Lowering Help needed
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 313
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Lowering Help needed
Im in the process of trying to lower my 03 Z06. I have already lowered the back using longer bolts. Now I am trying to lower the front lower than the stock bushings allow. I have been told you can either cut the bushings or take the bolt out completely. My problem is how to get to the bushing to cut them, and if i decide to how do I get the bolts out? I know the topic of lowering c5s has been covered many times but I haven't really found any information on those two issues. Thanks for the help!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Norman Oklahoma
you can cut the bushings with a sawzall or a cutter made of cable used to cut sprinkler pipe, you can get this at lowes or home depot! to remove them which is what i done to mine you have to take the upper control arm loose and lower shock bolts, pull the lower arm down low enough to remove bolt!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,152
Likes: 1
From: Parkland Florida
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Before I pulled the bolts out all together, I cut the bushings off (just to see how it looked and it wasn't enough) by using a drywall saw and put one foot on the A-Arm holding it down which gave me access to the bushing with the hand saw. It's a very easy cut, you just need the leverage and the A-Arm pushed down. You'll be sitting on the floor and most likely using your left foot (pass side) to bend down the control arm (right foot for Drivers).
Pulling them out does NOT hurt anything, I'm on year 3 and about 20,000 miles withOUT bolts. I just cut out a super thin piece of walmart rubberish doormat and inserted it between the leaf spring and the A-Arm (only because I didn't know what would happen over time with the friction). No squeaks, and no issues at all and BTW...I take corners pretty hard
Good luck...your gonna love the look.
Pulling them out does NOT hurt anything, I'm on year 3 and about 20,000 miles withOUT bolts. I just cut out a super thin piece of walmart rubberish doormat and inserted it between the leaf spring and the A-Arm (only because I didn't know what would happen over time with the friction). No squeaks, and no issues at all and BTW...I take corners pretty hard
Good luck...your gonna love the look.
Last edited by DRKMATTER; Jul 16, 2008 at 08:39 PM.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2006
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From: Fort St John B.C
Curious as well to how the bolts are attached to the control arm.
One says cutting and no bushing at all is fine, another says its bad....personally I would just lower fully on stock and see if its to your liking.
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Team Owner
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From: Miami Beach FL
Banned Scam/Spammer
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From: Fort St John B.C
All I can see is the bushing and it turns with the bolt which is sitting on the control arm, So I take it it's just sitting on the control arm in a 'seat' or something of the like and not physically attached at all.
(I actually have searched a few times and just lowered my car today fully on stock bolts!)
Last edited by clayton1; Jul 16, 2008 at 11:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 313
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Still a little confused on how the bolt comes out, but I guess I will just have to go at it again and figure out. I was already lowered as far as I could go without cutting the bushings or removing the bolts. Does the bolt even attach to the suspension arm or does it just go through the leaf spring?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,179
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL Las Vegas, NV
Still a little confused on how the bolt comes out, but I guess I will just have to go at it again and figure out. I was already lowered as far as I could go without cutting the bushings or removing the bolts. Does the bolt even attach to the suspension arm or does it just go through the leaf spring?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
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Ok I understand now. Thanks for the help. I just couldn't really tell what I was working with but I got it now. Is there really an advantage of using the C6 bolts vs removing the bolts? Will they go as low or close to how low you can go by removing the bolts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,152
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From: Parkland Florida
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
The only advantage is peace of mind...one of these days when I'm feeling ambitious, I'm going to install the C6 bolts but I have a strange feeling that I'll be rolling on coilovers before that happens
"Quick 68"....the great thing about this mod is it can always be un-done. Take out the bolts....( I do suggest the door mat mod or similar) If it just dosen't feel right then put in some C6 bolts instead. AFAIK, the C6 bolts don't have any bushings which is why people who don't want to cut the bushings off their stock bolts use the C6 ones. Make sure to get it aligned after about 100 good miles.
Heel & Toe
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 122
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From: Western Neu Yawk
DANDY Joker, many thanks for that link.
I've just done my 02 Vert, rear only, and it's a LOT better. Not so much gap at the rear tire but still a bit of the rake. BTW, that nut is 21mm. The bolt is as described, 18mm.
I took the car out and drove it 10 miles and it settled nicely. I lost an inch (corresponds to an inch on the bolt/nut on the rear. This allowed me to use the stock bolt.
Thanks again guys,
Jim
I've just done my 02 Vert, rear only, and it's a LOT better. Not so much gap at the rear tire but still a bit of the rake. BTW, that nut is 21mm. The bolt is as described, 18mm.
I took the car out and drove it 10 miles and it settled nicely. I lost an inch (corresponds to an inch on the bolt/nut on the rear. This allowed me to use the stock bolt.
Thanks again guys,
Jim
