the vehicle up to 30 mph and do a hard stop, and back up to 30 and a hard stop. Do this 20 times. When you hit about 18 you'll start to smell the pad material, that is ok. Bring the vehicle back home after 20 stops and let it cool down. Generally your subdivision will be at 30 mph limit and so it usually works good because there is less traffic. Otherwise do this later on when traffic is thin.
They are now ready to use.
It has nothing to do with the type of pad installed. It is because the pad has not been mated (bedded) to the rotor surface.
Thanks I think I'll do this tonight to prepare for the AutoX tomorrow!
I'm not sure what the dealer installed? I'm guessing just stock pads?
I installed ceramic pads six months ago, and noticed the same lack of instant stopping power you mention. Now, they're still the same -- not as instant grab that the stock, organic pads had.
One way for you to tell if they are the same as stock is to notice how dirty, or clean, your wheels are after a week of driving (or day, if you're going to the track). If the wheels are relatively "clean" (no black brake dust), then most likely they are ceramic.
With my previous C4, I used stock AC Delco, Hawk XPs and AC Delco DurStop ceramics. Of them all, the DuraStop's were the superior pad in all applications.
I'm not sure what stock pad is installed on C5s, I would hope Chevy used the DuraStop. That adage... best for the best.
In all the pad applications above, the pads were bedded immediately after installation. That is also the last step in the procedure when following the FSMs.
Why did they machine the rotors? New OEM rotors from NAPA are $ 25 each, which has been discussed here many times. They probably charged you more than that to machine the rotors you had on the car. I also asked about bedding the new pads, and the concensus here from the replies of members was that bedding is only needed for racing type rotors and pads . For regular application rotors and pads, just do some normal driving, but be gentle with the braking action for the first 100 or so miles.BTW, I had drilled and slotted rotors with GM ceramic oads installed on my 03. The braking power is very slightly less, but the lack of brake dust buildup, and the quiet( no sqeeks), and the look of the D&S rotors is OK with me.
when I put new rotors on, I initially had hawk pads installed (hps and hp plus).. they stopped well, but the hp plus was way too loud and they were dusty, so I had the ac delco ceramics put on. The stopping power is noticeably less, but the quietness and lack of the horrid dust buildup is well worth it.
I just picked up my car from the dealer. They put new pads and machined the rotors. The breaking sucks, is it because the pads are new and need to bed-in?
How should I bed the breaks in?
Thanks.
With OEM rotors and pads, I encountered the dreaded pulsating pedal every 6000 miles. After having this happen twice, I switched to PowerSlot rotors and new OEM pads. What a HUGE difference! No "bedding" required and since the slots always keep the pads "fresh", stopping power is ALWAYS as good as it can be. The stock pads are excellent pads; it's just that they tend to create uneven deposit formations on blank rotors - it doesn't matter who makes the blank rotor, the two don't go together very well.
Why did they machine the rotors? New OEM rotors from NAPA are $ 25 each, which has been discussed here many times. They probably charged you more than that to machine the rotors you had on the car. I also asked about bedding the new pads, and the concensus here from the replies of members was that bedding is only needed for racing type rotors and pads . For regular application rotors and pads, just do some normal driving, but be gentle with the braking action for the first 100 or so miles.BTW, I had drilled and slotted rotors with GM ceramic oads installed on my 03. The braking power is very slightly less, but the lack of brake dust buildup, and the quiet( no sqeeks), and the look of the D&S rotors is OK with me.
I think the $25 rotor is CF myth
I checked all the major parts stores including NAPA and could not find rotors for less than $45 ea
I doubt they bedded the shoes (pads). Go out and take the vehicle up to 30 mph and do a hard stop, and back up to 30 and a hard stop. Do this 20 times. When you hit about 18 you'll start to smell the pad material, that is ok. Bring the vehicle back home after 20 stops and let it cool down. Generally your subdivision will be at 30 mph limit and so it usually works good because there is less traffic. Otherwise do this later on when traffic is thin.
They are now ready to use.
It has nothing to do with the type of pad installed. It is because the pad has not been mated (bedded) to the rotor surface.
I did this. But I find the brakes still don't have that immediacy when I press them. I think they stop well, they just don't have that initial bite, I was expecting.
I did this. But I find the brakes still don't have that immediacy when I press them. I think they stop well, they just don't have that initial bite, I was expecting.
Does this mean I have Ceramic brake pads?
probably so... do they state on the receipt what type of pad they installed? can you ask the shop?
Just contact your service facility and ask them what was installed.
I'm not sure what reaction you are looking for with the statement that they are not initially biting. Just from that description I'm not sure I'd want my brakes making an initial grab or bite as pressure is applied, however as more pressure or pedal is applied they should stop you, and stop well.
If you are not getting that... maybe they need to be re-bled. Which the facility that serviced them should do.